copemech

Nice write up! Funny just how all that stuff burns itself into your brain when you are in the sections! (kick myself in the ass) Comes to mind later!

The cases and crank would be desireable for anyone needing them up through a '10 model 2.5 or 2.9 as I recall. There were changes, yet minor. The '02 had some odd lower gear ratios in first and possibly second, not that the gears usually break anyway.

1- Generally, the kicker likes a more positive engagement to prevent slipping. A light initial prod may get you a slip. 2- The spring is supposed to be better than that. Possibly changed. Is the ball correct? 3-I thought I recalled the '01 bike having the front 4 piston caliper, yet I could be wrong. Never the less they are strong if working properly. A new set of Galfer pads properly seated will likely cure that. What is in it? 4-5- The rear may be too soft for your weight. I cannot recall if this is a Sachs or Ollie shock, might check with Splatshop Chris for a proper spring. 6- They don't generally slip unless well worn and crap oil. Might even pull the outer cover to insure all the springs are installed as comeone may have removed a couple.. &- What do you want for L500 ? There is nothing on a Sherco another 500 will not fix from time to time!

Not sure just how many will respond here, as it seems many dislike the carb. I would guess this is a VHST 28? Although I have not messed with them by choice, I do believe there may be some validity to your suspicion you gotta run the 125 a bit rich on the pilot to help prevent hesitation when you wick them open quickly, although some just seems normal to me, even with the 26 PHBL. That pilot being S37 is fairly large, and I would be a few points down from that on a PHBL possibly, in 33-35 range, yet you may want to inquire with Splatshop Chris, as it seems he had the VHST fairly well worked out on his big bike and can tell you more.

Hijack- Hey Doug, any idea what jetting / reeds are in your bike(PHBL) from Jimmy? It is loverly smooth it seemed to me.

They are not generally too tight on the shaft, but just enough to where a puller with a thin edge works best as you may mangle things trying to pry it off. One young lad used an old pushbike pedal to make a puller.

Any idea what year? Yes it is worth some dosh if someone needs major components. But you may have to sit on it for a while.

The pipe needs to route down out of the petcock then bend to the left over the carb inlet towards the clutch pressure line then make a smooth u-turn back over the carb inlet to the carb. This routing maintains it off the muff, unless you just cram things in. Only requires about six inches of tube! I had a pic but I cannot find it!

Truth is I have been around here too long! And I do not have a £ on keyboard!

Put the feckin thing into 5th gear and rock it back and forth with your ass on the seat a few times till it breaks loose before starting. This usually works well, yet do not bet your life onit, as I have had them re-stick, yet not as bad.

Chuck, I have a saying! There is nothing another $500 won't fix!

Thank you for your report. Although self induced, at least it was not by you!

The updated sealed bearings of the later models seem to be the ones of choice. SKF 6206 2RS1 TN9 C4/GJN Available from Splatshop, along with the Viton(crank seals), this combo would be my choice. If you are quibbling over a few quid, I am sure you can find some Chineese made bearings for less! Having said that, fact is that standard open bearings of either C3 or C4 clearances do work, and have for years upon end. However one must agree that any open bearing is succeptable to whatever dirt that gets into the motor, and it will! Yet ones own riding and maintanence practices are just as important. Be your own judge, but when I do this type stuff, I try to use the best I can find, and I only want to do it one time!

Hello Ben, This aircraft has been in the hangar for refurbishment over the past ten or more years! Although I fly with others on occasion, there were times in there when I was riding a lot and nothing got done on the plane project, and then times when I was not riding, but just putting in labor on the planes paint work and such and small repairs. Your dad must be a top chap for all his hard work! one day you must ask him to arrange you a flight in a small aircraft, as this is the real grass roots of flying! Cheers, MC

Yea, well the damage is likely the result of the extreme forces upon enguagement of two ratios simultaniously. You still need to find the cause! A lot of parts may interchange, but you will need to check the numbers to be sure!

Sounds as though there is a shim washer out of place, allowing things to move about enough to actually enguage two gears at once(or next without fully disenguaging the other.)

Welcome, There are a lot of good riders up in your area! Get with the club and they can show you the ropes! You will be selling ORANGES soon!

Wayne, All a bit difficult to explain, as I go back more than two years from this original post it seems now! Soo close yet soo far! A few final bits of repair and refinement, such a radio repair and other things, as well as doing the inspections and books has cost a lot of time and money which are both in short supply! I am just glad it is flying again! Myself as well! Pity of it all is I'll prolly fly it for a bit then sell it off to start another project!

Short weekend, as I worked Saturday and the weather was crap, but got the honey doos done and went to airport late in the day to perform my required takeoff's and landings for night currency. Suppose there will be a few oppertunities to do some Christmas Lights flights coming up! Cielings were low, but vis very good and so I figured I would try out the fancy phone at night just to see if I could fly/drive and do that too! I only dropped it once! All good!

Plug your leaky bung on your carb, and use the WD on your chain! Works fine!

He was overdue for a new video as well. Great !!!!!!!!!

All good then you got it going. The one I had did have warppage in the steel plates, yet the new ones did not measure perfectly. Seems they are just stamped out! Tony, I would stay off the press with this. Rivets respond better to impact as compared to pressure. For one, I would avoid driving them with a free hammer, I think in this instance due to the proximity of the other components, I would use another bucking device in between so I did not hit things incorrectly. An example may be hammer upon hammer. Or in other words, placing one hammer(or bucking device) on the rivet tail held in place steadly, then impacting that with another to insure your striking hammer did not come close to gear and such. Of course, if you are as good as a cobbler, carry on! We use a variety of things to do rivet work on aircraft, primarily an air driven gun similar to an automotive air hammer, difference being the trigger is Very controllable by comparison. A flat end on one these makes light work of such a task. Control here being the key, as you slip off and you will likely damage something.

Soo, I am qurious what took you directly to the basket? Seem something you found obvious or evident. And you retained your existing plates? You stated the riviting was easy? What process did you use? Steel rivits are not easy to drive! Any pics?

I do not know that anyone has attempted it, yet I can tell you that starting with the '01 bike it was all different. Mudguard different, airbox(which butts to muff) different, frame different! Go figure! Let us know how you get on! The old ones are tecnically easier to do muff work on anyway! You are better off than you may know!

I cannot see the forrest for the trees!