copemech

Now on this bike, the clutch hub and basket was not grooved, so I did not get into that. I will (on my bike) remove two oppsing springs upon reassenbly, and convert the bike to synthetic ATF for an ultralight clutch action. This is not for all, and not for more aggressive riders. Although I may still yet try it again, I have found in the past that running the standard light gear oil produces unpredictable feel when running the light spring effect and may slip a bit when slamming it in higher gears, but with the thiner ATF things seem to work well with the ultralight(1/3) less tension. Anyway, I can say I have never had the clutch stick after sitting in the last couple years with my old (07) bike. Although I am always cautious!

After doing the tabs on the frictions, I use the triangular jewlers file to just put a few swipes on a diagonal cut into each little pad. This allows oil and air in and out to reduce surface tention that creates clutch sticking after sitting. These plates did not seem to have a lot of excess glue as some I have seen in the past, so I did not mess with that!

The steel plates in this bike had some corrosion and sign of possible water entry which actually left an imprint of every friction pad upon them, so I ran them through my glass bead blaster to clean them up. The glass does a finer finish than sand, and typically works well, but I think my blast media is a bit old, so I did hit them with a 500 grit on the drill for a final polish and a like new smooth feel to start with.

Polish and radious the tabs on the friction plates, sorry pic! Then as you will notice the steel plates ar stapmed, and have a sharp trailing edge on one side. I also knock off this sharp edge with the jewelers file to keep things running smooth.

You may first read through the Dan Williams clutch mods on the Beta to get a full idea of things and the general principals. I appreciate Dan's efforts and these clutches being very similar, most all applies here. Having done my own experimentation, I take it a bit further to my own liking, therefore some of this applies to easy riders, and the more aggressive ones may not want to attempt some of it! It basically requires a lot of time and a couple of tools! A fine ******* and a sharp tri- jewlers file.

Ok, so I recently picked up a new(er) bike and I have to do my fettling with it. It is a "12 250 that has been ridden through our nationals this year and it is not too bad but needs a little attention. I takes me many hours to go through things as I can, and this weekends project was the clutch, so in this series I will throw up a few sorry pics from my phone and possible suggestions fro those who like to play!

I have had the carbs that the jets turned green as you state, and I can only suppose part of this is bue to the brass tarnishing, but the things also seemed to develop a scum layer that required a soaking in the carby spray and a lot of poking with the wire to get the scum layer off as it was just as thick on the inside of the jet orface as outside. My little tool is a fine wire off an old brush and it is slightly rusted and abraisive, so as to knock off some crud in the process, but you gotta be gentile yet! The carby spray, or possibly something like the wifeys Acetone nail polish remover may help break this dorn chemically!

The plastic of the airbox melts easily, and Brad at RYP has told me in the past that he has had good luck in the past by putting a long screw in the brass insert to use as a holder(with pliars) then heating the insert with a small torch and reinserting it into the hole to get the plastic to re melt around it and hold it securely. He also added it usually works once! Maybe! I think it would work better with some filler material shavings. Possibly a milk jug? When you install the regular screws, you just need to snug them, do not get too tight! I guess another thing would be an epoxy to hold them? Did you manage to get the hose on to the carb? I have siad in the past, you do not need a clamp on it after that!

You don't have to replace the idle jet, but you want to be darn sure it is clean. Find a fine wire to pass through it and blow out the passages. You did soo much jostling of things you gotta insure the basics are correct. Are the float arms setting level with the carb body now when inverted?

To be honest, I am not even sure which bike this is, need a lookup, but yet a couple things come to mind. Firstly, your headlamp and tail lamp would be your large consumers of available output. There are many LED replacement lamps available now that use a lot less of the available energy leaving more for the rest. I have not tried this mind you. LED's require forward bias and you state you have no rectifier, therefore they are just flashing quickly under forward bias? Another thing that comes to mind would be installing(building) a 9V rechargable battery pack into the system with a switch. The system would then require a rectifier for sure to charge the batteries.

And you ask this being the one who knows full well the defination of it in SSDT! Personally, I could give a crap less, it is indeed soo subjective, some were making comments on the vid by Cabby, stating he stopped! As example, I will 5 you for farting in the section if that is how we play, yet I still think none of this is in the spirit of the sport! You know, if they just want Hitler observers, just say so! F--k the lot! I would prefer that to some rider even toutching a marker for a 5! Where did that crap come from? O feck you toutched it! Well damn, you put it in the middle of the section! Where did that s--t come from?

Did Al make Margs as well as me? I know his wife cooked breakfast for all! I have not heard from him for quite a while either, need to ck up on him.

