lemur

You know you need rim locks or some other way to secure the tire to the rim when the valve stem goes crooked or disappears into the rim or gets sheared off depending on how you have the valve stem locked down, I put one side of the tire on and then push the tube in from the other side tube deflated, install the valve stem, rim locks are in place with the nut backed off completely, push the rim locks in by the bolt and nut when you are mounting the second beed, the rim lock is where you need to install the bead first then work around the rim to about the 3:o'clock position to finish mounting the tire. Don't need soap or water with mounting a tube tire except to test for leaks and to wash the wheel before you work on it.

4T Trials bikes typically have separate oil for the engine and transmission, the transmission oil needs changing when it contains water or the clutch will cause problems as the transmission never gets hot enough to boil the water out. If you are doing lots of water crossings or power wash your motorcycle regularly you will need to change the oil when the clutch starts to make strange sounds or act up. ... They only hold half a litre in each reservoir so it is not a significant cost to change out. The separate engine and transmission oil is a great design because it allows you to use inexpensive hydraulic oil in the transmission suited to wet clutch applications and change it frequently. Separate engine oil enables you to run high tech multi-grade engine oils in the engine if you wish without causing wet clutch problems associated with friction modifiers. Water is slightly less of an issue in the engine oil where the oil is in contact with very hot parts but it has a paper oil filter that will have issues if that contains water. ... Do you power wash your bikes, operate in a wet environment and do lots of deep water crossings? <- you need to change out the oils and filters more often compared to the guy riding a dirty dirt bike in an arid environment.

If it is a radial it will have an R stamp in the tire size, and/or clearly state Radial on the tire sticker. If it does not say Radial or R then it is not a radial tire. Radial tires typically cost more. You can safely run a rear trials tire in either direction on a trials bike, happens all the time. One rim lock might not even do it, you might need two rim locks if the tire does not fit the rim tight, two rim locks on the rear was common in the days before radial tubeless tires became common. If the tire slides on the rim it will typically shear off the valve stem leaving you with a tube that can not be patched. All of that just to run a cheaper tire that performs less, weighs more and is far harder to install. Tubes and rim locks are no longer cheap and you might even spend more coin to convert to tube type compared to just running the correct tire. Tubeless rim and tires have a different bead shape compared to tube type.

When I ran tubeless tires on a tube type rim they were almost impossible to bead suggesting the tubeless tire rides tighter on the rim, going the other way around you will have the opposite problem; about the only way you could do it is to glue the tire on the rim and that would both seal in the air and stop the tire from moving on the rim. Is the tire radial or bias ply? Best to buy the correct tire and better to run a radial.

Locks only stop honest people -> 'out of sight out of mind' Best way to secure a motorcycle in a garage area where it might be stolen from is to put the motorcycle inside a locking container.

If it has 'top hat' washers then it is is a floating brake 😐 the type of disc brake where the disc needs to float to centre the disc between the pads. To do that the disc needs to float side to side and not radially, if the washers are worn in 2 spots radially you can loosen the retaining blot and rotate the top hat washer so it wears in a new place.

🤙🏾 I was there for a month trying to rent and ride there but sadly it never happened. Terrain looked awesome for trials riding in places I'm sure you're not allowed to ride.

& Aloha what island do you ride? 😎

Determine if your clutch operates on DOT brake fluid or thin Oil Determine if the problem is in the Master cylinder, brake line or Slave cylinder Replace parts and install is fairly easy requiring very few special tools outside of possibly a big plastic medical type syringe similar to in the picture below Easiest way to fluid fill is generally from the bottom bleed vent screw

Did it leak out where you can see it or inside the engine casings?

In all likelihood there will be more then one capacitor involved, the big one connected to the fuel pump acts like a battery and would almost certainly be dedicated to the fuel pump which is the highest draw on the alternator.

How do they prove negligence unless they were being held under water by the land owners 🤔 that's the part I can never figure out.

Make sure absolutely everyone signs the 'I'm not your mommy' waiver form, everybody that didn't sign is trespassing 👍

Non graded bearings will simply never be as good as a better bearing even when you first install them, that's a reality, will they spin your wheel around and around, yes and maybe even a little bit sideways give or take. Guess I'm saying how do you think they come up with 5 grades of deep groove roller bearings and then there are the ones y'all are buying at 4 bucks each and not graded at all. Wheel bearings are obviously very important and highly stressed on a trials bike, was asked what I use and recommend and that's it, graded name brand bearings. I don't pay that much but I don't buy them in US, maybe it's a tariff thing

Because there is only 2 bearings and they are carrying a wheel that is 27 something inches in diameter. Small amount of play in the axle bearing results in large amount of movement in the wheel. You can push thin oil into a wheel bearing with an insulin syringe and displace the water, might be wise after your next deep water crossing, makes them last longer.

So you figure a 4$ roller bearing with only 7 balls and zero claim to tolerance is as good as the one with 9 balls, costs 4 times the price and meets a high tolerance spec 🤔 interesting. Yes you need to keep the water out of any roller bearing, that is what the grease and oil does, it displaces the water. ... if it was for the track idler wheel on a 1968 snowmobile I would agree with you.

You are going to find bearings have a precision rating, low numbers are low quality, higher number ABEC rating cost more. Same tool is good for pressing in the new bearing, use an old bearing to push the new one in, works slick.

SKF from a local being supply 6 or 8 at a time. You can buy different specs, expensive bearings have more balls and tighter specs. ... made up a puller to change them super easy, the steel sleeve to extract the bearing spacer is cut from a used CO2 canister.

If you grab the tire by the front and rear and give it a sturdy wiggle rotating action about the vertical axis and can observe any change in the chain slack, that is a clear indication the wheel bearings need replacement or the swingarm bearing needs attention. Bad bearings also contribute to reduced braking. I end up replacing wheel bearings more then chains and that is buying the higher quality bearings ymmv.

If the chain tensioner is doing something when the bike is at rest with no rider aboard you are good to go, if the rubber block is touching the swingarm at rest that's not good. ... so far this year alone I spotted 3 bikes with the axle set crooked and I noticed it because the chain tensioner was doing nothing when they parked their bikes. Make sure the axle is good and tight and that your wheel bearings are perfect, wheel bearings wear out fast.

😄 I think he is talking about the rider with both feet down and picking the bike up by the handlebars 🤔 looks like me except I can't pick a bike up by the handlebars.

Wait 🤔 you lined an aluminum fuel tank because it was rusting?

CV carburetors operate off intake vacuum pressure that is literally robbed from the engines intake stroke. Key to making a Beta 4T respond as well as a Montesa 4RT would be to install PGM-Fi instead of a carburetor and the vacuum operated fuel tap. PGM-Fi self adjusts to any altitude and air temperature changes and the engine intake vacuum pressure is 100% dedicated to engine performance, by comparison carburetors basically suck.

This right here is why I no longer want to check at an important trials event, far too much ambiguity around the rules and the rules keep changing to advantage the entertainment of the near non-existent observers. The solution to the problem is in the building of the section, you can build a section that is suited to a no-stop ride and you can keep the perimeter tape far enough back from the ride line so that it never becomes a problem of somebody wanting or needing to cross it, you can lay out a section short enough to easy be ridden in an allocated time, or you can make a section so long that nobody can complete it in time.

Montesa 👍 Viva! "Meets current EPA standardsModels sold in California meet current CARB standards and may differ slightly due to emissions equipment"