copemech

Rlracer is in Tulsa and can help you out with any problems. You can PM him from this site!

Consultants, those trained in the art of supplying you with solutions to problems you never had! Real experts in your field! Most industry has been *******ized enough by the so called experts! What about the surveyors, they want to do a survey and report! Make all your clients HAPPY! What about those you cannot! In the real world, there are about 10% of your customers that take up about 50% of your time and production! These people need to get a reality check! Like Leaches, they will suck you dry, all for their own profit or benifit, and they do not care. Think someone owes them something! Add the government compliance issues to individual business and industry! How anyone survives without telling the lot to p*** off is a mystery to me! Add a top heavy management that has nothing to do but bust your balls in an effort to make things look as though they are doing something! Mostly overpaid, accounting, numbers their specialty! The remnants of things already past! Yet they hold so dear! While few have foresight, and fewer have insight and enough intelligence or common sense to do anything! And then you wonder?

God only knows what that black finish really is, yet I suspect some plasma/vacume applied tungston technology from Paioli!

No, the factory bolts are cadmium plated steel. They will corrode a bit over time, yet are cheap to replace. The biggest potential problem comes not from appearance, but the corrosion on the thread portion due to water exposure. Treatment with a grease/ antisieze mix on all the threaded bolts you can access(not brake disc bolts) is advisable, although I usually replace all my common bolts with stainless steel and coat as stated. Coat axles with waterproof grease.

Some really good shots there! The Andy will hate it! Picking his nose again!

Found him one with the lenses did he!

Uh,oh! To be honest, I don't even know where the schematic is on these things! Might help if I knew what went to what! Helps make logical sense of it anyway. As mine is not dual map, do not know how similar they are, but I think there is just one added wire that grounds to change the map. I can maybe take some readings off mine this week, if it will help. My good meter is at work. MC

This almost makes me wonder if there is not some excessive build of pressure here for some reason, like leaky head o-ring or something. Have you tried running it up to normal temps and topping off the rad just to see if there are any abnormal bubbles that just keep coming out without capping it?? I realize these things should be able to build and hold some pressure under stress, but as long as that fan is still cycling out there really should not be any as the temp are low enough to prevent it. Just a thought.

Ah! Is that it? Damn thin looks huge with the bi-focals on! I'm off to buy the readers for the wifey, she needs magnification! Maybe I wil be appreciated more!

I would never take out more than two opposing springs!

And just wot is that thing on the top? Does not seem to doo anythin?

Oh crap!

I would be more inclined to drive five or more hours to ride, if there were more T.I.T.S.!

Although relatively close by, I am not quite sure who Plunker1 is, probably Rob T. And if the bike I am thinking about, it can leave you hanging at the wrong time! All said, yes a good point is made about the possibility of the electrics causing such grief! There have been a number of wierd reports over the years of strange happenings that I cannot totally explain or neccessarily develop a pattern. This makes things even more difficult to diagnose. Poor grounding(earthing) of anything from the motor itself and stator plate, to ignition box, to plugs, cap and wireing have caused misery! The components in the stator(and trigger)coils tend to be more likely to just fail, hot it seems. While the advance box/coil could get erratic! As none here have a test stand to run this stuff off the bike, many times component replacement has been the last resort, although it may be possible to "catch things in the act" if you had a strobe setup handy while it was happening. Low or no output, erratic advance or scattered timing may be clues. The resultant overheating of the exhaust due to much unburned fuel downstream and not neccessarily the overheating of the cylender, yet results in poor running, basically poor combustion process! Pinging and preignition may come into play as well. You see, I could be wrong here, as I am not an electrinicstitition, yet logic dictates that the "black box" that controls the advance curve if the ignition is nothing but a "delay"box in the first place. As timing by trigger point can never come before the actual trigger anyway, so thusly, the advance curve is simply slowed at lower rpm. Possibly too much if things are not right, follow? Possibly not enough as well. Friggin chips! How far can these things go off, not sure, but if anything like some of the other electronics I deal with, well?

I think clutch should disengage just off the fingers, a full engagement will be well out from that point for a full "pop". Try sliding the foot off the side of the brake pedal so you can still rotate foot and catch it with toe. Some fix the pedal tip so it angles back slightly!

Hardest part is putting metal back into a highly modded hole!

Sherco 2.9's got quite perky in 02-03 due to the tuning, not sure about the 2.5's , yet I doubt as gentile as earlier versions. My '05 2.5 is still the fav! In my mind anyway! And any still very useful !!!!!

And the peak of the Jap development! Looking down the list: Honda Yamaha Suzy Kawa vs Ossa Bultaco Montesa As time has passed, it seems to be that the Yamaha came out on top! Actually, the best riders did! But that is still true today!

I would think wheels off would deter, thieves are lazy!

Yes they did, and yes they do! It is always refreshing to me to watch some of these very talented guys who are still riding today. There some who were never famous, yet still are in the sport. Many soo good I can never come close! Soo many years of experience!

These guys are just too creative(bored) in the winter! Zippy needs the gold(Krylon) rims! Much better than that ugly Orange that Montesa uses!

Good pic, although still difficult to tell if it is leaching from the exhisting seal or quite what. Personally, I would be inclined to attempt a repair, first by balsting it clean, then the application or brake cleaner and air to insure surface is clean of antiferrze residue. Another trick is to use a light vacume on the tank to suck cleaner in, thus insuring (hopefully )good adhesion in crack, and a small amount of super glue to aid in viod filling under vacume, prior to coating with the rad weld, JB weld or whatever Adrialite you call it, of choice. These compounds can work well but it is all about "clean and grip" , little ventured, nontheless!

Wot did I tell you, nothing wrong with the standard bike. Has more torque and easier to ride than the Gasser! One can Bling to taste, will not help your riding though! I like those graphics on yours, wish they were better quality than you reported!

I do not understand what you expect for l 1000, some sorting may be neccessary! I would go through everything on a older used bike! Condition is premier unless you can rely upon the maintenance performed. A double sided coin! With which, you get wot you pay for!