copemech

Cuts in a tire carcass are generally related to impacts, as compared to a puncture(round) and can be difficult to plug or repair as many times patches will not hold due to the flex of the sidewall and such. A dog turd may actually spread(open) a cut, making things more difficult. There is a US company called Safety Seal that produces a rubber bonding compund that is used with their primer to bond dog turds in place from the inside the tire that seems quite good stuff and should hold and seal forever on a normal puncture. My thoughts are this stuff is soo good it seems, it may well work even on cuts in a trials tire, if fairly small, as it flows in to seal the area, adheres, ans cures like rubber. Mind you, I have not tried it on a cut, but if anything will hold, this stuff should doo! Look up their website. I will try to find the link later.

I hate acronyms! It rivals text talk, should be banned from society! Who filled you with all that irrelevent dribble! My ASDA is fine! My ICE won't friggin run right!!!!!!(internal cumbustttttitue whatever motor!) Fecking carb is off for flow testing at factory! What a PITA!

Not being sure about just how likely the newer Betas are to kick back. I know the Sherco's would on occasion, and the older Revs would go off like a gun at times. Presuming there is nothing else actually wrong with the bike, like a daft CDI, the dremel tool to that third fixed hole would be my choice! Don't take much you know! Do put us up a nice piccy! We have a mate here that did something to his leg a couple years back. Whole thing turned black and blue! Looked horrible!

Yea, good point! I have never seen one break, yet the good thing about that would be the fact is should be evident with clutch removal and would not click up to the next pawl, if it is not there!

What are you rambling about. That is a Jap-US war movie thay came out before you were born probably! "Take Off Run Available"? I have over a mile of runway! I could take off and land two or three times if the bloody motor would run properly in this shat cold weather!!

I have had that happen many years ago, think it was a CR 250 Honda MX bike! Looks like hell and takes forever to go back! Worst in the last few years drove my knee up into the end of the bars! Near put me down !

Couple questions, Any idea when this issue began, or did you buy it that way? Does the shift lever return spring feel normal? Dose the 1-2 shift feel normal? Things like this usually occur after a hard hit to the shift lever, and if other things feel normal, may have bent an internal shift fork and require a teardown of the motor for inspection.

Should normally be a PHBL, so also ck to insure the slide needle is set UNDER the retaining plate!

Best I recall, all is very similar to the Sherco, except reversed sides(mirrored) so all else being well, you should likely be able to rotate the stator plate clockwise to retard the timing a bit and eliminate the kickback. Not sure just how they are marked, but 3-4mm change should be plenty I would think.

Front had passed, it was clear and dry! I checked today, still cold here as I do not think it got over about 37f, and baro was still high at 30.25, density altitude was near -1250 feet, but not -1650. I made some calls today, and I have not found anyone yet that has experienced this, yet at the same time, they all say that planes are not designed to run below sea level!

Went to go flying Sunday evening. All had been running well on the aircraft, then I go to do my run-up test on the plane that eve and it is rough, not running right at all on either magneto under load. Thought about plug fouling an such, reved it out a few times, then tried the carb heat and it went smooth as glass. Went back to normal with no carb heat then rough mag check again. Kept running at low revs for a while to get some heat into the motor, but no change on the runups and then it seemed ok so I pulled out on the runway and applied full power for takeoff and it ran rough again, so aborted takeoff. I had noticed a large swing in altimeter setting upon preflight, did not think too much about it, yet a bit unusual. I have now spent many hours trying to find out what is wrong with the motor, disecting magnetos, carb and such, to no avail. However, I did recall the bloody altimeter setting, so I just ran the numbers on this and feck me! I have never seen such numbers! No wonder it declined to run well under load yet smoothed out whth heat applied! Not sure anyone is going to believe me on this! Does this happen there? I am now a submarine!

Sounds like you are running a bit much oil, needs to be in the 62.5-70ml range as I recall in liters. Not the issue though. One might inspect for a broken intake reed as well. I have never broken one, but I seem to recall the bikes going lumpy like that when it happens. Otherwise, I would be looking at the ignition. Do you have anyone near to swap some parts?

Good going! I'll send your invoice for consultation via Paypal!

Steve, the Kiehin IS the premimum carb for both brands, and they are sensitive on setup and tuning on the day, yet do run quite well. They will also tell of early onset of such issues as crank seals early on due to their sensivity! Blessing and curse! They like to be totally clean aS WELL, ANT AN INLINE FILTER IS RECCO~ Proper bowl venting is critical and may cause problems. If your stuff is right, it should work right for you for the most.

Have you called Ron Commo or Mike Komer?

Add to that, the standard ali cases prolly cost less and work fine, just a thought. Magnesium can be welded though, if you find the specialist welder, depends upon what exactly you are dealing with here, as if re-machineing is required, it may get too expensive to repair.

The AM6 is a Minerelli engine as I recall. I think Beta uses them as well in their enduro/motard bike. Should be lots of stuff out there for them. I think they are ok in standard trim, but too much hopping up on these small things can create a time bomb as they rev quite high!

You will need to inspect the gasket as Coxy suggested, however is is also possible that you actually bent or distorted the clutch side cover so the sealing surfaces no longer match well in the thin gasket section on the bottom of the motor. If this is indeed the case, the ali can be straightened with a bit of heat and gentle persuasion using something like an adjustable spanner to sort of pull the section back into position and hopefully without cracking the metal, however this may only work once or twice as the metal fatigues. It does work, as I have seen this done as a field repair by a Basher I know! After all, it is a skid plate, not a landing pad!

I was stunned at the fecking Bono with no glasses, as I feel him now a bit over the top prick ! We did get a lot more snow, was Heavy, and did add up a lot more, but just a pic of it here in the process is a rareity! Finally got over freezing today, so mostly gone. Got to -5C or so and stayed below freezing for about two days, so not the norm here.

Feckenstein more likely. Where is Dirty Donna? Hope you been well lad! Cheers to you and yours.

He was drunk! Ur no, I was drunk, found it funny twice!

The old dipstick tool does have its uses. somewhere I still have one with a vernier screw scale and a locking screw which is quite handy at finding true TDC. One needs to lock it down at say 1mm BTDC till the piston stops, then rotate the crank counter till it stops. Split the difference and you have TDC.(avoids the null on top) Once you have TDC marked, one can use a degree wheel to mark the preferred setting in degrees. Using the dial indicator is simple and seems accurate enough. Not sure which is more accurate after taking in inherant errors. One needs to decide if you want to measure in degrees or mm BTDC.

A white Christmas in Texas! Rare! Almost two incher, and cold!

Thats really NICE, Zipper! I mean, thats REALLY nice! :madnoel:

Just for you! http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=fLm8aiM_7F0#!