copemech

Granted, yet you asked what advantage. Even messing with this stuff at home I admit I mostly doo by hand, yet in instances such as this the big iron comes out, and I am not waiting on special tools and gear. Going back without referance points is certainly not the desireable option, thus the markings prior to disassembly. Trust me, I use plenty o torque wrenches in critical applications.

You see! At least he admits it! Put the thing back proper you hack!

Here you go(beware language) TFT! http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=qHDdqubE7zQ

We need a narrow headed lad as well!

Grib and Glenn, I was very near making a quote on this issue in my prior post such as "There are really only two ways to do this "! I intentionally refrained due to the debate you two brought up. As example for grib. Time is money in my business. Fact is with proper tools I could concieveably shag that clutch out in under 5 min. Just how good is that wrench you have, lad? When was the last time it was tested and certified best of 5% accurate? May be one them Chineese imports for a tenner? Mind you, even as I say all that, I do doo most things by hand when not hurried. Feck knows Baldilocks is nothing better than a roadside hack job waiting to happen! Hell man, I have an electric gun that rips wheel nuts off cars and back! One has to be careful with this crap, it would shread that clutch nut! On the same token, I have an old Snapon 3/8 drive air pistol I thought I would use last time when I put crank seals in the "07. I t sounds good and works, but it would not drive that crank nut back to the orig mark at 100 nm! Feck me, I had to get the big gun and go gently! All just examples, so heed accordingly! Add another half to you lads vast experience and put it into application on a daily basis while applied to a mass of cars bikes and HD trucks and you get better perspective, you know! Just saying. Keep up the good work lads!

Laddie, we are trying to help here, yet the more I read from you makes me wonder if you should attempt this. You seem unprepared and have not absorbed the help already given. Again, the clutch basket replacement procedure is in a video on the Splatshop website, go find it and watch it to decide if you are prepared. Even with Chris at the helm of this, I personally might do it a bit differently as once again, I have tools such as PROPER air riviting drivers, yet that is another story. Another thing, if you think you will bring the nut up to proper torque going back with a standard hand ratchet and no holder to 60 nm you may be in for a bit of surprise! You would be better advised to etch or mark the nut and shaft with something like an engraving tool prior to disassembly so you can go back to original marks at least or slightly beyond and hope there is little to no varience in the new part. If one gets ham fisted on this nut and takes out the threads on that shaft, you are screwed! Something for you to sleep on!

Zipper, you hit it! For me, operating an air ratchet feels as normal to me as jerking off does to you!

Can we get Wayne on the show An Idiot Abroad?

Well at least you are honest! You prolly don' follow ours either, so I doubt you caught any of that dribble in the clear vial to see what was init! Finding these culprits is like panning for gold at times, but you may be shocked to see just what settles out of a tank of old fuel, specially with the alcohol. I usuly just cut open a clear 2L pop bottle. Of course, one needs to ck the cans as well periodically! Just saying!

Unfortunatly, if you want to be a mechanic, you must have tools for the job at hand. Otherwise, it is cheaper to pay someone who knows and does! There are detailed clutch basket replacement instructions on the Splatshop website. Good luck with that as well! I don't mean to be an ass, but that is the truth! I prolly got more in tools than you got in your car. So go figure!

This all becomes much easier when one gives up hope, and rides for fun!

Well, it sounds to me that you do have a good general grasp of the situation. There are a couple things I may throw out to you as suggestions. Insure the pilot jet is totally clean by finding a fine wire to pass through it. After sitting, they may develop what seems a skum layer within and without, if it had turned green especially. . Use the carby spray to insure flow throuth the two small passages in the carb bore as well. If one is indeed sucking air through the crank side seal, then blocking the tranny vent tubs should stop that, as a vacume develops.. As these are normally at atmospheric pressure, one may install a small clear hose just to see if the thing will suck water up out of a cup. Break the carby over a clear glass or plastic vial to catch the fuel. Finding water droplets in your stored fuel / tank is not unusual, and does not set well with the pilot jet. One suggested insuring the o-ring on the slide cap is intact, good thought on an older bike me thinks See how you get on, Cheers

