copemech

I cannot recall anything similar in automotive use, although there may be some commonality between bikes manufactured, and prices seem to vary among common parts?

I think it is well posted the potential hazards in this! Yet Neo is still a nutter, and does realize that, and all I can add is my observation that the stock sherco bars do at least tend to bend rather than break. An overstressed Renthal set may not give any warning it seems! I think one would require a steel or ali plate, precision drilled for a set of bar clamps. Lay a known good set in them and roll them back to mark the parallel lines where the bars ends hit the plate. Etc. The plate would bolted to a secure level workbench. rotate them verticle to clamp solid for adjustments. As most bends occur directly about the clamp area. Height can be checked in parallel with the plate or with the scribe line when laid over. The only rationality of doing all this would be maybe for EMERGENCY SPARES! Otherwise , toss them! If one were to need to put them on to complete a trial, they would really need to come off just as quick! I used to keep spares in the truck, a really cheap set of Hebo's (low rise) and an expensive set of 5.5 Blue Renthals. Now with the fatbars, I have not bent them, some kid on a Gasser 80 needed the Hebo's and those beautiful Blue Renthals remain if anyone needs them. They are 10mm higher than stock Sherco.

Save #4 , you will need it in a bit! ! Good luck! They want to do "Alien Inspections" on you!

I no longer recall if I was the one who speculated this, yet ----- uh really? I do not know that it would make that much difference unless the ratio were swung back to 36:1- 48:1 or something that might put MUCH more oil on the walls. Problem is that way too much condenses and falls to the bottom of the motor at low rpm. I was going to mention the fact that I had started a '09 2.5 for one of our female riders back earlier in the year. (Yes, I wanted to ride it) She had ridden the bike in for a number of hours of practice and maybe a trial, so it had what I would guess 10-15 hours on it. Well, first impressions were, "this thing is still tight" even commented on it! And when I say that, I mean that 2.5 was probably 20-30 percent more difficult to prod through than my well run 2.9. Now all that being said may just tell how well worn my rings are, yet at the same time, as i stated, it does make the legwork easier. Seems to run fine with the dellorto, yet I never got the pinging out of the motor till I went to the 38 pilot, sinse new. All that just serves to tell me the old hag may need a freshen up as well, yet I am doing long term testing, as this bike started out in late '06 as Cody Webb's TDN bike, so I am sure it was broken in well, (yea right) over the weekend! Nearing three years old now, yet I must really discount a year off that as I have laid off the comps this year and some of last. As with Ishy, I have come to like the 2.5's like my old '05 bike. The 2.9 can be smoothed and mine is not bad, actually it is near butter smooth in it's current state, so much so I may either replace the rings or kick timing back up a couple mm. The whole thing about response and power is a balance it seems, all dependant upon the riders needs. Yet when I do have someone like Ryan sit there and tell me off the cuff, that unless he is running big rocks like Cali or Colorado, he is on the Dellorto for ease and reliability, well, what do you say? Now take Smage, he likes the big power, and stick mostly with the K carb, power rider! So all said, I am in fact somewhat still interisted in the OKO carbs, as they are available in 24, and26 mm versions i think. As I have gotton no feedback from Neo on the carb switch from the 125 on the 2.9, think it was a 24mm, which may indeed proove to be lacking, I am not yet sure that a 26mm OKO on a 2.5 may not be a good combo? As I just have no need for the added power, I took the K -28 off my old 2.5 and it has set since! Anyone want one? Just my thoughts,

For some reason, I am sure Mum and Dad will be impressed with your newly found knowledge from UNI! mmmmmmmm! Once you gain a few points, you can show the piercing to dad as ewll! That should just about do it!

I give up!

Just an abstract thought really, Now try drilling those bearings, not for me! Although, I wish they could be manufactured that way!

Brake repair kits are cheap, and even with a gearbox issue, there is seldom nothing that a few bucks will not fix to keep it in good shape and still a very competitive bike!

Well then, the rings must be cast as I suspected, which may also confirm the more rapid wear rate. As Stork's theory serves to re- instate some basic guide, which your mate is going on as well, I suspect that the minimal difference in gap between .009 and whatever would change in about the first hours run time on these, so therefore I would stick with the stockers as they come. As Stork did mention, gap in itself can be a negligeable point, up TO a point! If Clav's statement holds true as initially proposed, and the rings condition does indeed change the volumetric efficiency of the motor, thusly effecting the carby, then it would not neccessarily be the gap on the ging ends that is the culprit, but the "tension" ov the ring that is effecting it's ability to seal, or not seal well enough to control blowby! Which in turn may effect mixture! So you see, there must be a logical reason for the claim that Clav and Neo have presented, or else the Kiehin is just a POS, or they are both on drugs! I doubt that, so there must be an explanation.

Honda is still a Honda! With a Montesa badge!

I will try to remember, In the mean time, ans since you posted that piccie, if you are really bored you can figure how to polish the Sherco lettering on the top end and find some nice titanium bolts or allens for the head along with a VX plug!! That will give you something to do.

