tombo46

How often do you/should you clean your carb/airbox out? also, what effects with a dirty carb/air filter have on an engine? All the best Tom

Ive done about 12 hours riding on my new bike and ive opened up the airbox and its a little bit dirty (not alot) and there is a little bit of water welling up in the bottom of the airbox, ive got a sponge on order to collect said water to stop is sloshing around the airbox. while the airbox is off ive also taken the carb off to give it a clean, no visible dirt anywhere in any of the jets or the float bowl, does this mean it was unnessisary to clean the carb out? for the last couple of hours of my last ride the bike started making a knocking noise on the top end, only very slight but it was there, similar to the noise you get when you start to run out of fuel if you know what I mean, the noise was more pronounced as the engine ran down from high to low revs. could this have something to do with the air filter being a little bit dirty and thus stopping the mixture from being right? My Beta used to do this and it was highly irritating!! All the best Tom

they were done at the dealer I bought it from, took them forever and they messed me about big style and didnt even end up the colour i wanted, id find someone who can prepare your rims and just find a local anodising firm. will be quicker and cheaper I think. All the best Tom

one for me too please, not for my boots, Put a cable tie round the bottom and you got yourself a new lid! Tom

Am I the only one who just swats them in the garage as they are and just swat them back on my feet when I next go riding? Tom

I had a ride on the bike quickly in the carpark before it went off to gas gas UK and it felt very snatchy, put a flywheel weight on it and a 10T front sprocket and its softened it out alot, feels fantastic now and its still got the wicked top end. Tom

you're welcome =] the front pipe is beautiful though, one of my favorite bits, next to the wheels hehe. Tom

It was from www.trialendurodirect.com advertised on the trialscentral homepage. cracking site with fast delivery. Jude and Kev were very helpful.

It was very tempting! possible too, it doesnt leak any petrol so no smell! unlike the beta.....Took it out again today and managed to bin it a few times, first time was caught on film! took the mudguard off hehe. Tom

aye im very pleased with it, Big thanks to Kev at Gas Gas UK for fitting all the hoses and the front pipe and for his sound advice. Tom

As requested, heres some Pictures of my 08 Pro 300... http://www.flickr.com/photos/24122878@N02/?saved=1 Full list of bits are..... Jitsie Lever adjusters Jitsie master clyinder covers Renthal Fat bars Renthal Fat bar clamps Renthal Fat bar pad Red Clutch/Brake Hoses + Throttle Cable Fork Protectors Red Radiator Hoses S3 Titanium Front Pipe S3 Aluminium Pegs Flywheel Weight (Highly reccomended) Jitsie (I Think) engine protector Red Rear Brake Hose (sits ontop instead of inside swingarm) Swingarm Protectors Red Renthal Rear Sprocket 10T Front Sprocket (Highly reccomended) Larger Rubber flap for Air Box All seems very silly when you put it in a list like that!! oh well, my first new bike so thought id go to town, shame to throw it at rocks really! hasnt stopped me though.... Thanks to everyone for answering all my questions =] its much appreciated, if anyone wants to know anything about the bike im happy to help if I can. All the best Tom

I had mine done on my new gasser, pictures will be up in the gasgas section soon enough. Im not sure of the techniques the 2 methods involve but anodising is like colouring the metal, the texture etc will feel the same as it did before whereas powder coating is more like a coloured plastic coating and I would imagine it is more durable. I much prefer anodising, some colours of powder coating can look tacky I think but each to their own. Im not sure where you would get it done but im sure someone else will be along soon enough to tell you! All the best Tom

