copemech

Yes, however the shocks must be designed for it. Seems most modern nitrogen pressurized shocks do not care. This would be much more relative in a twinshock application. In modern monoshock application, this becomes a mute point to me, primarily because the arm from swingarm pivot to shock mount is short, you do not need to move the shock a long distance, nor near as quickly as shocks mounted out toward the axle. As weight x arm = moment of the mass. Do the math. Thus, if you are concerned about the unsprung weight of your rear end, get a X-lite Mich on the back, a lot less weight to move further and quickly.

All good then. Yes, they are a pleasure to deal with and quite helpful. Not having done any of the plain bearings myself, a few potential issues do come to mind! As they are thin as compared to the roller"HK" type, finding the correct drift to press them in and out will be a bit critical. I wonder if the things will fall out if you heat the links in the oven? Splat Chris did a bit of research on the bearings, and they are actually designed for running DRY it seems, self lubricated. Now I have my own feelings about all that, yet I am not a bearing engineer. All said, he may have suggestions for you to save time. Do let us know just how you get on with it!

This guy looks familiar! Is he a Montesa Tosser?

There are many who would likely toss you a take-off!

I suppose the old 200 top would still fit the later motors, yet cannot confirm. I allways sorts wanted one till comparing directly with my old 125, and quite honestly could not justify the change to a 163cc motor. The new 125's are brisk on top, yet still gentile, and the only turu drawback is torque at low revs below the power band. All said, I have come to like the 250, and it can be softened a bit if needed, yet still has true guts behind it. Doubt I would ever consider the cost of an uprated 125, although sweet as they are..

One thing about US trials, not unlike clubs in the UK, is the fact we can choose as we like! On a club level we are not bound by anything, really! I like that in many ways because it allows the flexability of the Trialsmaster of the day to set the course accordingly and the rules of the day accordingly. Now as this may sound confusing at first, it really gives a refresh to the average event. Choose between simple things such as : Stop allowed No-stop Gate trials Timed trials Indoor style Then add variations such as : Stop for one Modified gate trials (Avahla rules) Team events All said, some may prefer one thing, another another, but keeping things fun and interisting is one key to good fun riding and club participation, I believe, and I am not planning upon riding any WTC or NATC events any time soon so let them do whatever they like...... There seems to me to be a lot of riders who are really "Hard Core" , good for them, we have a hard core class, a sandbagger class, god knows we have soo many classes it is stupid, really! That is another topic!

Doug, I have seen the knurled end about an inch long which was cut off handlebars for a kid, then pressed onto the nub of a shift lever with no tip. Worked just fine for Ronnie Commo! Got any old bars?

http://www.splatshop.co.uk/rep-neoprene-fork-guards.htmlThe Tech forks are 39mm diameter. Do you like blue?

You would want to disconnect the kill button for testing and also insure the earth point for the coil/cdi is good, but it sounds as though the ignition timing is going off to a retarded position or is set incorrectly. If it has just gone"off" the keyway on the flywheel may have sheared, or there are other possibilities such as a daft CDI unit and the next thing would be the daft stator plate with a bad trigger. No good way to test those other than trial and error and not sure where you are located, but if UK, I think Splatshop may have exchange stator and CDI new you can get and return the unused bits if need be. So get a flywheel puller and let us know how you get on, hope that helps! MC

It is NOT April yet! I think you need the S3 pegs, they are luverly! Regulatable, so you can move washer to gain 2mm !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Right then, I shall give you Beta lads a wee something to thing about on your Kiehin equiped Evos. On your conventional Kiehin PWK 28 carb, there is a tube that extends up into the bowl betwen the floats called an overflow tube. It is directly connected to an outlet which exits the left bottom of the float bowl. This tube is designed to provide an outlet for fuel in the case of a stuck float to prevent filling the motor with fuel, specially when parked. This "feature" will also promptly allow the bike to pee like a pup every time the bike hits a bump and fuel gets sloshed in the bowl, allowing a bit overboard, and out the exit pipe to vent. Thus wasted. Long story made short, BLOCK IT OFF! If your float sticks, your bike will flood just like any other bike has for generations, yet the chances are slim for a properly working bike. The actual tube itself makes the carb into a Chinezzse puzzle when attempting to install the bowl. I toss that as well and drive a sealing bearing into the hole! ps- your specific float level setting will aggrivate this condition, the higher level the more spillage, yet not eliminate it. Ta, MC

