copemech

I recall when I picked up my "01 2.9! It was fairly wicked for me to ride. There was a sweet 2000 model 250 that came up for sale and I almost traded bikes. It was soo gentle! Had an "05 250 and it was wicked quick!, much like the earlier 2.9 so not a lot of difference. All takes some adjustment as compared to the old pokers. I still ride up a gear and find traction with the clutch to smooth things. Revs do not matter, apply is with clutch! Still takes a lot of practice, but a good clutch is your bailout tool and friend.

Yea, even small ones, I like to hit with the front wheel to add lift, cause when the back hits(or the skidplate), things can go wrong! Timing is everything!

Hey Doug, that is a good little clip that Lineaway found. The transition happened quick! I had to watch it a couple times. Ryan did a better explanation in one of his vids. Lineaway, I never rode Pampa, but them NEOTT guys have had some darn good log sections------- they kill me!! literally

Hold Pressure! Weight back and straight legs! Now that air log thing, well, you need some jap zap training! HA!

Find a strand of fine wire to pass through the pilot jet opening, copper is best, as they are difficult to see through.

All that, a good prop, stand or bucket you can set the skidplate upon for the first start of the day so you are stable and gan get up over the lever with your weight.. I may still go 3,4,5 kicks if cold weather, and if neer freezing they may be even more difficult. Many will lay the bike on its side totally for a second so the carb will spill some fuel internally for a prime. Others will enlarge the choke jet a bit to help. Just tricks, but insuring the clutch plates are not stuck together is a big deal, as it can catch you off when going into gear and you wind up in the neighbors back yard!

I am not aware of any "guards" on these. Many of my bikes over the years have been very close on the spring, and the tire may change that as well. On several, I have offset the snailcams just a bit to get better centering of the tire in the swingarm and better spring clearance. Does not seem to matter, as the chain looks to ride straighter as well, yet I do believe there are some geometry issues with it all that add up to no real difference at the speeds we run.

I have a rumble in my pants sometimes. Most times ok, but sometimes leaves zerorev tracks. May be 3 or 4! C'mon man, If you canny tell if abnormal or not, how the hell can we over the internet? All motors make noise. Try checking your mounting bolts. Good start!

I have run the boyesen dual stage reeds in most my Shercos. Tend to smooth things out off the bottom end and do not break the bank. I will usually run a bit larger pilot jet to 36-38 range on our fuel, yhen lean the fuel trim screw down to 2.5 or so range which normally gives a smooth transition off idle. Your mileage may vary!

hOW DOES IT DO IN NEUTRAL? typically a dirty carb or developing crank seal issue will give a floaty or inconsistent idle, yet not lower it.

Check the bearing on the other end of the countershaft where the chain rides. If it were bad the movement could force the idler into the mainshaft gear.

I think it would be fairly simple, yet I am not sure if their mapping normally does a total injector kill on decel like we would do in a car, but if so all one would need to do is bring them back into play a bit sooner.

No idea what bike, what year? What carb? A Dell can have an airscrew, but yhen not a later vintage. PHBL would be your standard later stuff running a fuel screw, so if you have it leaned out to where it will not rev, you have gone too far, as they will typically run 3 turns out or so, and adjust idle to suit.

From what I can see, either the clutch basket is too loose on the shaft, or the transmission main shaft is moving too much causing a misalignment of the clutch basket and unusual load on idler gear. See just how much the trans main shaft moves, should be nil. No other reports of this I am aware of. Quite odd! The clutch basket does have normal minimal play on the shaft, but not like that, seems something is moving a lot!

Sherco Front Forks Query See recent thread above for info.

Just realized you had the leaky fork seal as well. That will contaminate the brake!

Excusing the ignorant comment above, the primary cause of damage to these gears is a broken piece of gearshift lever return spring. If you have a piece floating around in there, you must locate it!

The tenth digit Y should be built in 2000 as I think, yet if a true 2001 model(end of year) will have contoured muff and different plastics with glossy frame, just different bike, in blue as compared to silver plastic..

Sweet!

Has an ejection lever under the seat!

As these systems are very basic, a couple of thoughts here: The system prolly has a rectifier and regulator already if you can find a diagram on it. You may be able to stabize the system simply by tying in a 8 cell AA pack into the light circuit using rechargeable ni-cd or lithium cells. Other thought, being a lot of specific lamps are available now in LED which use little of available power. Some are quite bright, but they do require stable DC power. Many available on fleabay.

Yea, what Steve said. Normally lever should be firm, yet stop well and quite sensitive. Pads (even good ones ) can get WD 40 or something on them and cease to function well, so a steam off is needed to clean them up. Take a bottle water, do a few good hard stops from upper gears to get the front disk hot, then douse it off(steam) with the water, then repeat. After a few tries and things cool and dry to normal, you may find they will pitch you on your head, so be careful! Poor pads just do not stop well, only other than Galfer I have found were the Braking pads, which seem better when wet, yet not as good dry.

And what? Still needa cover?

You don't say which motor, but likely to require some special jigs such as used on the aircraft rods I have done at local specialist machine works.

They will def bind up if too much oil in the right leg, like someone did not drain the damping unit before a refill, will be overfilled. To use the quantity method the damping cartrage must removed and completely pumped dry then add 370ml in the right. Left takes 385ml. This is for Paioli / Ceriani, Tech forks on later models is different on quantity.