lemur

Want to know what will happen after you put lighter pressure plate springs then required in your clutch <- it's going to slip in high gear ranges, same as if you leave 2 of the 6 springs out. Rhetorical question but dimpled steel clutch plates in a wet clutch leaves more space for oil between the plates, do you believe that scenario will make the clutch grab stronger or slip easier 🤔 and with dimpled plates having more oil between the plates and less surface area contacting the friction plates, will that make your clutch feel any lighter to pull at the lever, I think not. Throw in some lighter springs and you have a formula for inducing more clutch slip.

What model tire exactly, is it a tube type tire that you bought? that would account for it, tubeless rims are different profile. ... if it is a tube type tire sell it to somebody that rides an old TY.

The problem you are noting with the Beta 4T throttle response is they fitted the bike with a CV carburetor. Vacuum operated carburetors rob engine intake vacuum pressure to operate the carburetor negatively effecting both the throttle response and the engine performance, in PGM-Fi fuel systems 100% of the engine vacuum pressure is dedicated to intake of air & fuel, Fi does not exhibit the throttle lag and occasional misfires inherent to the CV carbs normal operation.

Yes that normal trashy clutch sound in neutral the 5 plate Montesa clutch does not exhibit, the TRS o-ring fail was very early after receipt of the bike, was leaking down from the start. Fortunately I rarely have clutch problems with any of my vehicles, that tractor lube works perfect, you just never even tried it to know better.

Yes 2 and experienced a failure in a TRS clutch O-ring already. The clutch is not up to par with HRC Cota 315 or 4RT, I have to keep it engaged or it sounds like a bag of bolts.

any particular reason you made that a reply to my post or is that just a habit 🤔

Personally I think you are trying to improve the best clutch in the industry. Hasn't been mentioned yet but there are 2 types of friction plates in the Cota clutch, 3 corks and 2 paper, the consensus was the paper plate gives the clutch more bite, or absorbs less oil and exhibits less compression, depending how you look at it. Key to making the clutch pull lighter is not to weaken the clutch but to improve your clutch actuator leverage at the levers, the further you hold the lever out from the pivot point the more leverage you have against the hydraulics and the greater your friction range is.

It's a well tested and proven fact that cyanoacrylate adhesive is far superior to bung plugs when you want to field repair a slice or puncture in a trials tire, particularly if it is in the sidewall of a 2 ply trials tire, plugs will just make a mess of the damaged area when it's a sidewall split.

... no dude that's just plain stupid.

You can fix most problems with crazy glue 👍

If anybody wants to trash their expensive soft compound radial tubeless competition trials tires after one use, you can throw them my way. Even the worn out tires work good for winter riding after you pump about 600$ worth of carbide grip studs into them 😎

Note that if there is no R in the tire size it's not a radial 🤓 Remember when the Michelin Light came out and they were less money then the X11 version, they are cheaper to produce and have now become the most expensive option available because of supply and demand. The X11 radial is still available and can be had for significantly less money 👍

If it didn't need the ball bearing then they could have made the rod in one piece, if there was no bearing then the ends of the 2 actuator rods would at the very least be rounded and hardened where they contact each other similar to a valve pushrod end. The ball bearing in theory reduces the friction significantly and only needs to spin at half the rate of the 2 rods, it's actually brilliant to have it in there and would serve no purpose to leave it out. How about measuring the straight rod length and have somebody confirm the straight rod part is original 🤓

You need the bearing in there because during operation the T shaped shaft spins relative to the straight shaft, the bearing turns that pressure into point loads in the centre of the 2 shafts, without the bearing between them the shafts will experience considerable more friction. Your clutch is out of engagement by the same diameter as the clutch rod 🤓 add a bearing the same diameter as the clutch rods measure and it should work.

The 4700mF 25V (part# 037.40.022.00.00) capacitor/condenser I made reference to is shown on the homologated version wiring diagram.

Want the scary news, one way for those parts to collide is the result of excess play in the crankshaft bearings. Grab the crank firmly and see if you can detect any play in the crankshaft bearings or in the taper shaft and and inspect the keyway on the armature to eliminate that as being a problem.

Just a few observations and suggestions; 1) your spark plug does not require or use rectified voltage to operate, AC works just fine to produce a spark. 2) that pickup coil needs to be cleaned and the proximity between the pickup and the spinning magnet needs to be as small as possible without ever physically touching. That is likely how you 'fixed' the bike when you removed and reinstalled it. None of those magnet to coil surface interfaces should include rust or metallic debris. 3) the head bolts should provide a solid sparkplug ground. 4) your diagram shows an ignition system with 2 coils, one coil dedicated to spark and the other to 12volt accessories such as LED lights and fan motor. Your photo appear to show a multi phase stator coil 🤔 you might not have the correct wiring diagram or the schematic displays the stator coils in a curious fashion. ... if the bike runs and you want to test the alternator outputs, best is to use an oscilloscope. add: my riding partner crushed a small capacitor that is wired up near the headlight and steering stops crushed it. You might want to check that part assuming his EVO is the same as your EVO add: the black box module almost certainly adjusts spark advance timing and that is likely where the biggest difference is between the various modules. ... timing of the spark is almost the only thing that can be adjusted.

Trunk monkey theft retrieval system 👍

Guessing konrad refers to part 11 and associated bits 👍

For all intent purpose that would be a tiny mechanical fuel pump that activates when the throttle returns to idle position. No such thing is shown on the diagram you attached. & If the bike runs well you really should not be messing with the jetting, but 🤔 if changing the jetting is simply moving the e-clip on the main jet needle I think I would try that.

Too easy, sandpaper the shiny parts off, those are the high spots, eventually the entire pad material will be in contact with steel and you will have full braking again.

Switched the starter button to the left side because for me it makes it much easier to restart without loss of control over the throttle and clutch.

Shorty levers moved way in on the bars, slack adjusted to provide comfortable bend and range for the clutch finger, gives you the most leverage and friction range possible and your lever will never crush your grip fingers 👍 3rd gear pulls from zero to biggest thing I can ride so I ride almost exclusively in 3rd but that really depends on the terrain you ride.

Schematic indicates non regulated to the lights and horn and the regulator is on there for the fan only, the capacitor is on there to make the fan motor work better. All that runs off the lighting or accessory coil which is independent of the ignition coil.

CV carburetor running lean, just like CV carbs were designed to do. You might try raising the needle if the problem happens at greater throttle opening. What does the spark plug look like? & does it smoke at the exhaust &/or is the engine full of carbon ?