copemech

Ummm, well yes, these would both be "fat" guns with 13/17 rounds double stacked in the mag(grip). Many love the Glock, as it is a functional piece. I do not like them myself. Lack of character, I suppose, in a plastic gun with no exposed hammar. Never had a Browning, as I prefer a Baretta(sexy). "The Glock has built-in safety catches, and the pistol can be kept fully loaded with a round in the chamber even when it is in the holster." This statement is total bollox, as one can do that with a 1911. I have recently considered a Sig. They make some nice stuff, and I like little works of art!

Finger upon clutch, lad, finger on clutch! It IS the applicator of POWER, and the bail out TOOL, no matter what the throttle does! Drill that into the brain! Practice makes perfect! Just as important as throttle or gears! Remember that!

Nothing frugal there for 100bhp, only benifit is speed! Of course, things get better if you slow down, or gain altitude(possibly). Not unlike the airlines, one must think in relation to cost per passenger mile! It then becomes the Volkswagon that it is in aircraft terms! Not unlike the Tomahawk, one has some creature comforts such as an electrical system and instruments, a very basic thing like a Piper Cub has near nothing, hand prop to start! Grassroots flying!

Donald, if I took this to millhecktowhatevers and Cunni, it looks more like this first one, then adapted to sea level by standard lapse rate looks more like the second!!

Aye up mate! Figured you would surface eventually! Hopefully the issue is resolved now with the carb work, and it being overly sensitive. Yet I must admit the fact I have never paid much attention in the past. A mate of mine called me to tell he had reviewed an old training tape on winter flying which brought up some extreme conditions and a couple things came out of it. 1- Local reporting stations may not be able to report accurately at baros beyond 31.00 in as it is out of range of their instruments. Obviously, this is a non issue if you are on the ground and know your elevation and can adjust accordingly, yet if in the air, it is recco to just set to 31.00 and go. 2- Seems there was indeed mention or rough engine operation at these extreme pressures. Recco is to apply carb heat and go. There also being mention that temp inversions are common under these conditions, so air may warm at altitude, makes sense. I suppose in my case, this just showed up a bit prematurely due to the carb. Seems one does not just simply change main jets in these things. The fuel nozzle goes up into the center of the venturi, and seems they ream the orface to set flow to range specified by the engine maker. All said, at the flow of 41 pph(6.83 gph), it costs $34.16 at $5.00 per gallon to go for an hour, at a speed of 118 mph, or 17.35 mpg. So one can get from A to B fairly quickly at a cost which is halfed if one considers 2 occupants.

Oh it's the Sherco motor then! Yep, Demmo is right. There should be a mark on the stator plate that aligns with the right edge of the casting web on top. I usually tell folks , a change(counter rotation to retard or slow) of 1-2mm(mild), 3-4mm(mid) or 5-6mm(most), so adjust accordingly. Seems a 1mm change is not really enough to tell.

On average they are inexpensive to fix up. My motto is there is nothing $500 won't fix!

Urgh! I measure the open clip at 17.5mm, however one must notice the clip is not standard, in that it has little tangs on the inside to retain the 9.5mm piston. These come in the kit, which were hard to get a while back, which is why I have one stashed. Splatshop shows tho have them, verify part number for the year, but it should be R233. Price had increased as well, but it looks as though it is back to normal at 20 quid. Might inspect your old boot for nick and tears as well, as thic is a common culprit for water entry and crud. I recco packing the boot with silecone grease upon assembly for prevention.

Another fixer-upper there Charlie? 1- No chance of a fix if you do not have the brass piece that I know of! 2- Yes, they make rim strips with built in valves now, which is nice, but you still gotts get them to seat properly! 3- Not if it works! 4- Yes, throw them away! You will look better!

You on about a Rotax powered SAcorps? Yes, kick the timing back all the way!

\ The Mont 315 makes a great bike in general for apt starters. Good build and reliable with decent smooth power and suspension. Buy upon condition, a few scratches won'h hurt, you get what you pay for here in that market, the newer the better most likely!

Reading your post I am not sure, but I would suppose this is a Kiehin on an Evo? Makes me wonder if it is not being subjected to excess vibration such as loose headstay or engin mounts? This stuff needs to be gone over and get goooten tight, you know! Add the bashplate and swingarm bolts as well!

Ere, I'd like a portrait o'Kate wither mouth "open" mesel!