As the bike is a few years on now, and you prolly get the alcohol in the gas too, It does make the crank seals suspect if it is pushing oil a bit? Might try doing the test of finding you a clear tube and putting it on the vent externally to the side. Run the bike then see if it is making pressure or vacume to the tongue, or submerse in a cup of water for bubbles or suction.

That is cool!

See if it works, first, and if not, earth the other wire, possibly.

Another vid, lovely day at sunset!, I gotta get something better than the phone! http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=4GgISCvfHQY

Well, other than the obvious issues with cables and such, I would check to insure the SUHMIC(spousal unit and head mechanic in charge) had not washed the bike without checking the airbox.!!! What happens is, if you get anywhere these things with a hose or pressure washer, you WILL slosh water up and over/into the air filter and it will wash through the filter carrying dirt and grit with it. This stuff will lay up in the lower section of the airbox untill you go out and slosh it around a bit, then the grit and slosh will be induced into the carb and the grit will bind the throttle slide, even if momentarily. If this does occur, be sure to pull in the clutch, as that is your bailout tool! Then pull out the blanket, for the SUHMIC will be on the sofa for a while! If this has not happened yet, it will, so beware!

Welcome, It would help if you took a ride on some different bikes, but I will advise you to stick with something of the 250 range. That Beta is much gentler than the Sherco.

I took logic in skool an it is obvious you are fat, cheap and do not comprehend well, but I do like you! 1- Kicker is unlikely to fully return less you let it fly back. This is normal. 2- one puc is allways going to move before the other, life is not perfect, go figure! Order the Galfer pads from Splatshop, put them in , seat them a bit, then intentionally do a few hard stops and douse the disks with water and let them steam off a couple times, then you will know what you got, as them other pads are likely crap! 3- did you ask about a spring for your fat asss? I may also mention here the fact the rear delta link did change in 04 or so. The newer link seems to raise the rear up a bit. May be worth considering. 4- The forks do normally work, and there is some adjustability. You may add a bit of preload spacer, the standard oil fill is 330ml per leg and one could add a bit(10-20ml possibly) to tighten headspace of the air under compression. You may also compress the forks and vent the tops before a section to sag the front a bit for better turning, but the o-rings need to seal well, and I normally use a slightly larger diameter american o-ring to get the seal under vacume. 5% w oil is normal, you may try 7.5 for your weight. Now stop complaining and see if you can sort your clutch. Cheers, I will av another now!

If you can find an old Mont 250 it is a good beginner bike, later the better!

A lot of this depends upon what you prefer. Many new riders say the 2.9 is too aggressive for their taste, and although you are an experienced rider, you just gotta figure out your comfort level. Slow throttles are used by many to tame things a bit, my standard recco next would be reducing the ignition timing on the stator plate by 3-4mm counter rotation(relate that to as many degrees) which has a smoothing effect. See how you get on, there are other things.

Doug, I am allways open to suggestions! When I rode that bike back in March, it was very good to me. I don'n know if I told you , but I did recently pick up a "12 2.5, and it is still basically stock. It runs well, but not AS smooth as yours. Typacally in the past I have used the Boyesen reeds which seem to have a smoothing effect down low and made the 2.9's a bit less aggressive. On this one I have not even looked at the ignition timing, bit is does seem to chug well without stalling or kickback, so I may leave it alone. Getting back to Dom's original thread, my experience suggests these Dells, are just a bit less on the transition as compared to a Kiehin, and when you get into the range he describes, you need to back off the pilot. My best experience soo far has been to get them to lean smooth running at 2 turns out on the fuel screw(or so) with little(or no) blubber upon transition. To do that I usually need a 38 pilot for a PHBL on our fuel. Seems to me they are not the most consistant things in that range, but they generally do work. My motto is still that the Dell is the best carb that $15 will buy! I may need to up that with inflation ! Ha! Oh, BTW Doug, if Jerry had a "12 2.9 it will have the K carb unless he did something. One day I am going to do a U tube vid on this!

Call him, it is easier! Ha! Don't tell him I want to know! I have heard some of them guys like Jerry Young will do some grinding to change the slide lower profile!

I know what Zipper is referring to as far as the top friction plate. It seems they come that way. I can see this being a potential issue as the plates wear, yet I cannot think of any other reason to do it other than in an effort to help prevent chutch chattering when fully revving out the bike in gear with clutch pulled. Not uncommon!

Sitting is never good on things, then you combine other factors, it is not surprizing. Hopefully you got some Viton seals, reguardless of bearing choice!