copemech

This does seem to be nasty stuff as tests seem to reveal that it will strip the fiberglass and damage rubber and plastic products! There IS still pure gasoline out there, I was in OK last weekend and they were actually advertising it as alcohol free! That does little for most,and one would actually have to run a water absorbsion test to verify most content. True fuel should absorb NO water when mixed in a small vial! In other words, if I took a 50ml vial, added 30ml gas then 10ml water and shook it, there should be no separation or varience in the settlement of the mix. If there is a change, there is a issue! Any more modern epoxy based fiberglass resins may be more immune to this, however the standard poly resins are not! There has been a clear statement put out by Cessna aircraft stating that use of these products may cause fuel system damage! I have no idea about ally tanks, other than the possibility of the corrosion potential of the induced moisture content. Same goes for steel tanks really!

I think the kid has missed his mark. He could have put two sticks in it and sold it as a sex machine!

Good to hear from Marlintec again on this one. I like the test you did on the 250 Gasser, but I wish you had done it on a 280! This gives a better relation to the 2.9 Sherco or the 270 Beta, both of which can be a handfull to your clubmen riders. The late model 250 GasGas seemed to me to be very manageable to begin with, probably "butter smooth" with the Oko, sweet for many! The larger bikes can still be a bit much at times it seems, and even though my 2.9 is very good off the bottom, there is still a respectable mid range HIT that is rather non linear with the Dellorto, Boyesens and timing changes. Obviously porting and such comes into play with the tuning of the motor, and the CAMMING will come into play on the 4T bikes! The SPS system on the Sherco seems to me just a "spitback" mitigation system in the case that one Does open the throttle too quick at low revs and get a lean misfire. All good, but rider technique comes into play a bit here, the combination of a sleved down SPS could be rather good it seems! The CV carbs seem to have a certain advantage in that they will basically disallow a too quick opening due to their vacume operation on a 4T!

Well just sitting there running, there should be no pressurization of the gearbox, and only slight thermal expansion of the air within during warmup process. There is always oil being slung about inside by the turning gears, and this is sort of why is may be best to run the vent tube uphill first, so even microvapors accumulate and return down, the other reason is to defeat to some extent any shock cooling effect and associated air space contraction of deep water! As the water must be pulled uphill first before the downhill entry would be allowed. This is not foolproof in DEEP water! But back to yours, the crank area of a 2T both blows and sucks, essentially, an escape in one direction or the other is not good. Concieveably,a simple guage could be built to monitor these changes in gearbox pressure in inches or mm of water pressure rise or fall. In your case, seems bubbles would suffice! I wonder if Neo did any cross reference to the seal that came out of his? It did look BLACK, and nitrile! And all that can even take things back to the oils used and the additives in them. That is another story!

I think that the 450ml is fine providing that you get the old oil out. Warming the bike and leaning it over to about 45 deg angle helps. I cannot do it on a stand, oil goes everywhere and makes a mess. They do seem to naturally expell any excess and find their own level, then fine.

Castrol states that the R40 is not supposed to be mixed with any other oils. This could be a problem!

Yea, As an old MX'r the only thing I really miss on a modern trials bike is the ability to do sit down flat tracking style powerslides! Course, you cant really do them on a modern MXbike either! They suck! Has anyone ever figured out why one would want a Motard(retard) bike? Why would I want 10-12 inches of suspension jacked up under my ass to run a road course on that squirrly thing? Just nuts really! Maybe some will wake up!

Oh yes, I recall now as you did mention that before, good tip! The whole thing about running the -2 spring setup seems that the ATF is mandatory to reduce slippage. Then we get into which ATF? Those wanting to run cheap dextron should not apply! The Mercedes or Allison spec full synthec ATF is what I am talking about. Not cheap stuff! It may still react more quickly than the thicker gear oil with the standard 6 springs set, much depends upon what the rider wants? I can still get a quick pop and no slip running 33% less lever pressure, but I will admit it takes some adjustment! Anyway, Give Brad my best wishes and a big man hug! Good lad he is!

Good thing you have a new bike on the way! This IS starting to sound as something of a Neo bike to me! Except blowing oil out as well? Ok, lets try this little experiment. Normally I would run the gearbox vent tube up and over the carb fuel inlet, then back down to the skidplate level, making this small hose quite long. If you were to get your thingie warmed up and spitting, what would happen if you were to take the end of the vent tube and submurse it in water? Does it make bubbles as if the crankcase is pressurizing the gearbox area? If so, that would suggest a leaking seal on the primary side, or bad center case gasket allowing the crankcase pressure to get to the gearbox side of things. This could also allow oil to travel the other way and create more smoke than normal. My guess would be that seal, refer to Neo's post for relatively simple replacement, only 40 pages of getting there, skip to the end! Makes me wonder about seals now! I am not totally sure if we defined them as being black nitrile or not?

