g4321

Thanks Booma. Had a play around with the problematic bike before today & it appears the problem of the pipe kinking has been partially due to the mounting bracket for the tap having been bent out of place some time in the past, this meant that whatever pipe you used the angle between tap & carb was too tight. A little bit of twisting, some braided pipe & and external spring on the bend SEEMS to have solved my problems. With the location of the shock it is not practical to reverse the tap piping.

I thought about this as well but surely as long as the tank outlet is above the carb float valve there should be no problem. I think I am just going to have to spend some time playing around with the various options (lengths & positions & types of pipe & your routing) to cure problem. All the best Gordon

t-shock 250 Thanks a lot for for the reply & photo - looks like you are using a different routing to me. ie - you have tank to top of tap then bottom of tap to carb. As you say, you have never had starvation problems, so this obviously works for you. One of my bikes - no problems at all with the opposite routing to you (this is same as shown in 'superhondamans' picture.) Since looking at your picture I haad a browse through the other messages to see if there was a picture to confirm my original choice ( which I am pretty sure is std pipe layout). http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2884 the other bike - I have tried different fuel pipes but have suffered same problem a couple of times. I will look at routing you are using but it may be that on the Gollner bike the tap position has been changed. Its not a major problem to overcome but it is very irritating when a bike runs in the garage & 5 miles up the road it wont due to something so trivial!

Honda rS Can you confirm whether or not the pipe routing I have is standard?

'Bigfoot' Lets hope its all sorted out before the end of the month, otherwise there will be a lot of unhappy competitors (me included) having to lay out for day licences! Hows the training going for the SSDT then? - the weather we have at the moment will be ideal for 'toughening you up' for all those bleak moor crossings. Gordon

Has anyone received their 2005 SACU trials licence yet. Applied for mine before Christmas, but as yet nothing back. Gordon

I have two TLR250's - one std, one in a Gollner monoshock frame. On both bikes the petrol pipe goes from the tank, through the filter to the BOTTOM of the petrol tap then to the carb. this as far as i know is the standard pipe routing (unless you know different ?) The reason for my question is that on one bike I am being plagued by petrol starvation due to kinking in the petrol pipe going fronm the carb to the tank, I have tried longer & shorter pipes and now a braided/thicker pipe but the problem still occurs. Has anyone else had the same problem? I think the solution is to space the tap out from the frame (if you have a TLR250 you will know what I mean!) or use an alternative routing. Tomorrow I will be experimenting but if anyone has any suggestions? Gordon

Nigel Dabster - or whatever your real name is try to remember that this is a discussion board where people post THEIR OPINIONS. lets face it not everyone agrees on the same things but EVERYONE is entitled to state their opinion . You may not agree with the chap whose alias is Honda RS regarding Bultaco gearboxes but there is no reason to misscall the other person. - one of you has had good experiences with them and the other bad - does that mean he is the expert or you are the expert - try to remember that everyone is only stating their opinions. Lets face it I agree with some of what you have put on this website and same with HondaRS, then again I dont agree with lots of what you both say. Lets not have 'online' bickering - neither of you are primary schoolkids - I HOPE!

Booma Was this pipe routing to allow you to clean out the petrol filter without having to drain tank? - or was there another reason. How well does this pipe routing work, is there any kinking ? I have had problems with a kinked pipe causing fuel starvation recently and I nreed to try re-routing the fuel pipes to try and avoid this . I also now have some more braided pipe which will be less prone to kinking. Gordon

Just to confirm that having the wrongly crossmatched springs was the source of my problems. Honda springs have cured the slip I was suffering, EBC have changed their cross-reference for the TLR250 clutch spring and are giving me a full refund! Happy now - just need to learn to ride better!

Few and far between in NE Scotland but the man I know with the 'rent a carts' was once a fairly high standard go-cart racer and is a source of knowledge regarding all these things. I may havew another solution in maind - watch this space! I have turned down the old top and fitted a sleeve to make this longer and a tight fit in the tank. This will suffice for the moment BUT if anyone comes up with a 41mm ID bung type top suggestion i look forward to hearing from you! Gordon

Thanks for the info but unfortunatelly this is too small, I should have clarified on my original post that the ID was 41mm, not the OD. As for the reply on Go-cart tops this does seem promising, the top I have does appear to be original, looking at the various pictures I have seen of the Gollner Honda (not a lot I hasten to add) and is black in colour. I will have a word with the man at the local 'rent a go-cart' track & possibly local lawnmower shop (same motors!) The drawback with the welding on of a threaded spigot is space or lack of it - I would have to greatly enlarge the apeture in the tank cover to allow this to be taken off the alloy tank (even with tank cap removed). Gordon

Anyone tried a Mitas rear tyre?

Thanks for the replies so far guys - keep it coming! Local breakers did not identify anything similar I have access to turning facilities but dont have a big enough bit of alloy lying around to turn my own cap! Looking for size info on SWM & Montesa options as suggested by other replies. Gordon

Seeing the discussion is on tyres - has anyone tried the Mitas (barum) trials tyre ? Gordon

Nice looking bike - pity about the fag company name on the side! Did you have to do much work on the motor? Trying to see how you have routed the petrol pipes - from the tank to the top of the tap then from the bottom of the tap through a filter to the carb - am I correct.

