copemech

Good to know!

Well, I would suppose you know to insure the pin on the master cyl is returning fully so no pressure is being held into the line. Other than that, the O-rings on the pucks are what actually flex and release tension on the pads, which must float freely. You did not put new O-rings on the pistons? If they are old they may have lost their flexability. Just a thought.

I cannot really think of anything but possibly a bent selector(lever) shaft making the thing stiff. Not quite sure just how a kicker spring is directly related to the chain off, yet were the pieces recovered? If you don't have some luck, I would possibly consider Splatshop Chris to give it a look (not sure where you are located), not that much to post it off anyway!

As I recall you must also pull the gear selector shaft to change a spring. Use the "clutch replacement guide" and the "engine teardown guide" in the pinned threads above on the Sherco website as a guideline. It is best if you have a rattlegun, mark and replace the clutch hub nut and do not overtighten. If the spring is broken, do not ride the bike!!!! because if the broken part of the spring gets into the gears you have bigger problems!!!! Clutch basket is easy BTW, just watch where the washers and bearings go back, use guide as stated. Another http://www.shercousa.com/?action=9 linkey

With the announced affiliation with Gas Gas, it would only make logical sense to build bikes on one assembly line. I figure they run off a batch of this and that. Roumour is the Ossa workers were laid off or reassigned. Who knows for sure? Guess basically the same with the Sherco fellows putting out a few Scorpas! Whatever works to keep things going! At the cost of new bikes, not everyone is in the market it seems!

If it is a good one, go for it!!!! Sherco is a good bike, but those Monts are not as high strung and seem quite reliable and sturdy so not a lot to buy except what you break!!! Love you long time!

As you already know, the TXT was well refined for the day, yet still a gasser. Can'y you find a good 315 Mont or a Scorpa Yam?

It is a bit ironic here in the places we ride. If dry, the sand is fine like talc and slick on top of a hard base. It gets into everything and you'll be getting sand out your ears and butt for a week! When it rains a bit, traction is excellent, no dust! When it rains a lot, the sand becomes a slopfest, it gets everywhere again and butt gets raw! Traction nil again, such joy! Wash everything at least twice!

Talkin bout THESE? Look good! http://www.shedworks.net/index.html

He said "Back to jokes" --- it was not funny---! Niether are you, Salmon! O- now THAST is funny!

Only a suggestion, yet tapered roller bearings such as a steering head LIKE a bit of preload and setting things with the fork tubes in the yokes can be difficult as they add pressure. Slide the tubes out, then preload the bearings so the yokes turn with only slight drag that will not be noticed when riding. Insure things are still smooth, reinstall fork tubes. See if that helps!

Ok Salman, the last one was over my head!

That is good then, just replace it. Hopefully there are no other issues with the stator.

This fellow allways bringe his car in for service, yet he is a bit devlilish!

Still worth a call or email to Steve at Motoplat UK as he may offer suggestions.

The pic as small and I cannot tell much, however it may be a pole piece has separated at a rivet. If the magnet is gamaged, the wheel will likely require replacement. Is this a Ducati ignition? There is likely someone out there with a flywheel.

The forks should be ok, just get it back together. As far as gearing goes, it is personnal choice, and how fast you need to go. As the stock gearing is 10:42, there is a large gap between the section gears (123) and the trail gears(4,5). I have used a 44 rear in the past that helps narrow the rande a bit and make 4-5 more usable in the transition, yet it does lower top speed a tad. Most bikes of that vintage came standard with a half link made into the stock Regina chain. I cannot recall for sure on the '02, might ck yours. If it has been changet it may explain why it could have started out at halfway on the adjuster cams and with a bit of wear is topped out. See how far the chain lifts off the rear sprocket and inspect the teeth for hooking and wear. Oversize snailcams are available if you have room on the swingarm for the axle to slide back a bit. There are only a couple of chain manufacturers that make half-link kits, but the Regina(being one) is a good chain, and the factory one is expensive. See what you have and get a better idea your exact needs before making any choices here. Also, depending upon how much mud you ride in, neoprene fork booties or seal-savers may be recomendable. they keep crap out.

http://www.uk-motoplat.com/home.html This would be your man. On second thought, what are you saying here? Is the flywheel itself coming apart? What contact are you referring to? Post pics if you can.

The SKF kits are the only ones that come with the outer wipers. They are relately new to the trials market it seems and I have not had any experience with them yet are they really green? Factory wipers are more expensive as well. When you order seals, you get seals only.

I seem to recall a similar incident a long time back where either someone had reverses some shim washers or inverted a gear in the shaft because it had fallen off during disassembly. I looked at the parts diagram today, yet is difficult for me to tell without having one in front of me. Possibly the large gear behind the clutch basket on the main shaft. Anyway, if this gear is slightly offset, it will not work in reverse order as the sliding cog will not properly engage it. Hope that helps, now go strip it again!!!!

I would suspect a bent shift fork. As these transmissions are fairly robust, gear issues are few and far between.

This is not a bad looking bike to start with. Seems 5w works best in the forks. Most of us run full synthetic at 80:1 with high octane pump gas or so. Keeping it fresh is important. The tanks may expand with alcohol and become hard to fit into the frame.

Although I do not currently have the PHBL installed on my bike, as I recall the fuel trim screw would indeed cut all fuel at idle when the flat hit the end of the passage(does not jamb the taper end in the hole). Bike will die out if this is not done really quickly to get a turn count when running. Now the PHBL is not exactly the same as the VHST, yet with exception of slide design they are very similar it seems and many parts the same. As the pilot circuit is behind the slide, it is exposed to vacume, which literally sucks fuel in, now the transition circuit being in front of the back edge of the slide would rely more on venturi effect to pull fuel, and without the slide cracked more this is unlikely to happen, at least in my theory of current understanding. Did you not say you had another bike around with a dellorto? Try a PHBL and see what happens.

These aer 1/4 the cost. Maxima 5W, 330cc per leg works well. http://www.tryalsshop.com/#ecwid:category=162463&mode=product&product=358870

It is hard to tell from the pics, yet as an example for you, the center of my clamps on the bars for the perches are 7.5 inches in from the end of the actual bars(not grips or end plugs) if that helps you any. Typically, trials levers would be up a bit more, closer to level, say you were standing straddled the bike and just rested your hands on the bars relaxed, you should find the levers naturally. I also wrap the perches with a layer of teflon tape so they can pivot on impact, yet tight enough not to move normally.