copemech

Pics?

No expert here, although just offering general advise as I cannot even recall which carb is on the SY. Sounds as though you know your way round the carbs, yet in my experience many have been fooled by the smallest particle missed in the idle jet or passeges. This is why I usually use a fine wire to pass through it, same for the small passage in the bore of the carb. A blast through with carby spray also helps insure proper flow of the low speed fuel circuit which is basically bypassed using the choke circuit. Hope that helps,

I think the Orange bike may do quite nicely, although a bit different in the engine department. Prolly a better bike in some respects. Although I worry a bit just how long they will continue with the Scorpa brand, one should be able to keep one going for quite a while.

I spelt it in enghish!

Yes, both Sherco and Beta are similar design, not sure the origin of the friction plates in the old gasser, yet Sureflex being the most in the later bikes of that type. You did toutch on a point, and that is the amount of heat in the motor, and I could potentially relate this to other issues such as cold clutch drag and poor(cold start) separation due to sitting and surface tention. Fact is, it can be difficult to get heat into a trials motor, putting around, stopping at sections, the stuff may never warm up on a cold day! I have done a fair amount of experimentation over time with the Shercos, and quite frankly, I think a lot of this may come down to what you expect and may tolerate as a trade. There seems no magic here, as you might imagine, so feel free to experiment as I think it safe and as you have already seen may go either direction. Nothing against synthetics here either, as I ran the Mercedes ATF, prolly similar to Amsoil or others for several years. Bit more thin and rattley, but works a trick because I like a light clutch and can actually pull a couple opposing springs out the basket for my use and still get a good action. You be the judge!

In answer to your specific question, no. I understand what you are asking, and if you do not want to use car engine oil of 10-30(the 5 or 10 is irrelevent), then try using a high quality motorcycle gearbox oil. I use Maxima MTL 75 and there are many other motorcycle specific oils. To each his own, and your clutch bite may vary, such as with ATF, which is of course a bit lighter viscosity.

What rant, that was a complement! I find this chat quite entertaining actually. Wayne slices through the BS here with the vengence of my Chiwawa! And not that I neccessarily have any ill feelings about the others, yet he does make a point. I find it unfortunate that people want to cheat the rules. I find it even more unfortunate that in many ways BIG money comes into play and may be proliferated in many sports. What I am really saying here is the fact it may require entire TEAMS of folks to do this type stuff as I (in my limited knowledge) understand. What I have seen referred to as "blood packing" as example. Now can one do this on his own? Doubt it! And seems common! M2C

So good to hear from you Ridg! Yes, that bike will be hard to replace, nothing out there as docile and durable as the Yam motor. p*** on it, overhaul the thing and replace everythinh now while you may still get it! Ride it another 5 years! Get you a long range kit too if you can still find one!

Ha! I was thinking along the same lines! I have never seen Ham(Wayne) go on such an intellectual rant! He is quite the cunning linguist he is! C-U have N-atural T-alent! Now, as mentioned, do you really think any of these folks pull this stuff off by themselves? Hell no! I have never liked the sport of overpriced pushbikes anyway! If one wants to go out for a healthy ride, go get you a Huffy or a Schwinn! Talk about a load of men in tights! Get over it! "My Carbon Frame weighs 27 grams" and "I got a deal for $2000!!!!" yippie f--- that! Go push some metal you donk!

Hell man, they are selling us the water! Seems nowadays any condensation or ground water just gets absorbed by the alcohol and passed on to us! Same for Diesel it seems, as I understand they are using dispersant to do the same, ant yhis way they never have to clean the sumps on their tanks they are selling from!

Right then lad, let me see if I can "splain" this to you for proper operation. As the float chamber is a sealed container with one inlet and two vents(dellorto) these are the only normal access points for water entry. First one must insure his fuel supply can is free of condensation being poured into the tank, second, the tank is clean, third, fuel is fresh and not been sitting to develop more water dropout from alcohol induced fuel. Second, the open vents on the sides of the bowl. Long tubes on these are not wanted or neccessary. They must breath. Yet I typically use a short length of hose about 50mm primarily to act as a water diflector when using due caution still washing the bike and as to not push any water up into the bowl. Third, even though not a normal water access point into the bowl under normal operation, one can flood the entire airbox and intake with water, washing dirt through the filter, etc. When washing the bike, best to remove mudguard, pull filter, plug the bung and exhaust. Takes two minutes and keeps you from filling the airbox with sewer water! Last tip. If it is muddy, duct tape up the airbix, mudguard junction under mud guard. Fab a drip flap just in front of it out of tape as well, and if really wet riding, run a strip of tape down the side of the mudguard / airbox junction. There you go!

Urgh, could be either of the latter I suppose, as I only have two fingers that type, and I am too close to Mexico!

Sweet bike!

Jes!

I think I have a kit if you need one. Splatshop has them I believe, as well. Should be a 9.5mm diameter 150.00.396 AJP part number if I am correct. PM me if needed.

Good to know, Steve!

On the "11 bike I believe it had the later style Paioli fork still as compared to the new Tech fork. The procedure would still be similar to the old style Paioli as illustrated, yet you need to extract the damper unit from the right leg and pump it to drain ALL the old oil out the damper. Once it is fully drained, and only then, you may go back with 385ml in the left leg and 370ml in the right(damper) side, and stroke it to bleed all air out. By height method Left 110mm, and Right 60mm compressed. If the bike has the Tech fork, there is a tutorial on the Splatshop website, very similar to the late Paiolis, yet by measure height only, so I do not know exact quantity.

OTF, take a look at the Colorado event that Liveob posted up today. The only thing flowing there would be my bowels!

Oh my! I suddenly feel the urge to polish the frame and make some short carbon fiber covers!

All good then, did you get the Viton seals? Once again, this goes to reinforce my theory that the stock seals will only last 2-3 years with the alcohol induced fuels we get. I would plan upon doing the other side soon! Before the bike starts sucking or blowing tranny fluid!

Seems Woody has a good grasp on this timing thing which would apply to most any 2T motor as far as base timing. The only thing I might add here based upon my experience might be when venturing below 2mm BTDC, there could be other adverse effects such as elevated exhaust temps on high rpm running, and with a point system, the closer one gets to TDC, the closer one gets toward the point of potential reversal of engine operation. Points do not know which way things are turning! Thus, if one lugs a motor too much, it could reverse operation and send you travling backwards quickly! I am not sure this exact point, yet I would use caution. There have been deaths due to this issue of a 2T running backwards when too close to TDC. M2C

I looked again at the pic and the standard kiehin or oko setup with adjuster screws on the left side may be difficult with the muff there. What carb it on it? Prob a dellorto? Hopefully a PHBL at least?

I have a bud with one, he is a retired machenist, says it is a POS! I know where there are "ends" but no springs. Even the ends are expensive. And btw, what I was really interisted about your carb is if Jimmy had modded the slide profile. He knows how to do that type stuff! Pics of the bike look good! Later, MC

Finding long rockey burns here is rare where I live. The SSDT does have a natural flow of things that works, and even though there may be some areas here, not enough to do an entire set of sections.

That crap in there does not look good! Sounds like the impeller drive is slipping and the pump is not pumping