copemech

All said to this point, I find it a bit hard to fathom why Neo has not experimented a bit with timing change, as even a minor rotation of the stator plate of 2-3mm can have some benifits in areas such as rduced kickback upon startup, less propensity for stalling, and a smoothing effect! In the balance of quickness and power, it all comes into play!

Inside

Ok, get ready! For starters, I have reduced the frontal area to reduce the drag coefficient(CD) and rounded it a bit in an effort to porvide a more laminar airflow! Steel ball of proper size pounded into place to seal off the potential p***ing unit and other hangy down parts that are much offensive in the installation, and rub the motor case and such. Removal of the prick tube that runs up into the bowl and makes bowl instalation a pain unless you happen to be a rubik's cube guru! Screw that thing! Fooking thing is starting to look like a regular carb now, with the exception ov the totally useless fin off the tail of a '57 Chevy hanging off the back of the bowl! This may yet go! That thing and the whole little p*** jet in the inlet side are just about as useless as a dog with two dangles to me! Although I may re-use that stub with the hose on it to provide the added bowl vent tube. Looks "more" better than that straight brass pipe I extracted from the bowl! Need to do some precision drilling and get my measures straight for a good press fit, which means I need to get my number drill index from the airport this weekend, as it must be a near perfect fit. That hose will go next! All said, seems I am working from bottom -up!

Earth calling Noel, come in Noel! It would have been more fun watching Craig!

Big congrats to Geoff! He deserves it! Taddy dies ride the edge it seems!

Quite good, any idea who it is? My dry runs typacally do not end up with quite that! Although I may well encourage someone like you! I will catch you!

So as things go, and if I understand correctly, Neo made TWO changes with the last test with the install of the Boyesens and the move to the 26 OKO in his findings of nervana! I am not sure which made the most noticable difference, although both come into play. And I cannot recall if he is running the stock ignition timing on the 2.5? The 26 should allow as much full power as the dellorto, which is still plenty for most! The objective here in my case being to add a more precision BUT limiting device to the more powerful 2.9. I am working on a few mods to the 24 Oko I will post up. I will run the standard bore on it at first, but other things are changing. Neo's comment on the downhill performance has been another issue with me as well. Raising the float setting (lowering the level) was well thought of, yet I admit I never did it. Makes me wonder where the actual level IS running in that clear bowl with things in place? And I am thinking mine WILL have some type of secondary bowl vent reguardless, ala the dellorto. It may get ugly! I mat totally trash this carb, but something is about to happen!

Good luck with that one! I have never seen a standard code published. You may find some standard color that would be close, otherwise probably need to be custom mixed to match. Even then you get into a real problem with the type of paint! For toutch -up a laquer will normally suffice, but it may go solvent if you get fuel on it!

About 1/2 to 1 of your stone things!

Foooking Impressive! Think I'll go back to Renthal bars now, just to see what happens! That frame tubing is much too thin for me!

So the lower (overflow tube) is not blocked off in the center one ?

Just remove the gear off the clutch(drive) side of the crank! Clutch basket probably has to come off for clearance! Bearings stay put! Seal pops out!

Pity you are not here, I would give you one of mine just for the welding practice! Most work, some are beauties! Others require a bit of grinding! Reguardless, all need a bit of paint, find some! You will need it!

Now I am totally confused! Looks as though the one on the left says 30mm One in center says 26mm, yet looks as though the lower bowl hose(overflow) is blocked off.(is that so?) This seems to act dual function as a secondary bowl vent if I am correct(as long as the tube is run down) and without it, there is only one. And still yet not in good relation to the muff. The 26 should indeed still supply plenty of power to the motor, ala the stock Dellorto in upper range, yet still be better at mixing at lower speeds. Neo, do you have a spare metal bowl, cause I think I am about to totally screw this one up!

Jon, I have all three in my shop, the Tig works well, but sometimes I do not! On a standard repair, I would not hesitate to burn in a good Mig repair, nothing wrong with that either! Point being, get a good welder, I am not!

I do understand all that, makes one question? I take seals out of car engines all the time! Many are still black! Most have still made high mileage! Others are brown and such, seems one never knows the actual composition, as I just go with the strict OEM part numbers and do not vary. These things are simply disguared, no idea about origin. Commonly, poor oil change history is evident! Same with the bikes for me, as unless someone has come up with some seal numbers to backtrace, I have no idea their content. But I do have some some other ideas about the oil used and its seal conditioning properties! (or lack of) As this could be a potential issue!

The bikes need to shake out, yet once again I have to admit to the basic design functionality and majority of components! Hell, at that price, I would get one for a near endless supply of spares for the Sherco! Hell we may all be riding econo bikes rather than a "special" before long! Get what you can! priceless!

Your vids were great, yet I have not experienced that as a plug problem, I think it may be more likely that you gave finally passed your old gas! Good is good still yet! Cheers,

So I understand, you did this with the motor already warmed up and such, correct? Then ther should be no pumping process through the tube. If you did not have it run up high prior, then that in itself could be a problem. A leak is still a leak, and such as Neo's case, could well suck in oil to create some of the smoking you observe that you seem to consider unusual. The seals are easily enough replaced, and barring any other symptoms of loose bearings asn such, I would take the simple route as Neo did. The bearings should turn smoothly, no noise and no excess play. they probably start out at .003-.004 clearance and their service limit would be about twice that if you wanted to take a measure on them, but basically if you cannot detect a major movement in the flywheel side or the other, I would put seals in and run with it! Freshen the rings and or piston if you like! May need it! Seems there could be a decent test process developed with the water scale here, wish I had thought of that on Neo's bike. Can't tell him anythin anyway, nutter! Lest get back to this seal composition thing, Tony your basis please!

I would certainly contact SM to see what they they are using!

The material of the frames is quite weldable. Can be done with Mig or Tig style, although I would suggest you seek out a qualified pro for suggestions and or possible reinforcement in the break area. Are there any qualified aircraft welders in your area that do such things as engine mount repairs and such, or race car guys that are skilled with the Tig torch? Stay away if one wants to do it with the gas rig. It can be done, but?

Still squeals, not as bad though, only fix is the heavy disc i think! Mine does not really bother me at the lower level.