copemech

Wulfsport good for the money!

Who are you visiting Biff, are you talking about (oh jeez, what was here name)Martina?

One thing to keep in mind here ids that it is basically a flyback design, so if you let up on the lever gently it may not fully reset. If it returns most the way, but lacks the last bit, you need to let it fly back to the stop.

Oh No!!! You pulled the sticker!!!!!! Is that old tank orig silver with the orange decal? or otherwise?

I used an adjustable spanner for axle nut/chain adjustment for a long time in my trials toolbox. Eventually bought a dedicated 24mm spanner

Change the sparkie first, just in case. Then proceed with the other.

Pay particular attention to the bits in the reading that state "DO NOT RUN THE BIKE AFTER WASHING WITHOUT CHECKING AIR FILTER AND BOX FOR WATER!" OR JUST REMOVE IT AND BLOCK THE HOLE BEFORE WASHING IS SOMETIMES SIMPLER!

Good on you, you told him off as he is a mean old nastybutt! I have a talk winch, she can talk yer ear off!

Good reading here! http://www.shercousa.com/?action=6

Never mind then!

You see DBF, you learn something new every day! Do you do any spark plug maintenance?

If you are sure carb is slamming shut, it would normally require a fair leak to cause that type revving, as the seals just normally go to irregular and floaty. Shoot the area gently with some wd40 or carby spray to see if it picks up quickly.

That is what beer and a heater in the shed are for! Get-ur-dun then man!

Makes no difference because it is self adjusting. There is a torque spec listed in the torque spec pinned thread on top the Sherco forum.

Sorry I could not get the thing to work last night. What I was going to say was that I HAVE RIDDEN A BUTTLOAD OF BIKES THAT DID THIS OVER THE YEARS, MOSTLY MIKUNI OR KIEHIN CARBS! The idle speed thing is a real deal I think, apparently they do not all have issues because there are few mentions of it on the forum, however being aware of just how finiky a kiehin can be at times, I keep the 26mm Dellorto on my '12 bike. Everything is a tradeoff, but I do not need the added power of the kiehin, or the other potential issues. I have also learned to anticipate this on some bikes, and give a few blips of throttle to keep them cleaned out so a non issue.

Yes, if it is too tight it will not float over bumps and maintain grip, kicks up and off loosing grip. The damping slows this kickback to maintain contact. With the bike set vertical under its own weight, the rear should kinda float up and down when gently moving the mudguard, and the 25-30 mm measure from pulling full up. I do not know the year, and shock orientation varies, so adjusting the rings for the spring does as well, ideally one has a spanner that fits the adjustment rings, others use a screwdriver to tap them around, some years use a small allen set screw to lock the nut so you must find it before turning or you will mess up the threads. ALLWAYS adjust with bike on stand and weight off the shock, The standard preload on my later model spring is only about 5mm or so from full out. Half a turn on the ring makes a difference. And once again, you may want to test your shock by removing it, then the spring and insuring it requires 60-70 lbs to compress it against the gas pressure inside and that it does indeed have fluid damping and smooth operation on the return, because if it is nackered, you will never find grip with it.

I would think somewhere in the 0.6-1.00mm range would be normal for such things.

Last Beta 250 I rode was a really smooth bike and well finished, each has its pros and cons. If you for some reason cannoy use your left leg, then you cannae start a Beta, but for me, I have a difficult time starting a Gasser, so I ride a Sherco, all personal pref.

You need some static sag(weight of bike only) in the 25 mm or so range, adjust damping to taste, there needs some to slow things down to grip without bouncing off everything, so slow it down then bring back as your skill requires. A pogo stick is good for hopping, but not for finding grip!

I am not sure if the standard Denso plug is better than the NGK, but mine has been in for over a year without issue, so it works it seems. I still have a couple NGK Platnum stashed away, but have not needed a change.

A clean "11 Sherco 250 listed in the Offroad Mart for far less than that! 250 is a pussycat!

There you go mate, should work!

Gotta pic? Best I recall the return spring must be spread to enguage a pin on the case so the arms if it are parallel and all goes into position so the pawls align with the drum and pins. Pthe pawls will simply ratchet when the drum rotates. Although, you may need to turn the chainwheel so things align and enguage fully to the next gear selected, as one may not necessarily just fly through all gears while stationary simply because you are moving the lever.