copemech

Good info for some there Jonny! Thankfully, my "12 has the AJP installed, which is fine for me, yet others may need this. I am amazed at the number of components in the system, yet if it works, it works, some seem to like it ! I thought you were Jono English, guess not. Are you east or west? Cheers for your work there! MC

After another look at those pics, a couple things struck me. First, I do not recall the banjo fuel inlet angled rearward on any my bikes. Seems yours is angled back 20-30 % where it should be angled forward the same amount. This may put undue stress and restriction in the place the hose split as the hose must run forward to the tap. Then the crankcase vent tube(below inlet) shuold run up and over the left side of the carb, then accross the inlet and back to between the banjo inlet and carb body to hold it, then down to the skidplate area. Second, I do see you have hose on the bowl vents. These hoses should be trimmed to around 50mm length if you are running them at all. In most cases, the fuel line requires enough length to run its course from the banjo, forward then left accross the engine inlet to make a gentile sweep accross and near the clutch cable, then forward back and over to the tap. So the hose sits on the inlet and is not pinged against the muff in any way. This little loop still only requires about 6 inches of hose.

Well, some progress it seems! No the 36 is not soo large to cause any of that. From what you describe, it sounds as though it is running out of fuel With the running on choke thing, this is still an indication of no fuel. Start again with basics, pull the tank and open the tap to insure good flow, even a blocked vent can prevent flow to carb. See if you can get a spanner on the bowl nut to break it loose to insure flow and float valve are allowing sufficient flow to bowl. Insure the vent tubes on either side of the carb are open so fuel can flow into the bowl. With your pics, things still look a bit grungy to me, and with carbs cleanliness is next to godliness. you should be able to eat off it when you are through, inside and out. Get on with it!

You are correct, and as with any bike, poor prep and maintaenance will catch you! Bikes like clean air, clean fuel, clean carbs good lube, tight bolts, simple enough. In answer to your original question, I would insere the steering head bearings have been cleaned and well lubed, the rear suspension linkage as well, as even with plain bearings, they do not like dirt entry. Insure the axle shafts are free and lubed to prevent corrosion as well as packing wheel bearings. The swingarm pivot bearings as well if it has been in a lot of water or mud. Just common stuff to think about.

I really enjoy this job, you know! It is like my other two jobs, at work and home, don't pay and all I get is a ration o crap! There is one thing I really like about this one though------------- I can tell all to F-off!

Do you normally pick up a decent MX bike for a song as well? You may like a 4rt, but you get what you pay for you know. Best off to sell the mx bikes and keep things that way! Your body will last longer! BTDT Got the T-shirt!,

Ck this out! Geez!!!!Over the edge!!!!! http://www.dcshoes.com/us/en/moto/air.craft

Not to disagree with the yorkshire sherco expert, I may only add if you are still getting proper "feel" of catch on the lever detent and such and one cannot even hold it in position to enguage gear, I would suspect a bent shift fork, and due to operating it this way for a while, the actual cogs may be damaged by rounding off the enguagement points on the gears themselves as they must slide together. All said, if you are not sure about this type stuff, send it off to your dealer for a refresh.

The expanding tank issue seemed a mystery to me for a long time. Yet it seems to be related to the alcohol in the fuels and the permiability of the nylon material. It does tike time for one to shrink, but they will it seems as time passes, not sure if one can accellerate the process of outgassing the material with minor heating or not. My tank on the "07 had grown at least 8mm and would barely fit, and due to some long periods of inactivity, I put the bike back on 100% AVGAS(aviation fuel) with no alcohol as it is totally prohibited. To my surprize, it totally shrunk back to original size after a couple months when I noticed it. This entire situation started a long time ago, when we were not SUPPOSED to get alcohol in the fuel, as it was not posted anyway, so I thought it was possibly just autogas in general, yet I think differently now. I have owned "01, "03,"05,"06,"07 and now "12 model, and within the timeline, seems they made changes to the petcock arrangement almost every year for a while there. Some had gaskets, others o-rings, and the cocks themselves were different. But long story made short, I had the best luck installing the slightly fatter imperial o-rings on those that would accept it. On my "07 the valve lever itself began to seep which is another story. Yes, you may need to rotate the carb in its mount" just so" to get it right! Ham2 must realize that I have to work you know, and by the time I get home and head to mancave, it is wee hours of the morn for you guys in the UK!

Whot Baldilocks said! The clutches may still have some tendancy to stick together after sitting up a while, never trust them, rock the bike in 4-5 gear prior to starting to break loose the plates. ATF will work but makes them a bit on/off it seems. I cannot tell the difference in map 1 and 2 tbh. Some have mentioned the airbox sealing, but I guess one can flog enough mud and water at anything and eventually get into problems. I believe the entire airbox assembly is updateable to the 12-13 spec for around 75 quid. I have never seen one fall apart, think someone is confused with a Beta.

