copemech

Your original comments stating that it will only idle on choke points to a fuel/mixture issue. Ignitions can do some weird stuff at times, but not usually like this. That ignition does not know if the choke is on or off! The initial water issue is a major factor here. Hopefully things are really clean by now after all this tinkering. I would carefully remove the carb and break it over a pyrex or clear plastic collector to see what comes out the bowl. Using a light you may find small debris or water droplets. Clean out the jets again with a fine wire. You can spray around with carby spray to detect air leaks if carefull with it, try WD40 first. M2C

That should fix ya I would think!

I had a wheel builder do this to me once, as the rim is not centered on the hub from factory. Requires some time, but if you back off the tight side spoke nipples and the pull it the direction it needs to go with the other side and do them all evenly, things should likely work out with a pull of a couple turns on each spoke nipple and equal reduction on the other side.

See how it does when hot, as the pistons are moving now that is a good thing. The problems come in when the fluid expands with normal heat from use and has nowhere to go if the MC piston is not returning fully to open the return port within. This happens in the last little bit of MC piston return travel and is regulated by internal spring unless blocked by debris or corrosion. Slack in pedal does not insure full piston return and a mm or two makes a difference.

Voice of experience right there!

Yes but you need to use the silicone pasty grease to be inert to the rubber!

Add, get the boot off and inspect for a cut or small entry point of water if corroded/ dirty. I repack mine with selecone grease. The way to see if the MC is holding pressure is to crack the bleeder when dragging and hot to see if it relieves pressure.

Many clubs have someone available to help novice riders around an event. Just ask, and participate is usually best!

That looks quite nice actually for a spot repair. I would go to a reputable auto paint shop and have them clear coat it with a good 2k fuel resistant clear coat as used in that arena. Should shine like a new penny! As a side note, tarnished bolts are cheap to replace at 30p each or so on average, so one may freshen the bike for a tenner in most cases!

No s--t/ 1+ for you~ hope that all works out!

I think you are in the wrong region Dabster. But there are some good lads up un that area. Hopefully some may kick in, yet if not we should be able to assist if he gets on the Beta forum. Obviously confusing, but W state is west coast and W DC is far east. Welcome Blackdog!

No Idea which carb you have but principal is the same regardless of bike, carb or year. ANY dirt particles or water droplets will cause this. You may never even see the culprit in a routine cleaning, yet removing the pilot jet in particular is recco so you may find a small strand of copper wire to pass through to insure there is no blockage from an opaque bit of sand. Blow out passages to insure no issues there. Absorbed moisture will settle out of the alcohol induced fuels. Condensation from your supply can may effect things. It can all come into play, so CLEAN is the word. Carbs must "breath" as well, through the bowl vents, which are also a potential entry point for water and dirt. May occur when washing or riding the bike, all things to keep in mind. All said, start over clean! Insure everything!

See if this works for youhttp://9gag.tv/v/3397

Makes the clutch sharper, like yer head!

A 125 should hold clutch well enough with two opposing springs out and make it a bit smoother on progression. However, all that rev and pop stuff will not work in the slick mud or even grass. If you want a good example, just find a slick turn and put the bike into third gear. This forces the clutch use for feel of traction. Rev the motor all you want or need, but the clutch application must be smooth feeling for grip and hopefully keep moving smoothly brcause starting up again causes more issues. Smooth and progressive finds grip where there is little!

Your little area is fine. I see you have yellow paint on the tire and such, about where your front tire needs to hit for a decent zap! If you want something to work on, pull along the tire parallel, float the turn 90 degrees, plant the tire and zap it. Might start off with a 90 floater on a smaller log so you can just lift front over and run until rear hits to grip. Your floater will apply toward your camber turn down then back up as well. You gotta poke the pegs to make the bike move and stay in the float. Opposite peg pressure will just straighten you out and not stay in the turn or float, just saying!

Bigger splatters require less brains! Just more revs and dump the clutch! As a clubman, your time is better spent on basics like floaters and perhaps learning to move your rear wheel.

Pretty much as stated! You can still get a small rock to get more height on that for a splat! Coming in a little tighter(they do not allways give you much space) you will need to place the front wheel and zap it to get the front lift and skidplate over.

Fact of life, if you build something too well you will eventually not sell enough to make a go of it! I loved a quote from Ryan Young one time we were riding! "Go For It!, I need to sell a fender!"

What are you on about? Do you mean the clutch does not disengage(plates stuck)? This is normal! I was a Honda race mechanic. I rode p*** out of them than had to keep them running!

Biff mentioned new diesels here 2015 Ford is delivering the full size transit over here with an awesome 5cyl diesel, na 6cyl or Ecoboost. GET SOME! I drive Cummins diesel, and I have waited a long time for highly efficient euro diesel tech to arrive here. I am also well trained in the newer US emissions systems and other garb that goes on them, and quite frankly, with the added cost and complexity, the 20% higher cost of fuel, and add the DEF(if you do not know what that is look it up) I would not have one or recommend one as compared to current gas motors. If you need a heavy hauler, you have no choice, but for lesser tasks, the costs and maintenance issues are no longer worth it as the EPA has ruined the small diesel market along with much higher fuel costs than gas. They are a techno nightmare when things go wrong, trust me!

No, but typically I may dump the bike with others who may be camping at the site, or back the truck up just outside a motel door! I keep a 9mm chain on things if you know what I mean!

I work on Dodge(ram) vans for a living. With the minivan I am not sure you could get the bike(s) in the rear without at least lowering the bars. Two bikes would fit easily with gear and two people up front. They drive like a car and are nice on the highway, yet not built for offroad any more than a full sized ford or chevy which do drive like a truck, because they are! I have seen pro riders yank the fork tubes out with wheel, pull the real wheel and slide a bike into the luggage compartment under a motorcoach like a banana! Takes a few minutes each way going in and back, but no big deal. And BTW, I like the new Ram Promaster for a big van! Stand up room like a Sprinter and run great on V6 gas! If I had a business use for one(dual purpose) I would have one quick! For now I will keep my truck!

I seem to recall the raga using a different reed cage?

Lots of bike info here! http://www.shercousa.com/?action=6 Ck out splatshop.co.uk as well