Man Stories 1.. I was walking through the cemetery this morning and saw a guy Crouching down behind a tombstone. I said "morning." He said "no just taking a dump". 2. When I was a kid I used to pray every night for a new bike. Then I Realized that the Lord doesn't work that way, so I stole a bike and asked him to Forgive me. 3. My girlfriend was in labor with our first child. She was shouting out "get this out of me? Give me the drugs." She looked at me and said, "You did This to me you *******!" I casually replied, "If you would care to remember, I wanted to stick your rear but you said, "it'll be too painful." 4. I went to an extremely attractive female doctor today for my annual Checkup. She told me that I had to quit masturbating. I asked why and she told me, "because I am trying to examine you." 5. I was walking down the road today and saw my Afghani neighbor, Abdul, standing on his fifth floor apartment balcony shaking a carpet. I shouted up to him, "What's up Abdul, won't it start?"

The seals are built into the bearings on the sherco.

Yea, well I will give you a few thoughts then, I do understand. Send them new nipples to do up the rims at the same time! Pre pack them with silecone grease on the threads! And supply them a bit to pre lube the nipple seats! They may not do the polished edges on the rims, ok but you may ba able to do later if they get nicked! Do not expect your rear rim to come back with the proper offset! Which is critical! Prepare to re align things! Anything you send to a plater must be as perfect as you want it beforehand, **** looks like plated ****! I personally tend to stay away from the hubs if they are in good nick, not to use the bake on paint! it does chip and turn sour! I have to order those pedal bushes in a batch! Have not had any demand since the first batch that were in testing and still on mine! I may get more, but as of now I have none to send. Even the very last one I was planning to give to Noel Smage has gone missing? I might get some on order before long.

I'm good for another 1250 at least! Hungry now!

Agreed, do not run bronze on bronze. I have little doubt that the nitride treated hard bushes may hold up a bet better, while the bearings themselves have gone to crap! In the "non roller" scheme, my mind takes me to something like a ceramic bearing and a stainless bush insert. Inert to corrosion, the grease still has to keep the dirt out, and still not sure about stiction under the loads? Not cost effective!

Well, I totally understand where you and your mate are coming from. However I seriousy doubt the factory does such ring matching. Thusly an "A" bore and piston match will recieve the standard rings and start off a bit tighter in the clearances than a "B" or so it goes. In my mind, the biggest problem with piston scoring has been basically the same as starting off from cold. If one lets the bike sit and cool, then rides a tough section requireing high loads and rpm, the piston will heat up faster than the bore! and at these tolerances that is not good. You need to run them about to get heat in the motor and bring temps up together. Fan cycles! This seems even more critical on a low time motor. BTW, did you figure out if the rings are brittle? Do they bend or break? Only thing I can see with a bit of fileing would be to possibly shorten their lifespan, which may be rather short in some cases to begin with.

We actually have a modified gate trial version that Tommi Avahla brought fourth. Totally different really, yet with gates! We have done it a few times and it IS a blast for all! Great way to break up any boredom in a standard club trial, stop or not! Seemed riders of all levels liked the format!

Try disconnectintg the kill switch if it is stock.

Oh yes, the boss needs to update us on the Hoover Dam, has it moved?

In observation ov Clav's post, Firstly, I know these specifics are a bit hard to come by(non exhistant), yet you suggest that you filed the stock rings a bit to open them up? Why? Are those rings cast?(do they break or bend)? Secondly, Ryan is pretty darned good on stuff actually, yet he is not an engineer but he is a good mechanic and a wealth of knowedge due to his vast experience since day one and beyond! His postings are usually concise, therefore I would normally conclude that the spec of .020 would be what is normally called out as a "service limit" on wether to toss it or not! He has shown me a few pointers on the bikes and does know his stuff! You don't even want to watch him ride, friggin nutter will just embarass you! You see, even though I have admitted on a number of occasions that I have NEVER had a reason to take one of mine apart further than the clutch cover, I kind'a keep tabs on this stuff! Long term testing of the '07 goes on!

Ok, Jamie, I am sure you can find someone in the UK to do your rims and hubs for about L 500! The yokes add another 50 if you break themdown, which is a real pain and likely require a new lower bearing. Far as I know, the engine bracket is still steel! Paint it! Thermo casing is easily thrown in a plating lot, yet not worth the trouble, paint it! I doubt the pump cover is magnesium, as none have rotted away that I know ov! Yet one would need stripping and polish before Anodising or it would not look good! Good luck on spokes and nipples. The stock nipples can corrode quickly due to the plating. I have not found a better replacement other than New! Bike in shreads, possibly weeks!

I hope you get out to some modern events to do some checking around and testing. . .! I had hopes "no jive" would have chimed in by now, yet he may seldom checks this thread. The 200cc range is somewhat limited, Beta being the only true 200! There are other good things out there though. Feel free to send me a PM from this site any time! Cheers and later, MC

Holy crap batman! These two nutters actually know each other! This could get really good! No Copebashing allowed!