lemur

I've used Kubota, New Holland (Ambra) Johne Deere and Hyundai branded oils and found them all to work almost equally well, Yes to hydraulic oils using a different spec then multi-grade engine oils. ISO spec on what I'm running now is ISO 46 Excavators and farm tractors have everything inside them that you will ever find in a motorcycle transmission but typically operate way longer hours in far more extreme conditions. I owned an excavator that carried 45 gallons of hydraulic oil and it even had a water separator on the hydraulic oil. A motorcycle transmission doesn't need multi-grade engine oil that contains detergents or friction modifiers which are counter-productive to the machines operation, you don't want oil that turns to bubbles and you don't want water, fuel or friction modifiers in contact with your rubberized cork clutch plates, hence hydraulic oil changed frequently is perfect for the job. ... the concept of synthetic oil is that it theoretically lasts longer and requires fewer changes, but the best scenario for your motorcycles clutch and transmission oil is to replace the oil frequently.

Do both! Trials bikes have a great advantage the more ice there is and enduro bikes do way better in the deeper snow, the enduro bikes crash way more spectacular. I run 1740 grip studs on spent trials tires, same studs they use in the front tire on an enduro knobby. I ride sheet metal screws on the front tire except for a row of 1740 studs down the middle row of knobs and that works great as long as there's not too much powder snow. The enduro bike rear knobby can run the really long grip studs which is what makes them better in the deep snow. Great thing is; with global warming we see more sleet and freezing rain then snowfall here now, so we ride every time the temperature is above minus double-digit freezing. ... at ~-20C motorcycle tires freeze and disintegrate so I don't ride in the extreme cold any more. Y'all should try it if you possibly can, it's incredible fun and great practice for staying in shape over the winter months highly recommended. Grip studs are not cheap, they cost around a buck and a half each and a knobby can hold over 300 of them but studs last several years when you can thread them out and install them into a different tire.

Anybody else riding grip-studs to extend your riding season?

Montesa having fuel injection and no battery makes it imperative that the engine completes one+ rotation at idle speed for it to start running. That's all you really need to do to start it, get the engine spinning and producing enough electricity to make things work. Step one do not touch the throttle when you kick it, that messes up the fuel injection. Don't jab at the kickstarter like a 2-stroke, kick it like you are trying to spin the engine up to idle speed only, nice steady speed. It's going to want to be in neutral too. If the engine is parked in 10 below freezing temperatures the oil will be too thick to allow it to spin up fast enough, they are that sensitive to anything that will resist the crank spinning freely. Here's the critical part - there is a decompressor on the camshaft that needs to do its thing on that first kick over, or the crank won't spin over fast enough to catch that vital second engine cycle which equals a running engine. That decompressor is super tiny to say the least and is very dependant on the valve clearance setting being on spec or it will never activate. I've had 5 Montesa 4RT's since 2005 and owned 3 of them all at the same time, when one failed to start I swapped everything assembly imaginable from one machine to the other with no joy. I finally adjusted the valve clearance even though the compression readings were not terrible and bang, first kick starting engine from then on and ever after. All 5 my Montesa 4RT's have required the same service after several years of operation. For that matter every Honda engine I've ever owned has needed a valve clearance adjustment after several years operation, generators & lawn equipment included. Difficult to adjust the valve clearances without dropping the engine from the frame on the 4RT at least slightly but the screw adjusters make it possible to set the clearances very accurately, way better than bucket and shims. The square screw head is the same size as a Robertson (red) screw, you can improvise a tool to hold the valve adjuster in place while you tighten the lock nut, by simply putting a Robertson screw into the end of a short wood stick, you don't need to buy a special tool. Have a micrometer handy so you can check the size and 'feel' of your feeler gauges when the clearance is correct and your results will be much better.

It's the same thing they use in farm tractors. Key is to replace it as soon as you get water in it and you'll know that happened when the clutch starts making nasty noises then drains out with a milky colour, that's water. I use Kubota branded oil right now.

at the risk of repeating myself lol All season excavator hydraulic oil 👍 cheap because you buy it in huge quantities and need only half a litre for a motorcycle oil change, works great even in sub zero temperature riding, change it frequently and it's the right stuff. Great for 2-stoke transmissions and Montesa Cota 4RT transmission which is separate from the engine oil. My 4RT is what I stud up for riding through the winter months, great bike for it 😎

All season excavator hydraulic oil 👍 cheap because you buy it in huge quantities and need only half a litre for a motorcycle oil change, works great even in sub zero temperature riding, change it frequently and it's the right stuff. Great for 2-stoke transmissions and Montesa Cota 4RT transmission which is separate from the engine oil.

Teteer-totters or anything that moves makes for a dangerous demonstration, same with wood. Concrete patio stones with holes drilled in them and lag bolts into inexpensive landscape timbers is perfect. You build ladder like structures and bolt them together like natural rock formations. Sprayed on concrete over wire mesh forms would be even better. Build your whole section to assemble onto a tilt box trailer and you have an impressive mobile trials section that every class can ride.

Threaded rod, large socket, couple of nuts 👍 so easy, the sleeve part is cut out of a spent CO2 canister like they use in paint ball or pellet guns. Use the same tool to insert the new bearings, no hammer and no heat is required because you can pull the bearing straight in or out.

On the mono bloc 4 pot clippers that have no cotter pin or bolt holding the pads in place, the pistons on outside are prone to seize. Watch for wear on only one of the two pads if your brake is weak. I literally forced the working pad to stay retracted and by applying hydraulic pressure at the lever the seized side popped free. Corrosion on the inside of the 2 aluminum threaded plugs is suspect and I've only seen that problem on that one specific model calliper. I think it was 2017 they used that brake model extensively.

First the rod will be too short by the diameter of the ballbearing that was suppose to be in there and second; the ballbearing is in there to isolate the spinning parts from the non-spinning part (the actuator rod) so if you left the bearing out, first hint would be not enough adjustment and if you worked past that issue, the next problem will be the rod will want to spin when pressure is applied to the actuator. If the ball bearing doesn't fall out using gravity try a magnet.

– PRE-ENTRY REQUIRED details available on the ATA website: https://www.ataont.ca/ata-arden-trial-july-16th-2023-pre-entry-required/

Cleaning and lubricating Plain roller chain Remove and place the chain inside a large (4 litre) disposable plastic oil jug. Add kerosene or your favourite cleaning fluid. Close the container, agitate and then drain off the dirty solvent, repeat process if necessary until the chain is clean inside and out. Now pour thick gear oil into the oil container along with your chain. (inexpensive chainsaw bar oil works dandy and is available in a variety of weights) Shake and then leave it set until lubricant has completely penetrated into the rollers and pins of the chain. Hang the chain on a hook over a catch pan until all the excess oil has run off, wipe the chain lightly and re-install on your bike. Ride motorcycle vigorously and repeat Unsure how much your chain is bagged out, then lay or hang it next to a length of new chain, if it's stretched out by one link over the length of ~100 link chain then your chain is stretched by 1% and on the way to needing replacement soon if you want your sprockets to last.

We host trials rider and minder training here. Apply within 😎

I don't even need to read the thread to know that if a 4RT gets hard to start or outright fails for no obvious reason, it needs a valve adjustment. Not a check or inspection, but a very careful and accurate reset of the valve clearances.

CMA is nothing more than an event insurance broker that periodically records the event results that somebody else built and participated in. If that's all you ever expect from them then you won't be disappointed.

New old retired guy that has no life other than riding & hosting mototrials and extreme enduro competition events near Arden Ontario Canada 😎