copemech

Here is a link I like. There is more info on the site. http://www.shercousa.com/?action=11

Sounds bout right. The screw will be sensitive to within 1/8 turn, so you can adjust on the day and the temps.

Welcome, Browse through the similar threads here. A 250 is fine! You get what you pay for, you know!

No, as we do not even know what year bike or what you are trying to accomplish.dot dot dot!

Where have you tried? I know those things are typacally tough and hard to break, but there should be some out there. There may be a frw US sources as well.

Turning the bars is more a fine tuning device to your feet. Specially when they are turned and give you a bit of leverage. Like said, downhill puts grip on the front, add more leverage! One little exercise, though useless in practicle terms, is to sit on the bike with wheel either left or right at normal range. On the side of wheel closest, put heel on ground and toes into front spokes using heel for kickstand, then place other foot into spokes approx opposite side for opposing force. One can just sit there balanced using the front(and bike) to rock under them with the feet!

Thankfully, it seems we have some remote dedicated areas that allow that type stuff. It does seem a bit ironic to me that the hard core rock crawling guys use similar equipment, though very low geared like a trials bike! These guys are a different breed, and although they may make some noise, they will literally crawl the things up and through terrain like this, allmost effortlessly, and usually quite slow and little footprint! TBH, I was actually quite shocked a few years back when they ran the Red Bull Last Man Standing event at our local riding area. Whatever the number, 150 or so of the top enduro riders over the weekend managed to wreck the trails, rut out the creek crossings and such to an allmost impassable state for the regular trail riders. Looked like hillsides 100 ft accross were bombed! All Gas, no brains!

It does pay to keep your rear end clean, as otherwise it can become quite painfull! All joking aside, at the cost of the HK bearings and such, one might consider changing over to the "11 dogbone links with the plain bearings, or as some, just go with the bronze bushes.

Something to watch! Not that I agree with all this, as this is like trials vs enduro style! The true rock crawlers do not do this style!

There could possibly be something to this, referred to as "oil run-off" which would be more an issue in a 4T motor on valvetrain issues and such, yet a lot would depend on the specific brand and their additives. In a modern 2T, there is not a lot in there to rust! With nikasil bore and such. Honestly I would be far more concerned about other poor maintenance practices and the fuel itself. Things like putting a bike away "wet" after washing and inducing water into air filter come to mind. After that, some may do a quick start and run after to INSURE that moisture gets sucked into the motor prior to shutdown and prolly washing some dirt through with it.. Along with that, we have our CRAP alcohol induced fuels which are hygroscopic and hold water. At least untill it falls out of solution and fouls the fuel system and carb prior to getting sucked up into the motor! You can bet you are actually paying for water and condensation at the pump in many cases, couse it just gets absorbed into the fuel and passed on to the user. Thats how things work! And we are talking still short term storage here! So there are things I would be more concerned about! Drain your fuel! Insure your tank and cans are clean! Insure your air filter is dry! And after saying all that, if you are still worried, bring the bike up to compression stroke before storing which will shut off the exhaust port to air and condensation, and use a good quality oil of your choice!

Makes your rear end feel good!

I think Zipper is snowbound again! He does this stuff in the winter, you know! Wears the wifeys nylons to spark the "happy spot" then rubs his nose!

Never heard or had in issues switching between the two. It is the Castor based oils you do not want to mix with. You will find many opinions out there, yet I believe any high quality Semi or Full will work just fine in a trials application at rates of 80:1 barring high speed roadwork. My current opinion is that the full synth tends to basically burn a bit cleaner in the sense that the consumed product seems to build less hard carbon deposit in the exhaust and migration out the pipe is better, reducing those concerns of repacking and cleaning pipes and muff. The difference here may well vary with riding style and use, particularly just how much heat you keep in the muff to keep things flowing. An occasional good hard run does that for you and is recco for any of them, specially like you may have seen some bikes smoke like a chimney after a good long hillclimb. You can bet there is a lot of stuff in the pipe that needs a good blowout!

