copemech

I prefer water based lubricants. Much easier to clean up afterwards! The mobile 1 really left a bad taste in my mouth!

Wong chow calls into work and says 'I no come work today, I really sick. got head ache stomach ache and legs hurt, I no come work.' The boss says , 'you know something, Wong chow, I really need you today. When I feel sick like you do, I go to my wife and tell her to give me sex. That makes everything better and I go to work....... You try that.' 2 hours later Wong chow calls again. 'I do what you say and I feel great...... I be at work soon.... You got nice house.'

Best I recall, it is a short track, not sure they ever go straight, and very,very quick!

Jeez upChuck, what have you done now! might try to PM Rlracer on here(Ron), or I guess I could call Ray P and ask if you don't have any luck with recco's on here, let me know!

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Thats just wrong! Soo wrong! Dont look like your sprocket guard is doing much guarding either. Looks like you been dragging it around!

The V-rubber work fine for a novice rider piddling about. Biggest problem I found with them was on slick wet rocks, just not the same as a primium tire!

Jitsie make some nice real CF fork guards, I think Splatshop carries them. As far as the things like swingarm and frame guards, I think you are better off using the less expensive plastic CF look stuff from Trickbits or whomever it is. It does its job, look ok and is disposable if need be. I have taken my CF fork guarde over three bikes now, and they have taken some knocks, well worth the money I think!

Ben, The ali bolts are for the side covers only. They do look the stuff, and are light weight. They are not meant for high stress applications and should NOT be over torqued, as one must be gentile with them. They will also deform more easily if hit by rocks and such. Looks as though they supply a special lube with them as well to prevent thread galling and corrosion..Should work ok if done properly, and seems they are inexpensive. The titanium are your premium bolts. Light like ali and strong like steel. Resist corrosion. Stainless are the middle ground. Same basic weight and near the strength of steel, yet corrosion resistant and stay shiney over time.

Oh, come on man! I want to hear the dirty side! Surely you can ride the SR class now! Don't have to doo much, just show up and piddle a bit! I have been waiting for them to open up the SR, Novice Class here! I could muster a decent finish possibly!

May not be totally clean on the pilot if it was junked up! One fellow just replaced his, as he could not clean it totally! Collect what comes out of the bowl when you break it over a clear glass or plastic container to see what comes out. Fuel may be contaminated with water or other stuff. Be critical!

Unfortunatly prolly not too many around that have similar bikes to look at! With nothing to go by, and not even being able to compare the two stators, makes things difficult. So, you seem to have an extra yellow wire on this new one? Yellow wires are generally lighting or fan circuit drivers for the Ducati and Leonelly systems. A couple things come to mind here. First checking the(extra) wire for AC voltage while running, then next, fab a jumper connection (even a paperclip) to join two yellow wires together to see if that increases available current. Depending upon how the things are wound it may not work and could cancel each other out.. Other thing being to use the other to split the system, let one run high load devices such as headlamp and the other to run other lighting.. Possibilities?

So you wanted a Gasser did you? Honestly, I find it more likely yhe water pump seals may have been on their way out or damaged due to dry running due to the leaking rad, but you will not know this untill the integrity of the cooling system repaired and the bike is ridden, such as this case. In many cases, there is no way to tell in advance. No ones fault, just get it fixed!

Dom gave you instructions in your other recent thread! If you want to do this the quick way, scribe the shafts end nuts on the clutch and crank with a dremel so you can put them back up to torque with a good 3/8 rattle gun to the same location or just slightly beyond.(This is not for amatures) Get the Viton seals from Splatshop Chris. If you are without the proper tools, best to let your dealer or qualified local mechanic do it. You can screw up som major stuff here without them!

There was also a suggestion from someone that baking old contaminated pads in the wifey's oven for a while cured them. I have not tried this, yet it seems plausable!

All good to hear, now Stay away with the hose as well, may be worse due to the water volume! Best practice is to build a foam plug, pull fender and remove filter before washing and install plug in filter hole. (takes 1 minute) Then blast away! Hand dirty mudguard to spousal unit for cleaning! BTW, as time goes on, you will find a 125 more tractable without revving the crap oit of it, They are docile!

Many later bikes use them, but fact is the old 2 pot does work well if functioning properly. There was another recent post on this topic, and seems he had some odd aftermarket brake pads installed, and another person stated his went back to normal after a kit installed with new pucks and seals. If your pads are not the stock Galfer(red) or they have endured oil from a leaky fork seal over time, they may not work well. Personally, I would start there, seat them in normally, then get them warm with a couple good high speed stops and puor water on the disk to steam them off, then see what you got. Fact is I have a lightly used set of pads if you want them for the cost of post, PM me. When they work, they work, and not much difference.

When the oil is changed, normally the bike is laid over to the left side, which does tend to slosh things that way in the vent chanell, so it could be temporary I suppose. Excess oil may vent out as well. Vent hose should run up over the carb, between the fuel line and carb body, then down to skidplate. That keeps water out and oil running back in with normal expansion.

ALTO, ALTO! This is the process of becoming the Master, Grasshopper! Hope it runs now?

I must agree with OTF on this. You want to go out for a ride with the kids, that is fine. MX will get them a ride home in the ambulance! Just a matter of when! Sure all will get a good chuckle! Makes me wonder just how long Dad could stay atop the KTM 85, as the little POS's have a wicked power band! I would not want one! Try the cost of MX for a while, see where it gets you! The kids will ride what they have, nothing more. And they won't have that if dad goes broke in the process!

4 pot AJP goes straight on with minor trim of plastic guard.

Many bikes have much more capable lighting coils installed in the stator plate, although I am not sure about the little 50, some stator plated have an open slot for an added coil even. Have you checked on a replacement headlamp bulb in LED? It seems that even the trials bike stators are only rated at around 100W peak power, which is not going to drive a lot of lights reliably. The small Sherco rectifier should work. Only the one wire and an earth point as I recall. No Idea what rating for a capicitor, larger the better as what may fit, as they just kinda temp storage of power, but little reserve as compared to a battery pack.

Ryan is just nuts sometimes! He has a lot of fun in the process! Never the same, allways something new! He is in this clip as well, on the 4T, at a exibition section with some good riders!

Boredom! Actually, the stock Sherco clutch is very good you know. Some find the bite point a bit abrupt(on/off). I do think this helps smooth the action just a bit, but the real factor here is that after using the (less two springs) light action now for couple years, I have become spoiled with it and my old arthritic finger appreciates it as well. The plates sticking is just a nuisance issue for me, but in fact it can be a bit unsafe for those unaware. I still never totally trust them. To me, this is like putting the strawberry topping on the cheesecake, but to be honest, it is a pain in the ass to do. I do agree with Doug in the sense they do seem to have just a bit more gear rattle on the light oil, but I have no problems with its lubricating ability, we run 4WD transfer cases and such on that stuff, and that is not even the high spec full synthetic. It is designed to apply clutches smoothly and positively! And provide gear lubrication as well. Nothing here states one HAS to go light oil or soft on the springs, that is my choice, but with the other things, one may still find a better action.

The layer on these is very thin, not splattered all over like some, so not neccessary to me. Add, I am not that anal!