Although I doubt this would be the bike of choice for a 17 stone rider, I feel as though a good rider could make one dance quite well. When the Scorpa/Yam 125 came out, we had one around for a demo bike. I could not get on with it, as indeed it felt much like a glorified TL 125. It was late in the day after a Regional trial, and we put the bike in the hands of one of the top National lads who happened to be there, a very experienced rider. Near dark, I followed him round the course and watched him managing to clean ALL the top local expert sections of the day, just flogging the hell out of it for all the little bike was worth. This made me think! In later years, I think it was Dustin Ginder on a 175 version at National trials. He rode well, and the little bike never winced! The things will run, but honestly I would not consider less than a 175 version myself.

As usual, yous got's to splain dat to me! I am not up on geordie slang! — pl n informal , derogatory ( Brit ) overdeveloped breasts on a man, caused by excess weight or lack of exercise

When talking of his wife's antique camera, a man says; "I've spent many a hot afternoon with my face under her hood, flicking away at that button, trying to make those leathery old flaps open up."

As many well know, getting tubeless tires to seal properly on spoked rims with a sealing band can be difficult for the most and near impossible for a punter or on a corroded rim. Many have suggested silecone RTV in the past, and other methods which may make a real mess of things if one has to re-doo it or adjust spokes. All said, I have found a substance of interist which is designed to accomplish a similar job on rusty car rims and such. It does work for said purpose. Thing about it is it applies thin as a brush on to flow into the area, yet as it dries, remainds rubbry to seal, and does not seem to stick hard to surfaces like RTV. It seems to literally rool off clean when needed so as not to make a mess of things upon removal. I call this the bugger effect! Call it what you like, but it seems to roll off when needed, much like that tacky stuff used when attaching cards in envelopes, know what I mean. I have not used it in a trials application, yet I believe it would work the trick, and worth further investigation so ck it out! Cheers,

Sofa is soo comfy!

I believe somewhere around a 2-3mm retard on the plate will help mitagate this with little change of performance. My thoughts,

I have made these in the past for my own use and must agree that due to the exposure on the sprocket side they take too much of a beating to be practicle. The stock plastic ones are inexpensive and disposable. Another thing to consider is the fact that one does not want something Soo rigid here to potentially break the mounts off the swingarm! The stuff I use is only 3mm thick, yet quite strong! Here is a pic of the one that survived for quite a while on my old bike, for the disk side. The disk is smaller, thus less apt for impacts, as well as havinh at least some protection from kickstand. I may decide to put it on the new bike and remove the plastic pos. Have not decided.(Note advert for JSE Racing)

Allways nice to be loved, Jon! Put your name on one of those, and we could be two sticks in the mud!

I would think most likely this would be due to the given pair of primary gears. It seems to me thay vary a bit from bike to bike and as nong as your dealer stated it seemed within normal range I would not be overly concerned. If things were to change or worsten you may want to re-evaluate at that time.

Not the clutch rattling. The primary gears rattle with the engine pulses, when you pull the clutch, this relieves some load, and rattle. They can rattle more using ATF, as it is thinner oil.

You should Clearly be able to Hear the carb slide hit bottom as you release the throttle. Clunk, Clunk! If not, you have a problem with the cable!

There are serial numbers listed on the download site!

Must agree with Dom on that. Any decent 125 will carry one along either gently or to the expert level. They take a bit more to ride well at higher levels, yet are a good learning tool for better teknique, add a lot of fun to ride for a punter! As a newbie/ punter/ wobbler, you may be better off, as even though weaker on the power, you build confidence! Now tell me just how fast is a hot(top) rider in MX on a 125? Think you could EVER catch one? Obviously you have never seen the lads in the youth WTC classes, what those bikes will do is awesome!