I have not seen any of these produced, and possibly for good reason, as thread contact on similar soft metals usually does not work out well. Throw in dirt and water and possible corrosion and you may have more than you planned for.

The 315 is a great novice bike, if a bit heavy, and sluggish compared to some. There were few 250 Shercos brought into the country of that year, as most are 290's and are a bit more brisk! I have ridden a 2000 model 250 and it was a docile bike, seems at some point in the timerange they perked them up a bit and even a 250 was quite snappy even compared with a 290. Not sure about the "01 model. I would think it is worth a look if in good shape, go ride it and see what you think for yourself. It may need a few bits, but they are not a bad bike. Very rideable a decade plus later!

Any good? They look the stuff! The new ones for the US market will be built in Mexico it seems. Roumour of a new 3.0 Itialian diesel in them.

Not to worry, it will be fine on that at 80:1 as well. The stuff lubes fine, I would not porr in that much under normal trials use.

Dabster, what are the Fiat vans called there? Seems as though we are supposed to get what is referred to as Ducato later this year, looks like a Sprinter sorts. They will be called Pro-master here.

Ben, the 250 is not overly aggressive and a nice bike. Yet there are a couple options for your 125. The standard Gasser 200 top end will fit right on(173cc as I recall) and is a sweet bike even for adults. The other option would be the S3 225 kit which would likely require the added flywheel weight kit. Yes, a 125 requires more rider input and revs,but it makes them a better learning tool. I will add to this, you need to go watch a champ event or WTC youth to see what a 125 will do. I honestly doubt you are there yet, or really need more! You just WANT more!

I would say go with the 36 pilot, and order the Viton seals from Splat shop, unless he suggests other jetting. Standard recco is 98 RON for uk fuel as I recall. Pull the mix screw and use carby spray to insure passeges are flowing well to the two tiny holes in the bore of the carb. Tank clean, fuel cans clean, and I mean NO water or dropout condensation.

Name them so they will be famous!

Note rhe PHBL and H float height specs in that article are incorrect!!!!!!!!!! Parallel is a key word in it, though, and should measure about 18.5mm.

Riding can be fun! Sports Suck! Look at this sport! Do you think Martin or Noel will volunteer to observe a section in TN? Stand there all weekend and take in the sights! I am sure we need experienced observers, and their job is what? To hand out points! That is what we do and that is what makes it a SPORT! I do believe it needs to be easier to administer points to riders. Many complain about scores in single digits, yet the course verges upon killin off others. No wonder riders are scared to progress to WTC level, heck, we only have about 2 that may muster a decent run at the JR class in this point and shoot environment. Even setting a section for advanced riders on a National or Regional level can be tough without getting someone hurt. All said, I admit I am torn on this subject, yet at the same time I believe stop for 5 is too harsh in its strictest sense. Same with brushing a flag or marker, but that is just me.

Go back about three pages in this Sherco forum to the November timeframe and you will find my post called Sherco Clutch Mods. So in answer, I do things a bit differently, takes more time, and is a PITA! But my clutch works luverly and does not stick after sitting.

Well, nice to meet you Mr Nelson. Hope you are not totally snowed in.! Actually, I think you have me confused with Jon Stoodly as he usually does that tech inspection stuff. He is the old mean guy! I am the younger nice guy! (I think he will find this!) On honing something that small, yes I suppose it may be nice to have a small specialty hone the proper size. However, thoughts do come to mind here. Not having seen one first hand, I have no idea just how much scuffing you may find there, yet if something that small is badly scored or pitted, it may be ruined to begin with, so logic dictates only minor scoring as a repairable condition. This being the case, I may opt to simply do soomething like glue and wrap a small wooden dowl with crocus cloth then spin it in the electric drill or something to clean her up. Far as I can tell, one should be able to run the DOT 5 without issue, long as everything is cleaned and flushed from the old stuff. Not sure why you would have swelling problems before with proper seals? Cheers, MC