lemur

75N/mm - rider weight 80 to 90kg 80N/mm - rider weight 90 to 100kg 85N/mm - rider weight +100kg du site Web de jitsie

Normal long day ride for me is near 2 tanks full, tank is roughly 2 litres. Montesa/Honda engine is fuel injected so I don't let the fuel tank go empty, fuel is the only thing that cools the fuel pump.

TRS 300RR is my other ride, fuel consumption is considerable, manual calls for 98 octane fuel + 1% 2-stroke oil, x-trac version is the same bike with a bigger tank. Great bike for competition; extremely spirited handling, tons of power down low in the revs and launches strong in 3rd and even 4th from a dead stop, being a 2-stroke it reaches max rpm rapidly.

curious, what do you do with a Wombat, sell it to zoo's ?

I bet if you went over there and introduced yourself, somebody would let you try their Montesa or maybe anything else! The clubs and social aspects of riding trials bikes are well worth the effort. Following better riders is what will make you a better rider.

You would need to change oil in a 4RT that frequently if you were Toni Bou and somebody else was paying for everything, otherwise; 4RT would be an excellent choice for you and will not require any more maintenance then any other trials bike. Oil capacity is only half a litre of engine oil plus half a litre of transmission oil separate, the oil filter is commonly available and inexpensive. Montesa is a sturdy built machine with very few shortcomings, they handle very subtle and grounded compared to many 2-stroke competitive machines, they have an incredibly wide power band that is very old guy friendly (I have 7 years on you) Montesa being 4-stoke consumes less fuel, doesn't require pre-mix and is happy to perform on lower octane fuel. Trials bikes are quiet enough to sneak up on wildlife, we do that every day and see lots of Deer, Bobcats, Moose and everything else on a regular basis. You can get an extra fuel tank that mounts behind your number plate if you need greater range. Trials bikes were more expensive then Enduro bikes and Trials bike parts more expensive, but based on riders here the Enduro bikes drop a lot more money over the course of a season because they crash and break far more frequently. Modern bikes are far lighter then twin-shock vintage models and won't bruise your legs near as bad when they do fall on you, once you are accustom to riding the modern rides are far easier to survive on and well worth the extra investment. Any version of the 4RT is Highly recommended for your planned use 👍

6 out of 9 planned sections are already set out, the rest will be ready by the end or the weekend, it's going to be serious hard if it rains but sections are wide so there are alternatives, if it's dry it will just be a regular Arden lol. Loop is very short and close to the pits, the rest of the land is for practice and play. I'm looking at 4 loops for all classes except Novice requiring only 3 loops. Now for the most important announcement: Bring bug spray 🪰 it seems to work

Service manual calls for 580 ml ATF type which is way lower viscosity then 75W gear oil. <- might want to check that. I would expect to see some clutch drag in any motorcycle if the viscosity is very high (75W) and oil level is above normal. ATF is way closer to the ISO46 hydraulic oil that I run with viscosity ratings closer to 20W relative to engine oil. If only one gear range drags I would be looking for a problem on the gear itself or the shift mechanism associated with it rather than the clutch which will affect all of the gear ranges. 2022 model certainly should not be experiencing gear problems if it was assembled correctly at the factory. The motivation for using DOT fluid in brakes is in the event you have a brake system leakage then you will be spilling ethyl glycol on your brakes instead of oil. If your clutch hydraulics leak they leak outside or into your transmission oil so it is far more logical to use oil in a clutch hydraulics. The hydraulic fluid needs to be compatible with what you use for hardware, but for the mot part DOT brake fluid is more problematic when it comes to corrosion and water absorption. (most DOT fluid is hygroscopic in nature, it absorbs water from the atmosphere, water is not a problem with the thin mineral oil used in a clutch hydraulics.

fwiw 4RT came with 2 different length kickstart levers over the years, the one pictured above is the longer one that comes on a 300RR I found the long actually don't jam up as badly or wear out your right boot like the shorter one does. Little easier to kick.

