copemech

You are also a racist against Bukganineese and Arabfeckinshts, an I have been personally offended so I may sue you!

Not quite sure about Donald here, think he is saying I am a bit over the edge? Should have said: "Eh up Hillary, hows about a little ankey-pankey! And a job! Can you get me a job?"

Your altitude above sea level is a non factor really. The temps and baro effect more change than your altitude where you are. If you want to see these changes, plug your numbers into a "density altitude calculator" google it!

Unfortunatly the lower bearing itself on the steering stm and lower fork clamp can be a real pain to get off and back without damageing things in the process. After doing a couple these, I soon found it easier to keep them well lubed to prevent water entry and pitting. They can be soo tight on the shaft that splitting the bearing is neccessary, or freezing before the press process. Add to that freezing the ali and heating the new part prior to install. So, yes, best left to those with the gear to do it!

Billy, you better be damn glad if I do! You see whot I said in point 6! That applies to you! I don wanna here your whining when I lay a 5 on ya! I got a new (er) bike, so getting ready!

Class that is!

The question itself is too general. Things do vary a bit carb to carb and bike to bike, then you add dirrerent fuels, and then personal prefs and expectations. Then throw in cold or hot temps and such. Long story made short, if it runs fine at your current settings and you are able to set the fuel trim screw to a decent response, then you do not have a problem. I can tell you you are in the window it seems, now if you have a problem say revving out cleanly and quickly, you may want to go back to the 118 main jet. Call Splatshop Chris for further generalities!

Here you go!

Bitches from Hell! How did Monica save that sweater? Can't blame him! Eh up Hillary, hows about a little ankey-pankey! And a below-job! :wall:

Ok well, I think it is kinda like this on the jetting thing. Back when your bike was new, it seemed we all got along quite well with jets in that range. Seems fuel has changed over the years, and of course the alcohol is a big part of it. This could effect the seals as well. Your jet issue with possible dirt is a constant given as they are sensitive. I use a fine wire to pass through the hole gently as a cleaning tool that is hopefully non abrasive, then cleaner and air and such through all the other passages as well. Evertyhing here is critical, and it will get dirty again in time, depending. Many times you may never spot the culprit! I like my pilot jet large enough to where I can actually get some range out of the fuel trim screw as compared to simply running it out to the effective limits of around 3.5 turns and leaving it there where more is not better and less sucks. I can actually adjust mine on the day and the temps, and comes in closer to the 2.5 range mostly, may need more in cold temps, and less when warm you know. I am at 38 on our fuel. Too large and you will get a blubbery transition to the needle at 1/8 or less throttle. Go by local referance if you can, for your area, but I think 36 is common in UK now. If it runs well with a clean carb, then all is well, yet I will tell that the odd occasional unstable operation at lower revs is a symptom of a seal issue. The seals are not all that difficult to change with a bit of proper gear. That in itself is a minor repair, not an overhaul.

Poor Bill!

Martin, We have endured such rules before, and you see others opinion of no-stop. As I recall, one could not even hop sideways at the time. Yes it may be good to openly discuss. More than just no-stop, well that is another deal. I have lots of opinions, but ! As I usually also believe in "shup up and ride what you brung" , you have now got me started. 1- Trials bikes come in two versions- Jap Crap and Euro Junk. The first tends to be more reliable, yet comes with a price, and weight. The second may be more performance oriented at the cost of maintenance and repairs, add reliability. Life has been this way for as long as I can recall with the exception that many years ago Jap Crap cost less than Euro Junk. 2- I could care less what the FIM does! (with exception) 3- Face fact, modern trials bikes are not really practicle for other things such as trail riding, they are too specialized. No wonder they do not sell outside this limited market. High maint jickey fragile short range stuff that is uncomfortable to ride is not a turn on for most. All of them should be required to produce a long range bike that is convertable and practicle! Look at the Ossa Explorer on a Trials frame! It can be done! The old Beta Alps and the Pampera were not too far off the mark, but could use improvement. There is a new Sherco and Scorpa out, but ? Point being, the bike needs to be easily converted from trail to trial, and if this means supplying a mudguard and tank with the bike then so be it, as this plastic is cheap. OK, so My bike has gained a few kilos and now weighs only 5 pounds less than a 4T Montesa, how did we manage? OMG! 4- CC limits, really? Ok, Is there really anything I need to see that a good rider on a 250 cannot do? I doubt it! 5- Weight limits, well first take magnesium out of the bikes, we do not need it. Useless junk. Frame must be durable enough for trail riding so you gotta put some meat in it! So all ride current or pre- production bikes available to all. If a company wants to sell Titanium, then let them, but make it available to all if they want to take things to a certain limit. 6- Last but not least, stop for 5 is still too harsh for clubmen as strictly observed. If I were gonna do that, say at SSDT, I would likely start a riot for all that hesitated, and they would likely buy my return airfare and ship me home for free! Same for clubs and nationals really, hesitate and you are OUT! Is that really the spirit of the sport? Screw that, I may just continue my effort to not wear the bifocals when attending. All gets a bit blurry you know! Need beer now, Chow! Ciao!

Nick asked for reading material as well. Ok, there is lots of good stuff to watch http://trialstrainingcenter.com/how-to-ride-motorcycle-trials/introduction-to-tutorials/ here. The Ryan Young basic training video is also a highly reccomended standard. Available at RYPUSA.com Not unlike MX as well, a good rider on a 125 will allways beat you. Not to worry though as we are pretty laid back and everyone rides at their own level of comfort and you do not have to ride anything you do not like!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Most of us still have to go to work on Monday!.