It is all a learning curve in a way. Start off on a decade old bike that may need attention, then add your lack of specifics, it is all good. So, just how did it spill fuel overnight? Lets get her back to running first insuring the carb is good if possible. Is the bottom end full of fuel now? Tips: The float arms should be LEVEL with the bowl parting surface when inverted, measured at 18.5 or so mm. The tabs on the floats go down in the bowl, and the floats should have Alto marked on the top as I recall. Insure they are not heavy and full of fuel as one would sink. And the work freely on the rods. See if you can get it going and get back about the clutch as well.

The reason I mentioned tank expansion it the fact that in your first pic it seems sth tank is soo far forward it will not line up with the front mount and is at the point of near hitting the steering head. Need to get the front positioned then cram in the back if possible, otherwise you may have to shrink that tank! I have seen the tanks grow prolly 7-8 mm or more. BTW, I understand the tank material is a Nylon, which does not conform well using heat.

A Sherco is probably the easiest bike to maintain and parts are comparitvly inexpensive. I know it may sound daft, but you did'nt put the floats in upside down did you? Fuel on with enough in tank so you do not have to go to reserve? 7mm sounds about right, yet I have never had to bleed one that way. Even if there is air in it, removing the M/C cap and bellows and gently stroking the lever should let any air migrate up and out.

Soo, if I understand all that correctly you replaced the crankshaft seals and have not gone through the carb?

There is a lot of stuff behind the headstock and it should generally look like this: I cannot tell on your fan motor. Also, fuel tanks are bad about expanding with alcohol fuels and it may actually grow to the point it no longer fits the hole.

It means no stopping of the wheels basically. I have not read the exact verbage of the current rules, but my impression is the rider must maintain forward progression. No hopping sideways either. Now this can all get a bit tricky, because it really means forward in relation to the course, not the direction of the bike. The good riders are very good at doing some things like a rolling hop and such that stillows them to maneuver quite well in positioning the bike whyle maintaining dynamic motion in the correct direction, yet things git a bit confusing and then add the fact that momentary hesitation is seldome called. All clear as mud, you know!

"I think a Glasgow kiss or Glasgow smile may be in order here chaps?" Hank is still bigger than you, ya midget!

Right then, as Dom has linked the tutorial, one item of mention. After a quick review, I found no mention of inspecting the shaft for grooving of the seals. This is a critical point of this seal replacement thing and one may have recurrent issuse if a grooved shaft is not replaced. It seems the earlier shafts were a softer material and almost allways required replacement. Reports are that the later shafts are more robust, yet the fact there "is" a weep hole does in itself present the potential for dirt dust and water entry that may effect the shaft and seals, so once again, and in a more common sense area, this is why one may want to put a bit of lube in there on the seals, not onlt to prevent dry seals, but to deter or reject dirt and water entry to the seal lip area. Not a lot, just a bit! Do as you like and good luck with it!

Obviously Modifier is on the MO side of the line. No matter, if you meet Billy T. in person he sounds the same way. It's kinda like talking to a Mexican, you just say HU? a lot and smile! As long as you smile at him he is a happy lad! He is actually a very good rider and a smart fellow, but if you give him a 5 he goes back to Mexican mode very quickly, soo, we just smile!

Sounsd as though you are on to something there with the missing seal and wash. The carb should be clearly marked either PHBL or PHBH. The PHBL has none that other crap, jusrt the fuel trim screw!

Might try sourcing a proper hardened bolt from Sherco, as I am not sure that threaded rod would be up to spec!

The pump seal replacement tutorial is on the Sherco or RYP website. Suggest a review, but not a bad job if you do it right. Also a bit of silecon grease on the new shaft and seals is reccomended, or just regular grease is better than nothing at all. MC

Paddy McCoy, an elderly Irish farmer, received a letter from the Department for Work & Pensions stating that they suspected he was not paying his employees the statutory minimum wage and they would send an inspector to interview them. On the appointed day, the inspector turned up. "Tell me about your staff," he asked Paddy. "Well," said Paddy, "there's the farm hand, I pay him £240 a week, and he has a free cottage. Then there's the housekeeper. She gets £190 a week, along with free board and lodging. There's also the half-wit. He works a 16 hour day, does 90% of the work, earns about £25 a week along with a bottle of whisky and, as a special treat, occasionally gets to sleep with my wife." "That's disgraceful" said the inspector, "I need to interview the half-wit." "That'll be me then," said Paddy.

You may get by with that on smaller stuff, yet as things get a bit larger, you will do nothing but drife the skidplate into the oblect, killing your progress, using only the wheely. This is the point where you actually need the front wheel to hit the object in an effort to raise the front enough to get the plate clear! Yhis is often referred to as the double blip, where your first blip sets the tire into position and compresses the suspension to rebound up and off with the second blip, which all requires some timing and effort(add practice), yet a simpler method of single blip does exhist to where one simply approaches, then lifts the front and hits the object whth the whel on the way up as though you are climbing it. As long as the object is not too tall and you do not hit it too high to be ineffective, it works all in one motion. Just not as effective as a full plant of the front to compress the suspension more, but a good start for most. All point being, you need that hit to lift the front high, and without it you are done!

My eldest went to a turtle convention! wtf! Nerd!