copemech

Not having read your reference, I might assume this still required some hard running as compared to an average putt-putt trials bike. I do believe that many Mfg. recommendations are quite on the conservative side out of necessity and due to unknown factors such as mineral, semi or full synthetic. Seems some still swear by the semi, and as far as I know, the Yamaha 2T Racing is still popular and the same(made) as Torco brand(rebranded). It works and I have used it without issue. Honestly, I consider myself conservative on oil issues, as there are a ton of companies pushing their product, and most at premium price for 2T racing. I think much of this is marketing, and I have no way of knowing which is best, so must rely on track records it seems. And therefore, I have mostly stuck with the Maxima product here based upon near 15 years track record of our Sherco importer, and at the same 80:1 ratio as used by our team riders. I have run them hard, really hard, without issue. Not sure I am comfortable with our fuel at 10% alcohol, with water included. In the automotive world, I am still conservative, motto here is best oil is clean oil. We have cars running 200K miles and more on mineral oil, is it really worth the added cost for synthetic, and mostly no increase in change interval? I am not sure, as it is prolly good oil but?

Somewhere in the middle, good start! Seriously, I ck'ed the ones on my Sherco and the(presuming similar to gasser spec) are at 12 clicks in from full out, 20 clicks out from full in! seem nice to me unless you prefer less or more and I would say quick enough for most at that setting..

Well put! Only thing I might add would be as the rear spring settles in and the rear of the bike starts settling more than an inch or so you may need to wind the rear spring retainer up a bit. Not overly critical so not to be obsessed with it.

Good aircraft jokes Wayne!

Random thoughts here on the issue. First, have you contacted Ryan or anyone higher up that may have more info? My thoughts are this is still a pressure issue. The clutch slave moves about 1.5mm per stroke as I recall. I doubt your internals are shifting 8mm that you must pump that much. It is just getting pushed back by pressure. There is an o-ring on the slave as I recall. You might try removing it for extra venting as a test. I do not think it will leak much oil, but I am still not sure how much more venting this will provide. What about the normal vent? Any idea what sort of pressure pulses are there when revving? And last, what if you hold slight pressure on the lever to prevent pushback. It is a closed system once the return port in the master cyl is closed off, so you may either not experience the problem, or actually get return pressure increase?

I have found rattle can in silver charcoal to work on the bikes. Dupli-Color do them here, not sure there, ck the auto store.

Been on my last bottle for about 5 years now! **** man at 80: one I could never burn up 80 gallons of fuel, no place to put it all, so I had to break it into small 2 Gal portions at 25ml per jug! I luv math!

I am just an average mechanic, so I never see anything until it breaks! Been riding and racing 2T for several decades now, so seen a few! I work on cars and trucks for a living, bikes are a disposable pastime now. There are some brite fellows on here as well, and they probably know all about the oil migration cycle within a 2T motor. The lads with the small kart motors of 100 cc run plenty of oil as it gives them power! Cabestany posted up once stating they were getting over 13K on his bike, and he uses it! Although briefly. If I were to guess, I would think the standard mix for SSDT would be 50:1 all considered, yet even then the lads cannot take too much chance of overheating on the roads due to cooling capacity. Some may push it, some may fail!

As a general answer to you, I would say that as a beginner, unless you can find a Montesa 4T in decent condition, you would be better off with the best condition 2T of 250 flavor or less you can afford. This is a fairly large window, but 250's can be hard to find even! Here!

I always got nerves the night before a trial, could not sleep! Once I started drinking a couple pints and lost all hope, things got better, more relaxed, and I had more fun riding. Also in that process I decided to punch out of any sections I was not comfortable with. I am not killing myself or machine in the process! Maybe next loop! I do like riding with a buddy sometimes, better if they are a better rider and can offer advise sometimes, but still good if riding with possibly lesser riders and you may offer help! Walking sections is very important! Even more important is walking them backwards after and then figuring just how to go to get where you need to be! That be your lesson for today! Have fun and ride!

You know that does make perfect sense for your average idiot! I consider myself far below average, thus the lesser requirement I suppose, although I have done some tough testing trying to blow them up! Too lean on the jets will give you a lot quicker result that you may not like!