Most any brand 250 from this decade will haul you around nicely. Gas Gas , Sherco, Montesa, Beta, Scorpa. Parts available, and many things interchange. Trials is a Control game, the many times the bigger bore bikes (280,290,300) can be a bit more or a handfull, even for a young fellow like you. Your needs may change in time, but for now, buy upon condition. Not unlike MX, a well kept gently ridden older bike is better than a totally flogged newer bike. Another thing, most bikes can be shipped for 2-3 hundred bucks. So say someone like Lewisport in CA has a bike you like, or mike at Tryalshop in NY, you get the message, not that big of a deal to ship it. Typacally a Scorpa/ Yamaha or Montesa Honda 2stroke would be you old reliable standards, but it is getting harder to find them in good condition. The Beta, Gasser and Sherco 250's are scarce, as most bikes imported were the bigger bore bikes, yet there are bikes out there. See what you can locate and if you can hook up with some locals for an outing. Let us know how you get on! Cheers, MC

Yes thats funny! Knowing nothin, I was gonna throw into the original post there was a Wullie at ORM! Having dubts about being the same, I refrained. He actually sent me a PM once, Hi I'm Wullie! Nice enough I suppose, Now that tie to Mairi! Now that is some info that explains a lot! Ha!

Right then, a number of issues to cover here. If the actual clutch lever feel is consistant, it is unlikely air in the system. If the lever feel varies on application, I would be looking at poor seals in the master cyl and a rebuild kit for it. It is somewhat normal for the plates to stick after sitting, yet this worstens with oil degredation and if your old oil was that bad then it may take several changes to clean things up. There are a number of reccos for oil on here, or ATF, but ck to see what Splatshop recco is, as I use Maxima at the mo but? If you are getting floaty idle and surge, the carb is still suspect and hopefully you are sure the system is flushed and no water or condensation. The pilot jet is critical it seems and needs to be clean and correct. As mentioned, it seems 35-36 range is not uncommon nowa in UK fuel, so you prolly need to know exactly where you are at in addition to insuring it is totally clean. There is a round part held by a 10mm head bolt where the fuel line enters the carb. Under that is the banjo screen, and it works well if intact. No need for inline filter on those as redundant. Generally, dirt and water may pass through the bore of the carb due to poor filter maintenance ans such, but it does not generally the float bowl that way. Most this either comes in along with the fuel, or from the bowl vents on either side which are open to atmosphereic pressure and must breath. I recco short tubes of around 50mm length here as crap deflectors and to help prevent water entry when washing the bike and such. Aside from carb issues, I think the age of the bike alone makes the crankshaft seals suspect and I would change them out for the Viton ones from Splatshop, all has to do with alcohol in our fuels. Duck tape at the mudguarg/ airbox junction with a drip flap formed in front as well, and if really mudy, put a strip along the side as it runs along airbox to mudguard. NEVER wash the bike without pulling mudguard and either blocking off filter hole or removing it after and cleaning up the mess you have made in the bottom of the airbox! Ta, let us know how you get on, MC

Hair drier and gentle persuasion works. Don't rip it off! If paint under the sticker has been broken from impact or someyhing, you cannot save it as it will lift with the sticker.

To be honest, I think all that was just a test from the Spanish. Brown, Wigg . Untill one is able to ride a 2.9 or 300 like a 125, there is no need for more power and it is a limp excuse. He is not on that level. Alexz is a good rider, what does he do on a gasser? Just saying, them spanyards are not dumb you know. Doubtfull they will let anyone screw with the good stuff till they have proven their prowess. (some young brits) Not like Alexz dad is stupid either, he could twist things up a bit prolly as needed, yet the new ignitions seem to be something of the limimiting factor back then if one wants to operate at 14,000 revs!

Shoulda made him do Hillary!

As it is a non issue at the moment, why are we worried?

All depends upon your prefs you know, but the lightness and nimbleness of modern trials bike can spoil you once you get comfortable on them. There aer several bikes that come to mind for your wants and the 4RT is hard to beat, yet pricey even used. The Beta 4T's and 2 are nice, and long range kits available. Same with the Scorpa Yams in both 2T and 4T. I have a Serow, have owned a 2T Alp in the past, but the big Alp has to be a bigger pig in the dirt than the Serow I would think! Flogging around another top heavy 50 kilos or more does nothing for me, as I am spoiled. The 250's are gentile for the most, yet will perform. Best of choices, try getting out and doing some testing

Install the hinge in the middle and it will be fine!

Better describe "clutch which is a bit temperamental" !!!!

Lots of good points made here on the topic to which I originally declined to open the can o'worms! You see the entire topic is rather vague because even in many if not most cases the folks that put out the specs did not specify dry thread or lubed thread and such. There are variables and then there are basic charts published for applications such as putting a certain size bolt of given hardness in a given substance such as ally or steel and it can vary quite a bit. There are certain bolts that are high stress and we take them to the limits of the metals elasticity by stretching them, and are one time use. They do make special torque wrenches for many production applications that only the factorys have! Or in a case of critical application, one must know how to do the math for a specific offset on a tool such as Ham has shown. As Dom states, this all becomes more critical in general with the small sizes, and feel it where it is at. Seems obvious I have given Baldi a bit of stick here intentionally as a joke, but I am sure he has a decent grasp of things. Only caution perhaps would be on them flywheel nuts in a trials application, as you may not want to risk one on the loose side of things! The origanal poster is prolly baffled by all this bs, but oh well, get a grip or let someone do it that has one.

Sick !