copemech

The good news is that there is little on that thing that $500 will not fix. Not a bad bike, but not what I consider a Novice Choice, as they are fairly aggressive. Whatever floats your boat!

Stay off square rocks and you will not have A PROBLEM!

Romans 5:3- We rejoice in our suffering because we know that suffering produces perseverance, perserverance and character, and character, hope! Go ride!

There is no CORRECT! Depends upon the rider. Yours is not bad, yet you may take it up a bit, I would suggest 15-20 static range, as you need to allow some float for grip! Bit more even for the mud is ok! I have known many heavy riders at high levels that use stock spring. They just use them better than others! I had some numbers jotted down at one time, but cannot find them. Seem to recall the 85-90 or so range best on the Sherco for normal folk, loaded. A bit more preload should get you there in both areas. You would be fine, although springs will sag in over time and require a bit of adjustment. Gotta set the screw to suit yourself and ability. More or less is a tradeoff. Splatshop Chris is the Guru on this, you can contact him for more if needed, yet I doubt you should worry much.

Old co worker friend from 30 odd years back came up to our workplace today. Good to see him, and although our conversation got cut short by business, he had heard I still messed with the bikes, yes, can you get my old Bultaco trials running again, it has no spark? Probably so! I have a flywheel puller for it, he states! Do you have one them things to set points and stuff? I replied, yes, if I can find it! I have a proper dial indicator if it still works! Can I call you? Yes I said, heres my number! So, as things go, this is the fellow I used to borrow his TL 125 to use as a pit bike back in the 80's when I went to MX! He had a Triumph tracker too! Wonder if he still has them? Yes, I owe him a favor, so no issue. Cannot recall his Sherpa T year, probably early 70's vintage, and I will have to find out more. All point being, I may soon have to call on the experts here for more info. I seem to recall reading things like relocating the condensers to prevent overheat and such. Breakers set at 2.5mm btc, is that correct? Chime in if you like, I will have to get more details, Cheers all! Need to get my brain working!

2T is on left, 4T on right as I recall.

Wurth makes a tire bead sealer that tire shops use to seal rims. You can brush it on the spoke nipples prior to installing rim band. It does not stick hard like some other sealers, you can roll it off like a bugger if you ever need to. Stuff works well. You still need a good tire man to do all the cleaning and prep and testing, or you will beat yourself to death! These trials rims are sort of a specialty, do you have friends in the game?

You will get heat into the muff which will burn off the old accumulated oil and grunge. Constant throttle load in the mid range of revs would not normally hurt them, although you may be well advised to increase the oil in fuel ratio a bit to say 50:1 for long runs. Higher revs up into the range are not good for trials bikes long distance as the radiator is too small to dissipate the heat generated. They are not really a road bike!

If it is worth its salt it should be able to run anything up to and including expert lines with a good rider. Look at just what a proper 125 2T can do, add a 175 or better 4T and sit back and watch! Many have already done it with the Scorpa!

Decide if it is chain speed, wheel speed or other. Put a piece of tape on tire and watch its rotation, Same with the chain, use paint on a link and look down. Likeky a noisy chain that has issues or needs a lube my first guess. Yes, these rotate at different intervals.

Oh man am I sorry! I thought you wanted the Ryanair(or whatever) as you are Southern! And a B&B for shelter! All in good sport really! I do like your comment on the sympathy factor! Go for it man! Best to you!

Prolly better than ours as I get it, but somewhere along the line I believe he stated just getting the regular gas and not the 98 RON or whatever you call it. I would think if these Raga bikes do come with the high comp head they will surely need it!? as most the bikes seem to anyway. It always amazes me the tangents some get onto with no comprehension. Some seem to think it need an overhaul! Water got into it through the sidecase so made it ping! and hesitate!

You drive on the right(correct) side!

I wrote a scorning dissertation on this last night. By some means the tinternet went tits up and lost ot all. I would go with this setup mentioned, and in the 48-50 range on the pilot. Airscrew should wind out to .05-1.5 range. Go with the best fuel, as the things may have a hi-comp head on them. Smoking after a good uphill run is normal, as you finally managed to get a bit of heat into the exhaust to burn out some the oil that has layed up in there! Need to do it more often or a good drag race or two to blow it out!

Urine!

Even water can do it! It lies on the bottom of the bowl and blocks normal flow of fuel to the slow jet. Ck your fuel cans too! I will empty mine off in a clear plastic pop bottle just to see what comes out! Yet another issue with the alcohol in your fuel. It can absorb moisture into solution, yet can also separate out! This is another reason fresh is best!

There you go man, good job! You can probably get one of them pitbike coils off fleabay cheap! They NEVER FAIL!

Bigmark, if you can hook up with Zippy and the others up there, they can help you a lot. Zippy needs a purpose in life and an excuse to get out of town, so PM him. Little Mark

Lineaway, are you thinking what I am thinking?

Oh man, you are a basketcase! So you thought you remembered how to ride, huh? Your story is a lot like mine if you set all back another 15 years, you have a lot to re-learn, so adjust! You are a big boy, and that has its advantages and disadvantages, you are not the only one! I am not, though. You will love trials bikes, but trials is like golf, and frustrating. Add the fact that the bike will put you on your butt quickly, you need time on the bike to adjust, drop your body, keep keees out and bent slightly, along with elbows. do not hug the frame with your feet, let the bike move under you, and stay centered! Relax your death grip, use peg pressure to turn the bike and lean it proper direction. Stay centered! Bars should be vertical or a bit forward to give you some room on the bike. With a crossbar, I like to be able to put an allen wrench on the front mount hole and bring the crossbar back to touch it, you can go a bit more forward if you like, but that is a decent start. The top clamp on that year sherco is made with the lower bar mount cast in, so risers are not common. The standard Sherco bar is a 5" rise, but 6" rise are out there, and may work for you. We shall see if there are any local, but for now, ride, ride , slow turns, figure 8's , learn clutch control(your bailout tool), ride! There is your first putting lesson!

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("They almost never fail."). I seem to recall Dougie loosing a SSDT on that principal! Ha!But that was a Beta I think!

Yes, the expensive Tergo and Beta exhausts will wake up the heavilily muffed bike. Otherwise, put you stock gears back on.

Do the math lad, 10/42 gives you a 4.2-1 ratio. 11/44 gives you 4.0-1 ratio. What do you want?