graeme17

Anyone know when they are to be launched or ballpark prices

Thanks very much idmcc-sec, I'll check out the links on Monday

Can anybody point me in the direction of a shop that sells punches which punch holes smaller than 6mm. The 6mm punches leave holes which are too big for our score cards. Don't mind if the punches are stars, hearts, apples etc. Thanks in advance

Great reply mate, I think you've covered everything!!

Spot on mate, the MX boots are alot more rigid, trials boots offer alot more feel and therefore control plus extra grip when walking the sections.

I almost agree, I have the same bike and suffered the problem as described on the original post. I tried all the things described above and although it did make a difference, it didn't sort the underlying problem. The problem turned out to be a partial blockage of the pilot jet which required the jet to be removed and the foreign material pushed out with a pin. I had previously blown through all the jets with the airline and all seemed well but just goes to show its worth inspecting closely. After the blockage was removed the bike ran better than it had for years!!!

Somebody looks happy!! Could be the first action shot of a future champion.

Hi, I'm currently using ATF and when changed the clutch works perfect even when cold, after a few hours use it will start to play up when cold again and after a few more hours the problem can occur even when hot. It is particularly annoying when the problem causes the bike to stall in a section and effects confidence on steps when you are unsure if pulling the clutch will stop drive. I shall give oil you recommend a try but all my mates REV3's work fine for ages on ATF, perhaps my clutch was machined on a Friday afternoon or Monday morning!!

The clutch basket, hub and plates are perfect and have no wear, and the clutch doesn't slip. My feeling is that the basket isn't being actuated sufficiently to break the suction unless the oil is less than a couple of hours old. Presumebly there is an actuating rod that acts on the basket I wonder if there is any mechanical adjustment between the the hydraulic cylinder an this actuating rod that would increase the travel. Has anyone taken the clutch cylinder off a REV3, whats behind it rlracer I'll not be at the 2 day at the weekend, but would be interested in your fix

I have the same problem on my Beta Rev3, I have tried a few things and have so far been unable to resolve the problem. If i remove the clutch plates i have to peel them apart due to "hydraulic suction" and i believe this is why the clutch is not disengaging properly. When i clean the plates with solvent and put back together with new ATF the clutch operates perfectly for a few hours before playing up again. I have also roughened up the metal clutch plates with emery paper and this worked for a longer period before again playing up. I have bled the hydraulic clutch and this seems to be ok. My mates all use ATF and have no problems. The problem occurrs regardless of the engine being hot or cold. Does anyone know if there is any mechanical adjustment in the clutch, I suspect that the clutch is now spreading apart enough or indeed could be wrong again.

Check the routing and condition of your throttle cable for the phantom revs problem, it could also be the carb rubber manifold has a split and is drawing air or the crank seals , if this is the case putting on the choke should see the revs drop to confirm the diagnosis. I suspect your two problems are not related and need to be sorted independantly PS air screw effects mixture on idle, needle position on part throttle and main jet everywhere else......I think

My bikes doing the same thing but I took out the air filter and it revs more cleanly with more power. I think my main jet is too big but haven't had a chance to change it to find out. I would be interested to hear if this is the correct diagnosis. Cheers PS The air filter is clean

I wouldn't pay too much attention to the weather forecast, I think for anywhere north of Carlisle they just make it up. Best to get a carry out, that way you can watch the trial, have a drink and if its rains you can wear the plastic bag as a hat

Agree, mines a middle size one (250) and I was quite worried by the knocking, but half a turn on the mixture screw sorted it right out!!

Did you check the clutch basket for sign of wear on the edges where the clutch and friction plates mate with it, worth checking the plates in this area too. Are the clutch plates warped, sometimes when the clutch has been slipping alot they warp out of shape and the clutch won't release properly as a consequence. You may already have checked this but if not might be worth having a look.

Cheers John, I couldn't access the site earlier, computer gremlins I think

Does anybody know if the regs for the Killin 2 day trial have been released yet. Don't want to miss out, it was great last year.

If its Pathhead your doing it should make the lap on one tank as long as you don't wring its neck all the way, there was a guy did it on a 300 Gas Gas a couple of years ago and got round. I've seen people take some spare fuel in metal camping stove bottles on fun runs but as you say not sure on the legality of this in competition. Can you not borrow your mates 950 instead!!! Are going to do the Saturday or Sunday

We make our own using "plain" rather than high tensile fencing wire. A jig is made by welding a section of scaffolding tube about 6 inches long onto a piece of angle iron. The angle iron can then be clamped into a vice to hold the jig firm. A slot should then be cut into the top of the tube to slide the wire through to hold it while it is formed around the tube (2 or 3 turns works well). The wires can be made any length for different ground types!

In this situation would 4 strokes or just 2 strokes be better

Welcome to a fine sport, The advice you received with regard to engine size is spot on. I came from a similar background in terms of riding experience etc and bought a GG 320. it was great for mucking about on but was just too much in the burns and tight sections. When I changed to a smaller capacity bike my scores immediately improved by a huge margin. Best of luck

Did you try removing the rod and pedal.. When the pedal is attached there is a limitation on the travel of the master cylinder inner plunger. Depending on how much air is in the system the volume of the master cylinder side of the rear brake with the restricted travel mentioned previously is not sufficient to prime the caliper. However one of the seals on the master cylinder may now be damaged with all the pumping!! It could be worth removing the master cylinder inner plunger to check all is well to prevent further vexation. Best of luck

Double entendre.........moi? pas du tout!!!

I have had a similar problem previously on my Beta. It turned out there was insufficient travel on the master cylinder/brake pedal side of the system. To overcome this I removed the rear master cylinder from the frame and brake pedal and used a suitable implement to operate the master cylinder to achieve full strokes of the inner plunger whilst a friend operated the bleed nipple on the caliper. Bled no problem after that hope this helps