I would still be in doubt myself!

I have heard some old ones that were quite raspy, like there was nothing left and all the guts(packing) had been blown out of the muff! That would seem rare on a newer bike, yet who has been riding it? And what has been done?

My plates work just fine! Still running the light setup, is Shack? He is a bit rougher on them than me! I still always ck it before startup though. For the one wanting to separate the plates with more travel, this will not work, as there is nothing that forces the actual plates apart. A SHEAR force is neccessary to break the STICTION of the plates once stuck. Micro Grooving by roughening the steel plates with something like #80 grit paper on a flat surface will help in breaking the surface tention and typically last longer than a buff with a finer grade for those running the standard clutch and thicker oils. I must work Saturday, RL, the weekend is likely off, as well as the series, although I may still try to make the OK event!

God man, all this time and all that BS and you never figured out whayt that lever on the left is for? IT applies your TRACTION(power), screw your RPM or Gearing! Of course, riding clutch out, you will get along better in the slippery sections on a 125, may improve your score!

Actually , I switched back to the Maxima 927 Castor/ synth blend about a year ago. There is nothing that can replace the smell of bean oil! There is just a bit of bliss in it that gets you! Not as offensive as the pure synth stuff anyway It does seem to run just as clean as the fully synth K2 product, yey seems to go through a bit of a smokey period upon initial warmup. My friend into the karts and running the same at 12k rpm reports very positive on the stuff, runs clean, maximum power, dyno tested, little carbon build! The Castrol R could be similar, not sure about that. That smell gets my woody on!

Good one Biff! Clear your inbox!

I will not be the one to take claim to that tidbit. That goes to my first hand view of Brad at RYP actually doing it! Patience of a saint!

In my experience, the fresher the oil seems to mitagate this issue, andd the thinner oils such as ATF(Merc synthetic) help, but no total resolve. All a tradeoff for feel and such. M2C

I tend to agree with that statement, although I have never been sure if what seems to be a major change in performance was due to the carbs or different cams or what. The newer gen 4T does seem to be more aggressive. As the taming of the 2.9 has been my beef all along, I admit that although I have not had the luxury of p***ing off money on quirky thoughts, the Oko has been on the radar, and now that these seem to be popping up at a decent price, I can take one and totally ruin it if i want! This thing laying on the bench has been looked at, cleaned up, and screwtinized! All kinds of mod thoughts going through the mind, should I bore it to 25? Could go 26 easily! Na, I think I will just run it as is and see what happens!

Watched the vid, bike def sounds as though running lean on the mix. Although it is possible that there could be an air leak somewhere, start with the basics. Be sure your fuel tank vent is not pinched or restricted in any way. If you suspect you had water in the bowl, dump the tank into a clean clear 2l vial to see what comes out the bottom that may re contaminate the carb. Break the carb over the same vial to see what comes out! Does your carb have vent tubes installed? Are they restricted? All basic thoughts!

Actually it does! 100% Blue Agave Tequila! No need for pills! Anything less is just risk taking! Cheap tequila will kill you! I wish I was just kidding about the weight thing, but it is serious business really. Granted, some are just going to be thick! Like Zipper! That is what it is, yet if one is in the Upper range, that is not good. Look up the definition of Morbid Obesity in the books. Basically, You are going to Die! This is the stuff your doctor cannot control, yet only politely suggest. I am not your friggin doctor, ok, get a grip! On the positive side, I can think of at least two trials riders that I know personally, that will tell you that if they had not started riding, getting regular exercise, and activity, they would have probably have died within the last few years.

Well put!

Should at least allow you to change the maps to suit, within the range! Power and response is always an illusive thing, depending upon the demands and the moment. Everything is a tradeoff! Pick your poison or adjust towhat you got! You may never be HAPPY!

When the fooking 4RT came out, no one would buy them! Drove the US importer into desparation! Once folks started throwing them against some rocks they figured them out! The Xispa has more proven technology than most, there may be some bugs, but only time and riders will tell. And if anyone thinks the high performance Spanish or Italian rock bashers are perfect, think again! Their average duty cycle is limited without some work! And if anyone thinks any of those are built for maximum reliability or low maintenance, you are just daft! They all have their quirks!

Another good report then from Bob! That thing may be just the trick for 4T

Just FYI, they are replacable. Seems the original leads were set with an epoxy sealer of some sort. If one takes the time to carefully pick it out, they can be redone. Carefull, as there is a small prick post in the center that goes into the wire portion of the lead.