copemech

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That looks a bit better. You did pull off the crossbar pad before doing the allen wrench trick did you not? The bars look really forward now, but it may just be the angle of the pic. As the Kiehin has a larger inlet spigot, the only factory inlet rubber that fits would be for a later model Cabestany Replica bike that came with that carb. Although many of these mods were done prior to the availability of that factory hose, most things wound up like yours. I have a reinforced aircraft inlet hose that I use on my bike to this day. Much heavier duty than the factory hose. It is a bit-- to get on the carb, and you do not need a clamp once it is on, it just stays there. Remove other end for maintenance as Tony stated. I can send you one for yours if you like, PM me. Cost about $5.00 for the postage. Part is $3 at my cost. I do not make anything on these. The Kiehin is a better mixer than the stock Dellorto, yet they can be more finiky. As it is a 28mm as compared to the stock 26mm, they offer bigger power as well. The Pros do not use bowl vent tubes, they just clean the carbs all the time. As the bowl vent to atmospheric pressure is critical, I found it easier to take the time and drill out the left side vent casting to make it fully funtional. As my right hose was pinching off, it was useless, so left it essentially blocked off. Then use a short hose about 2-3 inches long as a water and crap diflector on the now functional left side vent. All depends upon how good you are with a drill press and some carefull measures here! An inline fuel filter is reccomendable for the Kiehin, as it does not have one built in like the Dellorto, although there is a decent screen in the petcock assy. if in good shape? There is a special wire ring that attaches to a number plate or headlamp that guides the front brake cable and keeps it from flopping around. Ryan has this stuff. Other thoughts- Be sure the magneto cover is not trapping water, as they are prone to leak. I allways put a 1/8 hole in the bottom ov mine to let things drain and vent.

Biff, catching for Zippy! F-- That!

No idea about specific resistance on that coil, yet seems you are correct in that does not sound correct to have no continuity. Might try Steve at Motoplat UK for advise on replacement. I am not sure if this is a 6 or 12V coil????

Nothing special here, conect two wires and it should run. Reverse polarity if needed, it should run oither direction. Fans run on DC power, so if it it does not run on bike, you may need to look at thermo switch or rectifier.

I think they did mellow the 290 a bit in '06, not sure about the 250 as I only had a brief go on one, yet it was nice. My '05 250 was still considered perky, yet i loved it. Any 290 will have more stick, and could be too much, depending upon you. Do not consider them gentile, yet they can be tamed a bit.

Tell us again where you are in FL? There are other trials riders there. Need to hook you up. Basic Tips: Bars and Levers: Bars- Loosten bars and rotate forward. Insert allenwrench into forfard clamp screw. Bring crossbar back to toutch allen wrench(on back of crossbar) Lock down bolts very tight insuring clamp caps are equal on both ends to secure properly. Levers- Stand bike up on wheels and straddle it standing up on your feet on ground. Gently lay your hands on grips with fingers extended at a relaxed and normal angle and let your index fingers find the brake and clutch levers naturally without rotating your wrists. You need to learn to go uphill and down without reaching for levers. Example , you cannot do a big downhill or a two foot log now(with levers down) without breaking your wrists as you need to be far back on the bike with arms extended. They need to be neutral(just below level). Lesson for the day! Also, you need room to move on the bike, bars back is too restrictive. It all becomes more natural once you have done it a while. Send payment for lesson now!

WoW, that should make a really fine looking bike on '05 colors!!!! Since you are new, i would reccomend you save that stuff for a while because you are likely to crash a lot at first, or at least fall over!

Kick the bars up to verticle! as a start. Needs chain tensioner! Tilt levers up to near level. Route throttle cable on other side of steering head.

Never worked on one, yet you may chk the ignition timing on the stator plate, as if it has been set back a bit far this can lead to high pipe temps.

Well if you still have no spark, get it over to the dealer then. One needs the parts to swap out to isolate the problem. Stator, CDI unit and such. Hopefully you are covered on this, as a good lad should.

Add be sure to put some oil in the fuel premix, or your not going far!

Thoughts on this: Symptoms seem fuel related. Insure the pilot jet is clear and you can pass a fine wire through it. Insure the fuel tank vent tube is not restricted and fuel flows freely to carb, as this happens after riding a bit. Other potential issuses include crankshaft seals if it only runs on choke and has floaty idle. Spark is difficult to see on these in daylight, fresh plug and dark shed should show something on kickover. Disconnect kill button and ck earthing of cdi.

No, never heard of issues?

Back on topic, obviously the 2.9 is gonna carry a bit more punch than a 250 Beta. The rest is up to you!!!!!

For gods sake man, you had a coil go bad and you could not keep the daft IRC on the rim wich was the tires fault! Give us a break!

Standard plug would be a BP5ES. Needle clip in third rung down. Jetting varies a bit with fuel and such, but I would get the main down in the 118-120 range for cleaner running. 34-36 range on the pilot seems ok for many. Float arms set parallel with bowl surface when inverted.

Another FINE composition from John! Is it just me, or do them sections look harder every year? I think this is as close as one gets to being there form a riders perspective. Most all need a good look at this!

Quit trying to understand! It is because there are soo many experts there, you know! Tell Charlie about other bikes like TY and Monts, Tony!

Yes I mean the piston seals in the caliper. They need to flex to allow piston return. The only move slightly, yet if they are getting old they may not allow the pads to release fully. Yes, kits are available.

Noe THIS explains why I do not go anywhere near them guys!

Ck the plug again! I had one in my '85 Yam 80 quad thay looked fine but would not work. It was only 10 years old, cannot imagine what went wrong here.

Yea, sell you my XT 225 Serow for 2K, come get it!

Don't feel bad. Our best rider is not even going!

Mich is a good tire, maybe the finest all round, yet I can get Dunlops here for aner 2/3 the cost, and I cannot tell enoug difference to make it worth the dosh. They will run at really low pressures as well, all up to the user really.