I believe some static sag is still important for the rear to float a bit and maintain grip. No specific info here, but I would shoot for 10-20mm range with your weight. With a heavier spring you might go 25 mm range

It seems to me there is very little free play in the linkage on my "12 bike which uses the plain bearings as compared to the older "HK" rollers. The older bikes seemed to start off from new with around 3mm slack at the rear axle(clearances multiplied by the length of the swingarm). Reports from reliable sources seem to indicate that the new style plain bearings will indeed wear of course, and are still succeptable to dirt and such, and a bike well ridden may require replacement of these bearing inserts in the dogbones at 6-12 months, yet I would still give it all a good inspection and cleaning and re- lube, at the other components still need to be greased and tight bolts! A slightly loose bolt on delta link or shock will slack things a lot!

fat-u-ous --- There he goes again! Can I be one too? I allways wanted to be impotent!

I could never ride that, might ruin it! Just give it to Ryan to hang on the wall of shame and be done with it! Go buy a real bike!

There is no perfect bike! The one you have is quite nice! Not much difference in others! If you really want a change, you gotta go ride the different ones according to your liking, yet the same motto applies, RIDE WHAT YOU BRUNG!

Makes no difference really, long as it fits. I seem to recall on my "07 I could not mount with spring up due to it hitting the frame, although yours may be slightly different. I generally prefer "spring up" for a few reasons, so as far as access to the adjuster screw goes, once set to prefs you can forget it anyway, and positioned up top(as on my "12 bike) it is a lot better protected, as they are succeptable to corrosion.

SXweet! Hey Doug, did you ever talk to Jim?

Now mind you, I have studied this for a number of years now, long before the new ruling. It seems to me the FIM video is indeed essentially correct in its representation of examples, so I am now fully justified in handing out a 5 for anything exceeding 500 miliseconds and I will adjust accordingly! There may well be a LOT of highly p****d riders, but who cares! I could take a really good fart in that time, and if you can't manage to get the bike going, then you are screwed! 5 for you--- Next rider ! I need to hand out some points here! This is fun! Come on guys, lets all go to TN and kick some butt! We need to hand them more than they planned for! I might see Bou on a 50 point day!

There are only two adjustments available on the stock shock, spring preload and damping rate. The preload would be set using the threaded lock rings on the end of spring Static sag(weight of bike only on its wheels) would normally be 20-30 mm range depending upon rider weight and prefs. Little screw on bottom would be return damping speed and should have 15-20 detent clicks and travel 2-3 turns round. Set somewhere in mid range to start, and if you want it quicker for hopping and such back off a few clicke untill you get it where you desire. If your shock has a knob on top, it is not the stock Olle and has been changed for something else like TRP so adjustment is done on the knob and the screw is for the nitrogen charge port as I recall so don't mess with it!

As you have installed jarger jets, you may indeed consume more fuel, yet I would think any difference minimal unless a lot of running at high throttle openings.

I am still waiting to see just how many of the Elder Statesmen of this sport will volunteer to observe at TN. You see we need your experience and knowledge to stand out there all day so the event may be done correctly! After all, you now have the guidence of an official FIM video!

You need to know the sizes, as "12 spec means nothing here that I know of.

A lot depends upon just how much you like yellow! A "12 model with formuls brakes may require the updates for the master syls, but otherwise the bikes are not a lot different. Buy upon condition! The bikes are nice and suspension much better than my "07 was!

This gets VERY involved, depending upon what one needs to repair.