copemech

Shercos have been coming with pre-lubed sealed bearings for many years now('05??) with no great issues. Not sure what your original problem was. Crank seal issues due to alcohol induced fuel can be an issue, yet these seals can be replaced externally. Reports on bearing issues seem actually less over the years with the sealed units, as they seem to mitigate dirt entry through the intake tract, although dirt is the prime culprit here and I suppose may wipe out any bearing. With your seals being removed you are now at the mercy of your own maintenance for prevention I would think. If one was going to opt for that the bearings may have been had for a lot less dosh. Did he install the Viton(alcohol resistant) seals as well? My seals have been replaced on my '07 bike, but no bearings. Seems your mechanic has opened a different set of worms for you.

I believe it will work, yet not positive. Ring up Splatshop Chris!

Follow the "service manuals" pinned thread above and scroll down the the water pump seal replacement guide.

Well, it seemed a cozy 105f here today, no rain in sight, and so I pot out the water in the back so I did not catch the grass on fire whilst burning brush!

You may well be right about the old Dunlop D801's, but the newer D803's have been aroun for some time now. I have no problem with them here, although may be different to the southern UK mud riders who like the IRC. After all the reports of the IRC's loosing air, I am not even going there. I can easily run the Dunlop at 3psi on a muddy day without issue. I have seen top US riders run their practice tires to t total nub with the Dunlops, and still find more traction than I can with a new Mich, go figure? Old age splitting and cracking recently took its toll on my front Mich. Never have kept a trials bike that long tbh. Well, quick ck around and noone seemed to have a front Mich, so Dunlop it was. Called up Ryan Young, in his words"no difference". Cannot state that I can tell a difference so at my level it works, and at his it does not matter, soo wtf?

Many front hubs have metal inserts between the bolts and disks which allow it to float a bit. Many rear ones do not and you must inspect to see what you have, as if it is not designed to move, it should not!

What make is it?

yes

Jeez, and all this is why Baldilocks has kept his yellow monkey suit? Now he can look like a proper monkey with a bananna up the rear!!! Thankfully I keep a good assortment of the black rattle cans. I am suddenly thinking a bit of markeyboys lace trick will make one look like a slightly bruised week old bananna!

It seems there is a difference in bar clamps depending upon bike and mfg., as example the ones on mine appear to be on 38mm centers. You would want to verify yours before ordering.

Slow throttle, retard timing about 3-4mm on the ignition stator plate, install Boyesen dual stage reeds. These would be the standard reccos.

Even though I recall seeing a few heavy springs around for that bike back in the day, good luck finding one now. I would not worry too much really, even if you are not a 72 kilo spanish youth, the things work ok off the jounce rubber if it is in good shape. There have been many a heavier rider on stock springs, yet you may contact Chris at Splatshop.co.uk just to see if he has any alternatives short of a custom job.

Yhis one stuck in my head today, oh well, almost Monday! Reminds me of when Ham2 was just a young lad dancing on the walkway! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9RwlWeFTq4c

Hey Glenn, here is a memory test! You recall working on any old jap bikes with phillips head 6mm screws holding things together that were allways rounded out! Hammer driven impact driver with a #3 bit!!!!! Man could they be a pain!

Adding one full link is going to cover two teeth on the rear sprocket(one inner and one outer) so you can hold it up there or wire tie it to ck accordingly to ck for your range of adjustment. If that is too long, then you will need the half link kit. Which will shorten you by one tooth.

Dony maka ***** if if bottoms, a 6mm will still twist off at 8mm specs! Now I can tell you that after running a few thousand different bolts on Jap crap and beyond, them boys can get things tight! And with the usually decent bolts they use, they will withstand some abuse, but not that much for a 6mm thread! Glenn will likely be the only one to understand this!

Ok, I will take a stab at this only because you are likely to find little help with that old bike and configuration. Pinking- As I recall the timing should be ok in the mid position, as this may indeed be slightly retarded from standard rhich would be the left bias of the slot or right or the screw. Many bikes in this timeframe were also poorly adapted to more modern pumpgas with possibly less than desireable compression ratios and head designs. Ck your pilot jet size as I figure you may need to go up on it and adjust the fuel trim screw in a bit for low speed. I was running a 38 pilot on my PHBL before I stopped Ping! The VHST was sold as a fix fir the Mikuni problems and will run it seems, yet not perfect and sensitive to float levels(downhills) variations. Set float arms at 19.5 mm from surface when carb inverted. Go up or down by 0.5mm to find sweet spot. Hard start- Junk the plug! First symptoms of fouling! Clean all you like , BUT! If it has been fould in transport by not shutting off the fuel or the downhill rich running it is likely toast! I still prefer NGK over any others in standard application, and for $3 they are disposable! My thoughts, see how you get on!

Point being we have little heat in the first place putting about. Wrap one up and let us know just how you fair with that!

Till you pull your header pipe and try to de grunge it!

Billy, are you then running oil in your 4T to help things along? I figure a 1% mix of that castor and it would smell like the ass of a princess!

pOT CALLING THE KETTLE BLACK, dARRELL!

I did see something somewhere about the new ones having gearbox that one could fix without splitting the cases!(ala Ossa) Now how good is that!

That is far too much torque for a 6mm dia. thread in a ali case. About 95-100 in/lb(8-9 ft lb) would be more appropriate.

Unfortunatly, that option adds about 10 kilos and it seems Sherco is not interisted.

Your snailcams will be all the way out to start! Next you will need oversize snailcams or a 43 tooth sprocket! Bputt is too young to know all this hi-tech info! (sorry Brian) The factory chain is best, yet expensive at about $75 as I recall. If your sprockets are worn, time to do the whole thing! And the S3 bling!!!!! Mike has a kit here that is reasonable and a repair kit that may work as well. http://www.tryalsshop.com/#ecwid:category=162629&inview=product1396507&mode=category&offset=0&sort=normal