copemech

Chris is a wealth if info at times. A allways wondered a bit about the choice of the plain bearings over a oilite bronze, yet all along I did figure it all came down to "stiction" issues, although there have been reports in the past from those who had done direct conversions to bronze without issue. As it even seems to me to be a bit odd, if the bearings are indeed designed to run dry by the PTFE induced babbitt surface, then some sort of dry lube such as LPS 1 may actually be the best at keeping things going vs a grease that may attract more dirt and such. Just a thought. Are they still using the HK roller on the brake pedal? That has been a big pain in the past, and mine went with bronze a long time ago, still there and working fine.

Bikes of that vintage came with the "shortie" two finger lever. Newer bikes came with the medium 3 finger lever. It does look as though yours are the long ones. It is a bit ironic, but the distance from the pivot to the sweet spot on the lever is actually longer on the short levers, which can provide a bit more control travel and resultant feedback control. I can ride with either, but I actually like the shorties, as on the others I move my fingers about more depending upon the situation. Think I have some original(spares) for you if you desire. PM me.

As a second thought on this, if you have it idled up too fast whan setting the mix screw it may be possible to draw fuel from the transition circuit orface(just behind the slide) so do your screw setting at low revs just poping along.

Ok, SLIPPING and STICKING are two different things. Do you mean that the clutch does not release with the lever pulled in? So it drives forward reguardless when placed into gear?

Something is wrong.

Eh, the fact that the fuel trim screw is not shutting off fuel at idle, combined with the fact it starts(enrichened) best without choke are an issue. The trim screw should cut fuel off when full in, reguardless of jet size. This seems to tell that it is drawing fuel from another source. The only other logical source seems to be through the choke circuit, and it seems there is a rubber seal at the bottom of the choke plunger that is designed to seal off the passage to the choke jet when closed. I suppose if that rubber is knackered fuel could be drawn up still providing a constant enrichment. As we have no history on this carb as to where it came from anything is possible. I thing a poor o-ring seal on the choke jet where it sets into the bowl may add to this problem as well. Just thoughts, I think Splatshop keeps there parts.

There is only one overflow pipe on a kiehin, and that is the one that exits off the lower portion of the bowl with a standpipe inside that normally extends abofe the level of the fuel. However, with sloshing about and such one may set spillage out them even on a well set carb. There are a couple answers for this, one being to block it off with a cap. Another is to run the hose up over the choke valve(or carb body) then downhill to exit, as fuel will be trapped this way in the hose. Either way, it defeats the primary purpose of it, however it is not totally neccessary, as the bowl vent tube on the other side is the one that does the work and is critical. Other carbs such as the Dellorto do not use such a device, so if the float does stick, it will simply fill the motor with fuel instead, which is not good, yet chances fairly slim in most cases it seems. As I have little like for peeing carbs, mine has been blocked off entirely on my OKO(kiehin copy) including removal of the internal standpipe for ease of bowl installation, with a BB sealing the hole. Do as you like with fair warning, it is your decision.

Nylon as I understand.

If you did get the fluid on the pads and such, be sure to give them a good soak with the arisol brake cleaning solution, cause any of that fluid on them is not good. Glad you got some pressure at least!

And what fuel has been init?

Ok Wayne(wenie) wot you got to do is find a nice clean digital studio mix of this and turn it up to levels that are near unbearable. This could actually be better than the smell of napalm in the morning! But the two together, heaven! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SvEMPyZFRj0 The audio track on this one is better! This is how old people should get on! Are those washing machines in the background? My day today!

Cam i get one these in size small to fit me cack? I tried tying a knot in the orig, bit it played hell on the short hairs and quite painfull!

Jeez Charlie! What bike are you fettling with and what carb? This ain't rocket science you know! If this is a dellorto, loosen the bottom screw. If you have fuel going in and none coming out, then that needle is stuck like Chuck! And don't let anyone tell you they will not stick and swell with the new fuels. They make a new style now in this mellinea.

The main sounds too small to me. A 125 just does not have the volume to draw up fuel as easily as a big bike. I am thinking 120-125 range

Yea, may take too much to fix the '06 shock, which had issues anyway. Possibly not reccomendable to pursue this repair. Anyway, back to his original question, will the "03 shock fit? As I recall the things were about 10mm shorter eye to eye. Cannot recall if Olle or Sachs, but as stated above may have to flip it due to clearance issues. I hate putting good money into rebuilding a POS, as you then have a re-built POS!

Pushbikes are light!

Just remember that clutch lever is not only a "go" tool , it is a "stop" tool !!!! Same for both index fingers actually, let them relax, you will go, pull them you will stop! The clutch is the bailout tool, reguardless of what the throttle is doing, drill it into your head and you will be OK!

Just be ready to replace them seals again in a few months! I will take the insurance and use the Viton seals, time will tell, yet it has been a couple years already! Thankfully most bikes are coming with such things as the alcohol resistant float needles in the carbs and such. It is a bit of a new world in dealing with this crap, and I do not have all the answers.

Bearing specs here: SKF 6206 2RS1 TN9 C4/GJN 6206 Deep Groove Ball Bearing 30x62x16mm 2RS1 Sheet steel reinforced contact seal of acrylonitrile-butadiene rubber (NBR) on both sides of the bearing TN9 Injection moulded snap-type cage of glass fibre reinforced polyamide 66, ball centred C4 Radial internal clearance greater than C3 GJN Grease with polyurea thickener of consistency 2 to the NLGI Scale for temperature range –30 to +150 °C (normal filling grade)

NOT ACCORDING TO THE SEAL MANUFACTURER http://www.tto.com.t...es/material.htm

A few tweaks on things like a tuck in in the top of the kicker lever and a bit different brake pedal would be nice, Possibly they opened their email after a few years!

Not knowing where you are or the ambient temps, the cold start issue becomes more difficult. Seems you have achieved good running for the most part and the only thing I can see from your carb specs would possibly be the 111 main jet. This would allow it to rev cleanly at altitude, but I am thinking something more along the 155-118 line. Fuel screw seems ok with that low jet,

To be honest, I was a bit put off by the concept of the sealed bearings when I heard all this. Sometimes the engineers who develop things can be wrong, and only time will tell. Well, over time it seems the sealed bearings have held up well, in both my personnal experience on long term testing of the Sherco and from general reports from others on this forum. The trials motors are generally lightly loaded and water cooled, so excess heat would not be an issue. Most have bigger issues keeping heat in the motor as they cool quickly! I still believe one of the big problems in earlier years was the fact that if one ever even approached a Sherco with a water hose, one would wash enough dirt and water through the filter to induce damage. The only way to stop this is to plug the airbox prior to washing the bike or similar. This does not neccessarily happen with riding wet areas alone, yet may if the rear mudguard and such is not properly sealed, mostly self induced as it is easy to do. This would apply to all years through '09, and at least you will fill the lower airbox with muck for your next trip! Crankshaft seal issues with the standard issue nitrile seals poor resistance to the introduction on alcohol in our fuels is another issue. Yes, I give them a couple years maybe. This is a fuel issue, not a design issue, yet I do believe they should adapt for the sake of longevity. Samy's motor will now be more conventional in a sense, and even though less costly bearing may have been had, possibly it is all OK, but even today I must ask myself the question of which way I would go on all this, I am leaning toward the newer sealed units as I have found no real reason to condem them.

No, apparently just pre lubed and sealed. Now although I have my own questions about all that, I quess it works for the most part. I have a couple of compressors at work with 20,000 hours on the motors with no added lube! Go figure? I can only presume from there, but I still think DIRT is the worst enemy!

Nice pics Doug! Did you get better in Jim's bike!