I cannot recall the year now, but the one I rode with the SPS carb restarted easily with a gentle(decompressor) prod when hot, and NO THROTTLE! Noew all that may go to hell if toy rip it over and flood the bike, good luck with that, same with most 4T stuff.

Although I normally mark these and put them back to torque with a rattlegun, It did just occur to me that one might simply use a torque wrench and a holding socket/ ratchet on the other end while bring both the gear and flywheel up to the 72 lb/ft rating at the same time upon reassembly!

Although I do respect your opinion and what you are stating, this last example would not be average use by normal folke. I do believe the P.O.U. must be kept in mind. For putting about and occasional revving, I feel safe with 80:1. For harder running or a road trial at higher(moderate) revs for long duration, I may go 50:1, and for extreme usage as in idiot use, well this may require a bit more such as 36:1 or so, thus I choose to stick with what works for my average use. And that is not extreme, thus the ratio.

So what makes you think the Gasser will be any better for her? It is probably less fit as a trials bike, and god knows what parts will fit these chineese motors. I put my wifey on a 125 Scorps when they first came out and she did not like it. The standard 125 2T bike (enter Sherco, Beta, Gas) was much better for her. Had to build up a little seat fixture, but it worked.

The gears are not cut that way in a Sherco. Yet movement under load is still possible I suppose. I had a 2T that would do this on occasion, thus the case venting thing to watch for. Never had it in later bikes. Wonder if it is readily duplicatable on certain hills? Can one maintain light pressure on the lever to prevent it?

Uh!, no! But it does sound interesting! Yes, case pressures may be suspect, but not having a 4T I have no idea how they vent, as the oiling system is different. Not much here for reference that I can recall. Yet there are several folks that may know something. Not sure exactly where you are, but I would start with an email to Ryan Young at RYP USA, ask him and also get the number for John Isherwood in CA, as he rode the pants off them for a while. Email Chris at Splatshop.co.uk, and or MRS in the UK. Last recourse I know would be motosPaxau in Spain. There is a fellow there that will respond to you in English and very helpful. Hope that helps.

Try Mike at Tryals Shop

Yea, I agree. Looks like that bike has been ridden. Tine for a new one as the "14 bikes are out!

Might try reading the recent thread on fork seals and fixing leaks, just FYI.

Splatshop has anything you will need, yet unless you are bashing major rocks I doubt you will need thicker bashplate. They do sell plastic covers for frame, fork, muff and gas tank which are recco for all good bashers!

Right then lad, I will pass you a few thoughts. First, a clutch pack is easily changed, but unless it is slipping or dragging excessively with lever pulled(still pulling you along) this is probably not needed. Sounds as though your major problem here is the shifting, or incomplete gear change? The thing one must understand in a gearbox is twofold. To change ratios and for things to line up properly and engage they must rotate. Stationary shifting from anything but neutral can be less than ideal. It is best if you are rolling slightly when doing the change, in anticipation of the next part of the section where it may be required. This is often associated with a full lift on the lever and a secondary "click" felt indicating full engagement of the selected cog as these things have to literally slide horizontally till the holes line up and if the holes are not aligned you have just taken yourself out of one gear ant did not find the next. Sometimes this happens quickly at FULL lever travel and not at other times, so one must use care and a bit of FEEL. This is same for all gearboxes, and typically the Sherco is very robust with extremely few real issues if used properly, yet sloppy shifting can get you in a pinch, or pop out on an incomplete shift. You are not on a road bike here , so things do not happen the same when you are putting about vs rolling fast and you must keep that in mind. Hope that helps,

Big jump to gears 4-5 on the Sherco, not too sure about the Mont ratio spacing, may need to try it.

God forbid anyone use naptha or stoddard solvent paint thinner. Keep a bucket sealed to reuse. There are limits to the cleaning of these filters and if yours is in poor condition, get a couple cheap ones for a tenner at Splatshop to royate out as you ALLWAYS need to pull and inspect them PRIOR to washing the bike and plug the bung so no water gets in, then wash away!

You do Know what causes this, do you not! The Eyes go next!