dabomb

Hi all,i`m going to respoke my front wheel.Its looking a tad tatty with rusty nipples,and theres also some loose ones with siezed nipples.I have done a push bike wheel years ago without any problems.I`ve got all the new spokes and nipples so i`m ready to go. I just wondered if anyone knows of any websites or web postings that i could look at before i start. Thanks in advance.

Sounds good.What sort of terrain is there???,is it a busy venue??

Hi all,has anybody been to the hemitage farm trials area near ipstones??.I`m thinking of having a weekend there with a few pals.Can anybody recomend it?, Thanks in advance.

I was gonna post a pic but hovis`s scorpa makes my 04 sherco look like ****

Great vid and great weather for december:thumbup: .Whish we had some sunny days like that this time of year in the UK,i`m sick of all this bloody wind and rain

Firstly,are you using the clicky ratchet straps?there are some others that people use that dont actually have a ratchet,more of a wedge type thing,these are not much good. If you have a strap on each end of the bars,and the wheel is chocked so it cant move from side to side,it cant actually go anywhere.I`m guessing the front wheel is up against the cab so it cant move foward either. Just make sure the straps are actually pulling the bike foward against the cab.

NO!,the cheap ones make you sweat like a pig.Splash out(no pun intended),get a pair of good quality breathable ones,they will last a long time.

I`ve had a regina on for a year now,its stretched so much that i had to buy the o/size chain adjusters.But,that said,its to expected because its the cheapest chain.Its still on my bike but i am going to try a renthal this time. Before that i used an iris with no problems. Doesn`t Dougie and Adam Raga use iris??? http://www.dirtbikebook.com/acatalog/Brows...Chains_165.html Yep,thought i`d read that somewhere.Cant be that crap then!!

Could be the stator.Symptoms of a dodgy stator are bike runs for 20mins then stops.wont start `till engine has cooled.Start engine again,stops again ofter 20mins. I had this problem on my 290,new stator sorted it. Hope this helps Also check for chaffed wiring in the area under the fuel tank,my mates bike had problems with this,but it was the cooling fan that wasnt coming on due to a chaffed wire earthing out,worth a look though

Hello folks,my son, who will be 12 in january,is going to start entering some local club trials in the new year on his 125 gasser.My question is what class should he be riding in,A B C D??. Thanks in advance

Got new clutch.Thing are looking good Pack width 9.75,finger height now 17.25mm!!!. Hopefully will get it back in thursday.Job almost done

Thanks jon,i`ve just done some measuring,my fibre plates measure 2.23mm(all three),metal 1.62mm,total 9.9mm!!!.This explains the 15mm finger height.I must have measured them incorrectly first time round I think the best thing to do is get a new clutch pack then hopefully it will be job done. I will order monday AM,watch this space!!

Ok i`m gonna try a .1mm smaller shim before i buy a complete new clutch.While i`ve got the clutch in bits,how thick should the fibre plates be?,i`ve never had a clutch in bits before,they could be totally shot and i wouldnt even know Cheers

so what are we saying,make the clutch pack smaller so i can achieve the 17/17.5mm??.Will it not go out of tollerance??

Thanks jon,but the clutch pack measures the correct size,IE 9.8mm,so why is the 17mm measurement so far out??

Hey thanks for the link about the clutch.Every thing checks exept... 1/ The 17/17.5 is only 15mm 2/ The info says insert the thickest fibre plate first,but they are all the same....Isuppose this means new clutch pack then??

Thanks for the replies,i`m running on dextron 3 already.The adjustment screw doesnt change the the clutch,there`s not much you can do with that anyway beacause you have to have it so that the piston is released fully when you let go of the clutch lever,if it doesnt it can cause other problems i am told. I will measure the clutch thickness and start from there.I will also change the o ring and seal just to eliminate it. Cheers

Hi chaps,i need to sort this dragging clutch out on my sons bike.its not a major problem but i just want it right for him. I`ve been advised to buy a new clutch pack,but before i do,has anyone had the same problem??,i know about measuring the plates etc,but i`ve been told that it could be the `o`ring behind the top hat thingy behind the casing thats worn. The lever is nice and light,clutch operation is smooth,and yes i have back bled the clutch from the casing. Another thing is that although its dragging when lever is pulled back to the bars,the biting point is in what i would say is a normal position. Got any tips??? Thanks in advance

Hi all,Is it neccesary to drain the trans oil before removing the clutch cover on a 03, 125 pro? Cheers.

Sorry ham 2,i was replying to the fist post(bobtlr).The reason i ask,is because i had a similar problem my self regarding the spluttering etc.The previous owner of my bike(sherco 290) had replaced the piston,but putit in the wrong way round(believe it or not),took a mechanic to find it because the the guy i bought it off said he had never touched the engine,so i never looked for that sort of problem. If you read this bobtlr,best way to check is remove the front pipe then crank the engine over,make sure the bottom of the piston doesnt come above the bottom edge of the port.

......Ipone 2 stroke oil .Anybody know where i can pick some up within a 10-15mile radius of Burnley?? Cheers in advance.

Has the engine been taken apart before this fault started??

Excelent chaps!Thanks

Hi all,sombody recently posted a video link to a gasgas guy explaining among other things how to remove the clutch casing and inspect the clutch on a gasgas pro.Does anybody know which site it was,or maybe you know where the link is?,I cant find it. Cheers in advance

If its M30 x 1.5mm pitch,buy this.... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...E:IT&ih=004