Are you looking for OEM parts? The kickstart lever can be replaced with one from a different motorcycle model and it's usually a significant upgrade, the originals are not very good, same with bars, aftermarket aluminum bars are a significant upgrade. Crankcase cover you need to state the model year, they changed them once.

Still time to enter 😎 – PRE-ENTRY REQUIRED flier and form here: https://www.ataont.ca/ata-arden-trial-july-16th-2023-pre-entry-required/

I am in eastern Ontario! several of the area riders have indoor riding barns or sheds organized for next season, I built my retirement home in the middle of my riding area, so open the door on the heated garage and I'm already at the best riding spot in the country 😎 I keep about 12km of hard enduro type trail open, same trails I rode today actually. @apriljo do I already know you? are you April as in April that rides a brand new GasGas

The whole point is you don't need or want additives. An excavator is something that can pick up a Tesla and throw it about 30 feet, if you tried to run special motorcycle transmission oil in one you'd go broke real fast and I guarantee it wouldn't run any better. There is enough pressure on the oil to boil water, nothing comes close to thst duty inside a motorcycle engine. I've run it in trials competition for decades with zero clutch issues, 2-stroke or 4RT. ? "Elf oil they regard so highly is made for a dry clutch" where are you going to put the oil in a dry clutch lol that's not going to work so good.

What model forks? You have options, Jitsie sells aluminum stanchions for my bikes and they are highly recommended. The chrome won't be chrome unless it is over a copper layer that is over a layer of zinc or nickel, if you put chrome directly onto steel the steel becomes a sacrificial metal. Single layer of electroplate on steel will be mostly zinc.

I've used Kubota, New Holland (Ambra) Johne Deere and Hyundai branded oils and found them all to work almost equally well, Yes to hydraulic oils using a different spec then multi-grade engine oils. ISO spec on what I'm running now is ISO 46 Excavators and farm tractors have everything inside them that you will ever find in a motorcycle transmission but typically operate way longer hours in far more extreme conditions. I owned an excavator that carried 45 gallons of hydraulic oil and it even had a water separator on the hydraulic oil. A motorcycle transmission doesn't need multi-grade engine oil that contains detergents or friction modifiers which are counter-productive to the machines operation, you don't want oil that turns to bubbles and you don't want water, fuel or friction modifiers in contact with your rubberized cork clutch plates, hence hydraulic oil changed frequently is perfect for the job. ... the concept of synthetic oil is that it theoretically lasts longer and requires fewer changes, but the best scenario for your motorcycles clutch and transmission oil is to replace the oil frequently.

Do both! Trials bikes have a great advantage the more ice there is and enduro bikes do way better in the deeper snow, the enduro bikes crash way more spectacular. I run 1740 grip studs on spent trials tires, same studs they use in the front tire on an enduro knobby. I ride sheet metal screws on the front tire except for a row of 1740 studs down the middle row of knobs and that works great as long as there's not too much powder snow. The enduro bike rear knobby can run the really long grip studs which is what makes them better in the deep snow. Great thing is; with global warming we see more sleet and freezing rain then snowfall here now, so we ride every time the temperature is above minus double-digit freezing. ... at ~-20C motorcycle tires freeze and disintegrate so I don't ride in the extreme cold any more. Y'all should try it if you possibly can, it's incredible fun and great practice for staying in shape over the winter months highly recommended. Grip studs are not cheap, they cost around a buck and a half each and a knobby can hold over 300 of them but studs last several years when you can thread them out and install them into a different tire.

Anybody else riding grip-studs to extend your riding season?

