copemech

You should be able to email Steve at Motoplat UK(Bradford ignitions) He may have suggestions, as with Mr Jim Snell at Rising Sun imports. Possibly they have run across this? The other answer, What have you not done? Well, try that! That is the way this stuff goes if you don't have any known good stuff to work with.

Now that is some good info Biff! That is what we pay you for! Ha! Possibly it is normal, if properly induced? No ides if the CDI has any protection against it, although I was under the impression that most do, and that backward running was not possible, although I get things running through the old head, such as on a pulse coil setup, how does it know? I think the pulse polarity would change with direction of rotation, a simple diode may control it, yet if that diode is shorted, the system would not know. The newer stuff has hall effect stuff, and I cannot explain just how it all works either, so all just theory! My Theory! Hey, it works for me! Ha! That is why they call them black boxes and I hav not found any info on any of them!

Many simply remove them, can't tell any difference, done!

Align the factory mark on the stator plate with the right edge of the top web casting on the case for factory setting, whatever it is.

Seems to me you at least have a clue at what you are after here and how to get there! I am guessing the CDI unit is FU if all else is good. Something with the stator winding? Then you can get into other weird stuff like a cracked magnet in the flywheel! All else fails, you might want to call rising sun or possibly Adrian at Lewisport or someone to see if they will allow you a return on a tester CDI if there is nothing else close to you. Not that it makes sense, but I suppose to changed the plug? I have seen enough weird stuff to know how this goes, unfortunately.

If you get the alcohol out is should shrink on its own, mine did. Takes time, but after I went back to straight aviation gas I looked up a couple months later and it shrunk back to original dimension, had been getting quite difficult to fit. Not sure which is best, just changing fuel or removing all fuel and letting it air out? Considering mine took years to grow that much, I was surprised. Non alcohol race gas would be the other alternative, costs more but?

If you don't use your locals, they will not be around for you when you need them. Yes there will be times when uncommon stuff may need to be called in and drop shipped to you. I am not saying I have never found bits from the other side of the pond, but normal stuff is all available here, and I doubt any are getting rich off it.

Get a flywheel puller and use it. inspect for sheared woodruff key. I would order both at the same time if I were you!

I seen that at some point. Never quite figured it out because the thing is self adjusting. It may limit the furthest inward travel of the actuator against the pressure plate as a stop, but it is not going to normally make things separate further as it still only pushes so far. I do see Beta is using some different plates now in the later bikes, one thick plate and such, possibly an upgrade ? Anal Japs?

Backwards!

And point downward!

Ole Techno a sturdy steed!

Go up on the pilot jet to 35-36 range and put needle clip up a notch. Leave the main jet alone!

Normal really,, lots of rotating parts and straight cut gears, will be worse with thin oil like ATF, and when motor is hot from riding.

So you see, you can loose your balls and still have a hard lever! The slave piston will max out and there is nothing to push it back!

Only if getting your ass kicked is fun!

I have seen documentation by at least one seal maker which states the standard nitrile seals are not ethanol tolerant. My current and ongoing theory is that it may take 2-3 years to show up and weaken them. Some of this may vary, but I would cross it to a Viton seal if possible.

Oh hell, did not know I had grandchildren!

What is the frequency? That may sound like a stupid question, however, as in this case the knock would be totally unrelated to engine speed(rpm), yet more related to vehicle speed and load. Think about that then one is better able to sort things out! And yes, that little front one is going about four times faster than the rear! Motor much faster than that!

That don't work on non o-ring chains! You need something with better lubricity and that stuff just will not hold up under load. On you o-ring chains, you are not lubing the internals with it as it is pre-lubed and sealed with the rings on the stressed areas.

Yea man, I actually have a variety of stuff, and after an initial or thorough soak in solvent, I will use the Tri- flow lube with Teflon for better lubricity, but it stays wetter and slings off more so just use the WD after. Dont like using the WD straight away neither, use night prior so the thin carrier evaporates making less sling off mess. In the mud it makes no difference because everything is muddy!

So you stated you found the head was out of shape! Using feeler gauge on a flat surface or a straight edge you can measure this. Sometimes you may place the part into an oven at around 375-400F for a couple hours, then let cool normally which will normalize the metal. Takes out warpage. Then if it is within a thou or two, skim it on flat glass with 400 wet/dry paper till within .001 in. and should be good to go with near no change in performance or clearances. Just saying, good luck!

Good find then. Being a bit of a geek, the only operational theory on this I can think of is the fact that at lower revs, the crankcase pressures blowing back through a broken reed at low throttle slide opening would actually push (blow) the fuel backwards making for a difficult pick-up of fuel for the next stroke if intake vacume. The choke would help override this lean condition. The fact that the hydro effect of the water entry just blew a reed petal is good, because if the water made it up top side of piston a bent rod is assured, or worse! And thus, a lesson for all, DUH! We did not have this issue with old piston port motors, yes, I have swamped a few, Lineaway!

Clean well, soak in WD40, wipe excess and let dry, re-apply after every wash and ride, or between loops if really muddy.