copemech

Kickstart shaft may move in and out couple mm as well with engagement of the cam gear. I am sure one or these legal experts can correct me, what do I know, as I have only owned a handfull of them over the last decade or so. Perhaps they can name and shame me if I am incorrect!!! Does it work if you let it fly back into position? You cannot give it a half prod by hand and expect it to return properly!

A roller is missing on yours as well. You have the half link on yours, so at the very least you will need a half link kit to fix this I think. Call Ryan to see if he has them.

" Please tell me when the last competition you rode was"-- Cannot recall, won the Central Regionals Amatures in '08 I think? Went to TTC in March, rode there, ride in back of house mostly, no State series or other local events while putting sprig through uni, cannot afford those trips! Lots of time and money finishing up my aircraft project as well, cannae do both. In toutch yet out of shape for riding comps now, local practice area works well for me, 30 min and done! Maybe better if fall weather cools things a bit, but myself and a few others are waiting for that SR Novice class to open up so all them sandbagging Sr Amatures do not offend us!

This sounds normal to me. If you give full stroke and release it the momentum will return it. It may polish up a bit with use, but it requires the momentum from downward release!

Take it to someone who knows how to re seal the rimband or replace it!

What chain is on your bike? To even get a masterlink to fit properly you need to know because they will not all fit properly! Many Shercos of that vintage require a "half link" to fit properly, as I think my '03 and 05 models did. Seems there are only a couple of companies that offer this, Regina(factory chain) being one! See what you have and let us know. Oh, the length is somewhere aroun 101 as I recall.

Easy answer for you, Billy! 2tbs castor oil at bedtime, when you wake you will no longer be FOS!

And I will certainly take you up on that offer, !!!

There may be a Montesa '07 250 4RT that has come to market near here. It would be a good bike, yet not cheap. Better bang for the buck. I do not know specifics, yet PM me and i will forward you a # '03 290 Sherco, lots of power! Not at that price either unless it it is near new, and even at tht? You dont want the antique gasser!

Design lifespan of the corrosion inhibitors in normal GREEN coolant is about three years. I will do mine annually or so as insurance, 50/50 with clean distilled water mix, unless you choose to purchase one them pre mixed racing solutions. All good, as they take less than a liter of mix as I recall.

The spring may be backed off a bit for your weight as well. Ask dad!

Unfortunatly, I do not believe the jetting will have much effect on a trials bike slogging about most the time at or near idle with an occasional blip or even a brief run between sections as far as the oil situation goes. Only reason I even mentioned it was the fact that some bikes come jetted soo lean from new, in an effort to meet emissions I suppose, that they will barely run. Seems to me that one first has to make a bit o' power to generate some heat, running fae lean will do niether. 2T4T did bring up a point reguarding runoff of the oils during periods of non use. I "think" the manufactures have added cling agents to address this in most cases. There was a big and expensive spat over this issue a number of years ago re Mobile 1 aviation synth and runoff destroying camshafts and lifters in very expensive motors. Many learned from that issue! I have never neccessarily been a proponent of synthetic oils overall, and fact is it does seem there are a number of semi- blends out there that work quite well in all but the highest stress conditions . As far as your car goes, my motto is simple. The best oil is clean oil! For the most there is no extended interval for expensive synthetics and it is likely not worth the extra in a low stress environment. A turbocharged and or high stressed motor is another story, yet still change it regularly like your underwear! Yhis does not mean every 3000 miles, either.

That little Scorpa would be a nice piece at the right price, but !

I would likely speculate that you may have picked up a bit of broken kickstart gear which got lodged in the primary gears(cramkshaft vs clutch clutch hub). It does not take much of a distortion here to create a knock. If the knock seems at crankshaft speed the crank gear is the likely culprit, the cam turns at half crank speed, so thus the frequency of the noise. Cutch basket is much larger, thus the noise at prolly 3-4 times less crank speed.

One question comes to mind re the fuel supplied(by the fuelers) at SSDT! I am not sure the ratio as the lads are running a lot of roads at mid to high speeds., yet I would think 50:1 would suffice even for this running. Possibly others may chime in here.

Now you see Glenn pop up with the 70:1 in an air cooled bike! Now conservative as I am, I do not know that I would make that an absolute reccomendation for all, yet he knows well what he is doing and how to manage it. No roadracers here, yet a good blow on occasion! Stoodly(JSE) is at the conservative 50:1mix on the old TY, which is fine as well(even if he never gets it hot). There is one thing about air cooled trials bikes, they are not force fan cooled like a strimmer, which would possibly let them run a bit hotter at times, yet I doubt nowhere near critical levels just putting about.

Once again, I would tend to agree with you on this, yet as you say it does seem to require the "feel"! Even trying to get some that are possibly running 30-50:1 ratios in a water cooled trials bike can be a chore, now try to get them to run near stoich!

It has to go somewhere, and that is where it winds up, no matter the ratio. There are indeed a lot of theories and wifestales out there, however I did like one thing I found that would apply here: The engine is probably over oiled at low rpm Probably sufficiently oiled at mid rpm And likely under oiled at high rpm These ranges referring to more constant running periods, not just brief blips of the throttle. And as follow suit, one cannot defeat the math of oil migration times so must adjust mix accordingly depending upon what one is doing. The paradox here is trying to find the way to get it moving out of the exhaust, and that still requires heat and velocity to blow ot out of light it off, and without doing such hard runs to deprive the motor in the process of ridding the exhaust! There was a post today about someone taking the bike down the road and back in high gears at moderate speeds and lighting off the muff smoking badly. Well, it was a bit overdue it seems, but at least he managed to get things burning and flowing, and this does not occur in the combustion chamber. Just how much he has been using will effect the accumulation rate, but will not prevent it. Punters, Punters, lend me your ear! 80:1 is fine for trials,, some go to 100:1 but you still need to get some heat into things upon occasion, just do not shag it to death!

They tend to rattle like shat! Yet normal it seems!

Not to change the topic, but where are the current standings? I see all the team reports from a lot, but?

Billy, BBQ is made with Beef, Not Pork!

I find the chart from Maxima a bit lacking of data, yet it goes along the lines of thought. http://www.maximausa.com/tech-tips/oil-migration.php

Yes, there are these overall performance variables, yet within the premise of just how much oil is required it seems the variables are few. Engine load and rpm being the key. Now on the trials bike fitting into the spectrum it seems once again these things are at about the same level as whale shat! Here is another article that mentions bean oils and radiographic testing on migration times. No, the oil does not stay with the mix. It lingers! Pity, it does not get into the "whale shat" spectrum. http://klemmvintage.com/oils.htm

Best to you all!

Have seem them things fitted for homogualtion emissions, so street legal in places I suppose. I would also expect them to run a smaller jet , yet for emissions reasons, and not neccessarily to restrict things. The cat may have some restriction to total flow at revs, yet may me a non-issue at lower revs. Not quite sure how the things would work in 2T application, yet I can tell you I prefer one on my diesel, as it cuts the stinch without loss of power.