Montesa having fuel injection and no battery makes it imperative that the engine completes one+ rotation at idle speed for it to start running. That's all you really need to do to start it, get the engine spinning and producing enough electricity to make things work. Step one do not touch the throttle when you kick it, that messes up the fuel injection. Don't jab at the kickstarter like a 2-stroke, kick it like you are trying to spin the engine up to idle speed only, nice steady speed. It's going to want to be in neutral too. If the engine is parked in 10 below freezing temperatures the oil will be too thick to allow it to spin up fast enough, they are that sensitive to anything that will resist the crank spinning freely. Here's the critical part - there is a decompressor on the camshaft that needs to do its thing on that first kick over, or the crank won't spin over fast enough to catch that vital second engine cycle which equals a running engine. That decompressor is super tiny to say the least and is very dependant on the valve clearance setting being on spec or it will never activate. I've had 5 Montesa 4RT's since 2005 and owned 3 of them all at the same time, when one failed to start I swapped everything assembly imaginable from one machine to the other with no joy. I finally adjusted the valve clearance even though the compression readings were not terrible and bang, first kick starting engine from then on and ever after. All 5 my Montesa 4RT's have required the same service after several years of operation. For that matter every Honda engine I've ever owned has needed a valve clearance adjustment after several years operation, generators & lawn equipment included. Difficult to adjust the valve clearances without dropping the engine from the frame on the 4RT at least slightly but the screw adjusters make it possible to set the clearances very accurately, way better than bucket and shims. The square screw head is the same size as a Robertson (red) screw, you can improvise a tool to hold the valve adjuster in place while you tighten the lock nut, by simply putting a Robertson screw into the end of a short wood stick, you don't need to buy a special tool. Have a micrometer handy so you can check the size and 'feel' of your feeler gauges when the clearance is correct and your results will be much better.

It's the same thing they use in farm tractors. Key is to replace it as soon as you get water in it and you'll know that happened when the clutch starts making nasty noises then drains out with a milky colour, that's water. I use Kubota branded oil right now.

at the risk of repeating myself lol All season excavator hydraulic oil 👍 cheap because you buy it in huge quantities and need only half a litre for a motorcycle oil change, works great even in sub zero temperature riding, change it frequently and it's the right stuff. Great for 2-stoke transmissions and Montesa Cota 4RT transmission which is separate from the engine oil. My 4RT is what I stud up for riding through the winter months, great bike for it 😎

All season excavator hydraulic oil 👍 cheap because you buy it in huge quantities and need only half a litre for a motorcycle oil change, works great even in sub zero temperature riding, change it frequently and it's the right stuff. Great for 2-stoke transmissions and Montesa Cota 4RT transmission which is separate from the engine oil.

Teteer-totters or anything that moves makes for a dangerous demonstration, same with wood. Concrete patio stones with holes drilled in them and lag bolts into inexpensive landscape timbers is perfect. You build ladder like structures and bolt them together like natural rock formations. Sprayed on concrete over wire mesh forms would be even better. Build your whole section to assemble onto a tilt box trailer and you have an impressive mobile trials section that every class can ride.

Threaded rod, large socket, couple of nuts 👍 so easy, the sleeve part is cut out of a spent CO2 canister like they use in paint ball or pellet guns. Use the same tool to insert the new bearings, no hammer and no heat is required because you can pull the bearing straight in or out.

On the mono bloc 4 pot clippers that have no cotter pin or bolt holding the pads in place, the pistons on outside are prone to seize. Watch for wear on only one of the two pads if your brake is weak. I literally forced the working pad to stay retracted and by applying hydraulic pressure at the lever the seized side popped free. Corrosion on the inside of the 2 aluminum threaded plugs is suspect and I've only seen that problem on that one specific model calliper. I think it was 2017 they used that brake model extensively.

First the rod will be too short by the diameter of the ballbearing that was suppose to be in there and second; the ballbearing is in there to isolate the spinning parts from the non-spinning part (the actuator rod) so if you left the bearing out, first hint would be not enough adjustment and if you worked past that issue, the next problem will be the rod will want to spin when pressure is applied to the actuator. If the ball bearing doesn't fall out using gravity try a magnet.