copemech

Gotta pic? Best I recall the return spring must be spread to enguage a pin on the case so the arms if it are parallel and all goes into position so the pawls align with the drum and pins. Pthe pawls will simply ratchet when the drum rotates. Although, you may need to turn the chainwheel so things align and enguage fully to the next gear selected, as one may not necessarily just fly through all gears while stationary simply because you are moving the lever.

You may be sort of "inbetween" for a heavier spring, so first I would follow the suggestions posted in the recent thread on the 2011 shock to find out if the unit is actually working, as his was not! You may want a bit more damping dialed in if it is working. What color is your spring?

Well, I am not going to write a book here as I only have two good typing fingers and they get tired quickly! It has all been done before, but I will allow you MY tips. 1- You may need a clutch side cover gasket if yours does not come off clean. 2- You may want/need fresh coolant. There are 3 main large nuts you should try and get right. The one on the Mag, the one on the Clutch hub and the one on the Primary drive gear. I use the dremel with the small thin disk to scribe alignment marks on the nuts and shafts prior to disassembly so I can take them back(or slightly beyond) upon reassembly and using the rattle gun A good 3/8 drive gun should do it, as the big 1/2 drives are usually too hard to control well. There are good electric ones that will work too, but not the cheap ones. Mag side, remove flywheel and stator plate noting top index mark on stator position, gently pry seal out and reinstall new one using socket or something as a drift if you can, then reinstall what you took off and torque up your flywheel nut. Clutch side, drain coolant, lay bike on side so no oil lost. Gonna need to pull brake pedal and kicker lever to pull cover. Remove clutch basket and primary drive gear noting position of washers and such on clutch and water pump.(the 2 other big nuts come in here) The primary gear can be a bit tight on the shaft, I use a slide hammer with an angled adapter to get under it and pop it up. One lad made a puller with an old pushbike pedal and a bolt as it need to be thin enough to fit under, just. Does not take a lot but possibly too much to lever a screwdriver against the case without damage. Pull seal and reassemble. Note you will likely want to follow the water pump seal replacement guide on the Sherco website to insure you do not get the drive gear or washer jacked up in the reassembly of the side cover. So in summary, if you get my drift on all this you are probably good to go, and if you do not have a clue you would prolly be better off letting your local dealer do it. I say that because there are times that some folks should not be handed power tools as they become dangerous! And this is an advanced process for those who have never done such. Cheers, MC

There are threads within this forum with details. It is not difficult, however, if you do not have what you guys call a good "windy gun" life becomes more difficult! If you do not have this , or access to it, you will need a clutch holding fixture. Splatshop will likely loan you one upon deposit if needed, and you will need a torqur wrench that will go to 72 lb/ft if we are not able to use the "cheat" method. If we can use the cheat method, then a dremel tool is preferred as well. So what do you have within your skills and toolbox?

Address known issues(fan) and whatever else, then ride for testing. The seals would not normally be toasted by a top end overheat.

Prolly needs the seals, I give them 2-3 years on average unless you use the Viton ones from Splatshop. Factory seals do not seem to like the alcohol induced fuels.

As you see from these graphs, although these are for the adjustable unit, the difference is nil at the revs we normal folk operate.

Splatshop can fix it, prolly half the cost of a new one, or he may even give you some PX toward an Ohlins?

I suppose one could remove the shock, then the spring. It normally requires 60-70 lbs of force to compress the shaft against the internal gas charge of the unit. Inspect for bent shaft by rotating and feel for smooth operation and return damping and no squishy sound as in low oil. I am not aware of any cushion other than the jounce damper.

Should be a rubber jounce bumper on the shaft of the shock. Be sure it is not torn or missing.

I remove the switch, done!

Sik fuk, nae the wee willie is tucked like a tranny and thus no religious offense!

Shocker should have a bit of cush coming back up, similar to forks, if it feels like a pogo stick it is knackarde, or if too harsh same. Send it in to Splatshop for rework if it is done. Ck your linkage and lube and tighten things here as well. may be simple.

Yes, they pop out after flywheel side and clutch side removed. Takes a couple hours and a few tools. add- if wheel bearing are good, you can pry the seals out of them and pack with grease, then pop seals back in. Never hurts!

The 2.5's of that vintage were deemed "quicker" bikes and a bit rippy! I had an '05 and set the timing back a bit to settle it. The later 2.9's are tuned a bit more for torque and better control ans smooth power, but get a handful and you will still be on your butt quickly! Slow vs fast throttle is something like 10-15 degree rotation difference to open fully, which you may not need. One would need to compare to other later bikes exhaust note as the muffs have changed, however if yours is too rhaspy it is likely sacked out and needs cleaning or replacement. They are not designed to re-pack, although some have done it.

I was going to comment, yet your last sentence may sum it up. I do not know of a pressure test set for this, although one may me devised with adaptation. One thought would be removing the old one for inspection, as it is likely a simple spring loaded ball, and insuring it is not seized. No further info and I am not in the mood to break mine to find out! Ha! Cheers,

Great! It should make a nice bike for you. If I had to throw a few ideas your way, I would suggest you grease the steering head bearings, the axle shafts and swingarm pivot bolt and the bearings due to the age. If one lets these things sieze up you may regret it later. The crank seals may me suspect due to age and potential of alcohol fuels, easy to change if needed. Floaty idle and such was my first indication even with a clean carb. Splatshop has the Viton ones. And lower fork guards in plastic that are cheap and work well! Cheers, MC

Thanks for that Glenn. I just figured out where RI is. Screw that!

Some good stuff here! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d57o4m3Myfw

Another awesome concept video ans Sharon killing it with help! Did I ever tell you I like the ladies singing to me? Seems al long way and obviously more commercial than some of their roots, but it rocks! I am old now, and simple is best! I now prefer the Cessna as compared to this crap!

Looks to be in good condition and ridden little. Good buy at 3K prolly. It may be a 2.9(272) bike. Plan on going over the linkage bearings and such, no big deal.

Not bad for an old fart! He should get out more with the locals!

Welcome, You cannot be too far for a weekend ride at Trials Training Center outside Chattanooga, you would like it! They will run vintage class at trials events!

On order, cannot wait! More Metal! http://www.within-temptation.com/headlines/sharon-at-rock-antenne/

Agree with this general range of things, well put! I suppose if your weather never changes, then set it and forget it! Last week here was near 0 C, in the summer 40 C so adjustability is needed. Thus I try to keep a jet in there that I can adjust to the day as needed for best running, and they can be sensitive as this IS a FUEL trim screw, so 1/8 turn makes a change. Those running the leaner jets just run them wide open at 3.5 or so. It works for some, but cold enrichment is limited.