Can anyone give me any suggestions what bike uses a simple 'bung' type petrol top of roughly 41mm diameter. The top I got with the bike is of a hard rubber/artificial rubber material with a plastic top, this has Chinese or Japanese style writing on it but no-one seems to know what it comes from. I am pretty sure its from an obscure bike oil tank or petrol tank. Unfortunately this is too worn to seal, hence the car cap I am using. Alternatively has anyone any suggestions what I could use - or modify to use as a top. I have just machined the original top for 2 O rings but am still not happy with the seal on this. I have been using one of those emergency car petrol tank tops but its not really satisfactory, tending to leak on steep climbs/drops or when the bike is on its side!. I can probably modify this top a little more but I thinks the sealing surface will still be too small Its on a Gollner Honda.

Sorry to be cynical but: No doubt this is a minor issue but what would happen if someone blips the throttle or rides off straight after the bike is started from cold. Lets face riders are human and how many of us obey the instructions laid down in the bike handbooks on starting/warming up by the letter . What will happen 2 years down the line when the bikes have been sold on to a 2nd or 3rd owner and they dont read the instructions before starting the bike? Are Honda (sorry Montesa) coming out with a revised ECU sensor on all future bikes & will this be retro-fitted to all current bikes if requested?

Strangely enough I had a similar problem while out practicing today - after some detective work it appears to have been caused by a kinked petrol pipe restricting flow and causing a partial air lock. The pipe is between tap and carb - the TLR250 has a remote tap. Gordon

Anyone know the standard cub swinging arm length - might be useful

Couple of thoughts - all you have probably tried/done already. Spark Plug - No doubt you have tried a different plug & are using correct plug - one other thing to try (I have seen this on another Honda) is try a non resistor plug. Its not like a two stroke where the plug always appears wet when it aint sparking. Have you cleaned out the fuel filter on the bike - if its a 250 there is a separate filter, I have had problems where water (and dirt) has partially clogged the filter causing the bike to run badly when hot, missing and stopping as you describe. If its a 200 there will be a filter above the fuel tap within the tank. I found this on my bike a few times - probbably due to condensation - steel tank & wooden shed & cold weather = condensation = water in fuel = pain in neck! In addition check that the vent hole on the tank is clear - again this can cause starvation. The only other thing that comes to mind are valve clearances - if these are tight when the bike gets hot it will either not run or run badly. If its an electrical fault, start by disconnecting the kill switch - just in case. Then if you have a mate with the same bike perhaps try swapping the coil & CDI one at a time, this to me is easiest way of identifying electrical problem. I would check the valve clearances before you go any further. Gordon

Interesting debate Mig tig gas or arc. Lot of expert opinions The best motorcycle welder there is is a gentleman called Ken Sprayson, every year he is at the Manx Grand Prix and TT races set up in the paddock in a unit sponsored by Air Products welding anything and everything the racers (from back of van club racers to full works riders) require from alloy and magalloy crank cases through to steel frames including extending alloy tanks and similar. Every time I have seen him working there is a cue at his door carrying everything to do with bikes for his attention . I have never seen him use anything else but gas. If its good enough for him its good enough for anyone! Ken Sprayson used to be employed by Reynolds making racing frames.

Well done to the organisers/section setters in IDMCC - good safe trial. Nice to see a set of true P65 sections to encourage some of the P65/TS riders in the club to take out their bikes at a different venue. Having 2 sets of sections allowed sections to be solely aimed at that type of bike & rider rather than having sections set too stiff for all but the best P65/TS riders to allow modern bike riders a challenge in the same section. Pity my score was so bad - but I have an excuse or several - then again lack of skill comes to mind!

Well New steel plates did not cure the problem - still slip under power in high gears. I Emailed EBC's help desk about this and they have looked into it - they purchased a Honda spring and it turns out that the spring has been wrongly interchanged about 10 years ago - hence the spring listed in their catalogue is a softer spring than it should be. The correct EBC part no is CSK105 (dont know what it means either) Before receiving this reply from them I had already ordered a set of Honda original fitment springs from my friendly local dealer . EBC have offered to replace springs FOC - when I find last one of set i will contact them & say I have ordered Honda springs while waiting for a reply. Still having a dodgy clutch gives me an excuse for dire trial scores so perhaps I will keep low strength springs! SuperHondaman - this will explain your problem as well! Gordon

Have a read of the MOT regs - different things apply to different ages of bike. Once you have a reasonable understanding of what is required visit your friendly local MOT station and ask your friendly local MOT tester for advice. Follow his advise to the letter and you should be able to get a hastle free MOT . As far as I remember Pre 73 = Bulb Horn Post 73 = Electric Horn No lights required for daytime MOT No lights = no brakelight If you have lights you need a brakelight No reflector required for daytime MOT Numberplate should be legal - check with friendly MOT man first. I think up to 73 numberplate rules are different. You need a chainguard & efficient silencer As commented on before a speedo is not covered in the MOT - since the bike would have to be ridden to check it works is the explanation I was once given.