Mostly right there! When you take a POS and rebuild it, you got yoursel a rebuilt POS! Mostly shed queens! Although there are a few hardcore that keep some really old stuff going for riding, and use them! Great stuff for many, and brings back mammories! Best way to buy that stuff is to let them spand the dosh and work, then pick it up cheap, later!

I have used the Braking pads in the past with the 4-pot caliper. It seems to me they did take a while to fully cure in and never quite as sharp as the Galfer pads when dry, yet seemed to work much better than the Galfer when wet. My impression.

Well, never did hear from Slapshot! He may be 1600 ft below sea level himself I suppose!(buried in muff) I feel much better after recieving the call from the fellow at the factory. He had run the carby on the test bench and it speced out at basically 10% lean of spec !!!!!!!!!!!!! which is measured in pounds per hour of fuel flow! So spec at 41, it was at 37(fuel weighs roughly 6 pounds per gallon US measure) No wonder it would not run at that air density! I have not lost my mind!

Can you identify the pads? Are they the red Galfer? Anyway, you may now try to seat them in on the bike by doing a few(3-4) hard stops from 4-5 gear speeds, then splashing them off and steam cleaning(shock cooling) the disk with a bottle water at hand. Try this a couple times then let things dry. Do not over do it, the disk should get plenty hot in that period.

The plot thickens! Poor eyesight has decieved more thal one fellow whilst trying to catch a glimmer of light through a pilot jet of a diameter of just over 0.3mm! Even a tiny spec of chrystaline sand may decieve the eye! I have my fine wire as a tester to pass through the tiny hole. I have also used the blasting method using the spray carby cleaner to insure a steady stream, yet this may well p*** the stuff all over you so beware! Same for the passages within the carb body, it needs to flow out the tiny hole in the carb throat when injected into the mix screw passage or visa vie. There has been more than one decent running carb taken off a bike and set aside, then runs crap when reinstalled due to the dirt in the bottom that was dislodged in the process, just saying! Do not even bother to ask just how I know this stuff! Jim did a great job in the video, but I did not see that part! To add insult to injury, one may never actually see the culprit bit when cleaning, either! We have developed ways to do this, beeaking clean carbs over a clean glass vessle, then more like panning for gold than anything. All that is less important than the end result, yet it still denotes the fact that when it goes back together one is confident of the flow to the best of his ability. In diesel systems, we measure dirt in microns, and it don't take much to foul a high pressure injector! They do not allways teach this stuff in carby class any longer! Must be H&S reasons! All said, there are two types of cleaning methods, a blow and go, or a thorough inspection depending upon the issue at hand, so adjust accordingly! My thoughts,

So you see you get a bit of free training here! Yey being satisfied with the carb and all that, the seals may still be suspect, ad as we still have no idea about the age of the bike or when and how all this started. It does seem the standard rubber crank seals do not tolerate the alcohol induced fuel well over time and may weaken. I might also suspect a 125 to be a bit more sensitive ti this due to its smaller volumes which would throw things off more easily, yet not enough reports to tell for sure. Thus the recco for the Viton(resistant) seals for hopefully longer lifespan.

Doug, that stuff is made for a wide range, yet good operation at higher altitude and lower temps. It does not like hot restarts in an airplane or a trials bike either for that matter. It seems to boil of vapor-lock in the carb, so as example, a hot loop, hard running, then shut down to walk a section! Wrong idea here on a warm day, it may not restart untill it has sat 10-15 minutes and cooled, then all fine! You can kick yourself into exhaustion till then! Did you ever hear from jimmy?

Yea, well? Can't have everything! Look at the title again! Aerel? Avions? Must have been printed by a Frog or a Wap best I can tell! No referance to scale. I do have some LARGE books that go into great detail on many aircraft and with awesome illustrations. I miss the Brewster Buffalo! I seen a clip on the flying Superman! The fellows have several designs and are considering going to production! They are electric, you know!

Wayne, this poster hangs on the wall in the lew at the hangar. It is old, and is drooping, but still gives good perspective on the different planes. I like it! There is a B29 flying locally, FIFI! I hear it is down for a motor now, and they are asking for donations. Seems they only need $250,000 for rebuild and a spare!

Nice work man!

Very possible, yet we know nothing about the bike, or your ability to properly clean the carb! Sorry, but the only thing I assume is the worst!

There were two different flywheel weights available as I recall. Lighter one came out in '03 or so and was on the racing version in the US, prolly pound or two difference. Reved out nicely as compared. Not knowing which you have for sure, I would call the importer whth the diameter of yours, they should be able to tell you. As far as gearing goes, I never seen any off stock gears, whatever that is. They seemed fine, nice bike.