I cant tell you what a 2008 300 is like compared to a 2006 one but I can compare it to an 06 Beta. In short, Its better in every way. It doesnt p*** fuel, its very easy to work on. they just need a bit of attention out the box which ive done, I opened the airbox after a full days riding and no water or crap in there whatsoever. The bike is very very light, feels alot lighter than the beta which makes hopping it around effortless. as for the power, I fitted a flywheel weight to it and put a 10T front sprocket on (which came with the bike), as reccomended by factory Kev. Turned out the reccomendation was spot on, power wise feels very controllable at the bottom end with a nice smooth clutch. The gearbox isnt very smooth (especially the change into 5th) but it wasnt all that smooth on the Beta either. Loads of people seem to be scared of the 300, but with the flywheel weight on and the 10T front sprocket it effectivly gives you another gear, I never used to use 1st on the beta but the gasser seems to be geared alot better so first becomes usable again. It also has plenty of top end. we were messing around jumping off stuff going flat out in 3rd gear and it doesnt half get there quick. any questions feel free to give me a shout, will post pictures up when I can be bothered. Also, the bike is so good, in the 6 1/2 hours I was riding it, I didnt drop it once! its still completely immaculate despite trying my hardest to hurt myself. All the best TOm

Cheers Bigfoot, Ill do that! Ive seen alot of airboxes sealed at the side, is this nessisary? if so, whats the best thing to use? Tom

I dont want to name and shame because apparently its unusual behavoir for that dealer, I dont want to go slagging his business off if neglecting my bike was just a one-off. On a brighter note, Ive replaced the old rubber flap with the new "extended" one that goes around the shock etc and ive removed all the bolts for the air box seperated it, run sealant around where the 2 parts meet and sealed every seal except for the Hole where the air comes into the box. The lengh of rubber thats on the back of the air box (that generally gets covered in crap from the rear wheel) isnt glued on very well, should I re-glue it and seal it with silicone like the rest of the air-box? Thanks for the help =] Tom

Im not going to take it back to him because i dont want him to have anything more to do with the bike, im fed up with waiting, the bike was recently with kev to have some bits fitted and he has told me how to seal it, just not sure on the exact details hehe. Tom

Can anyone tell me how to remove the airbox on an 08 Pro? The dealer I bought from didnt Seal it in the PDI so ive got to do it. Also I bought a rubber flap to stop water getting in, its meant to fit around the shock but from what I can tell theres already a rubber flap there, its dimpled rubber rather than the smooth one i bought, does this mean I have to replace the old flap with the new one? Any help/tips much appreciated! Tom

Ello, Just got the bike back today! wheels are Red (darker than I expected but still very lush) and the dealer told me they couldnt anodise the bash plate, im not sure how true this is because i recently learned that they only got my bike in the showroom a day before I picked it up (I thought it had been in for weeks). Ive had a few other bits fitted to it too, Its got a Flywheel weight and a 10T front sprocket so make the gearing a bit longer and get some use out of 1st gear. Ill be spending a day riding it on sunday so will let you know how it feels. also going to take plenty of pics before I Destroy it. All the best Tom

Mine is Orange, I like Orange....

I always thought Albert Cabastany was pronounced Alber Cabestan? am I wrong? Not watched much on telly but got a couple of DVD's, hate how the commentator say's some of the bikes names, like for beta he say's betta and for cota he say's cotta. Tom

where do you think the extra hose should fit? straight onto the caliper or elsewhere? To try it im just going to use a normal master cylinder, but may change for a proper thumb brake one as it will be more compact. Tom

Ive seen that before, I dont think that would have the same effect, 2 flaw's i can see in it are that you can only bring your clutch in so far before your hitting your rear brake, which wouldnt be good for frantic clutch grabbing. also, I like my clutch to bite just away from my fingers and I think it would have to bit alot further out if it still has to allow travel for a rear brake to be applied. Ill have my new bike on tuesday so i may experiment a little bit with my old beta, only problem is that i hear the rear on a beta can be a bugger to bleed (never tried it). All the best Tom

Ok, Ive avoided asking this question for fear of sounding like a burk. but has anyone tried making a thumb brake for the rear wheel on a trials bike? It seems like a very logical thing to do for a few reasons. It could be an alternative way of holding the rear tyre when balancing instead of slipping the clutch, it can sometimes be hard when you have to take your right leg off the peg (and rear brake) for balance and find your front wheel starts to slip down the rock. Wheelies! For balance and various other flashy stunty type things you sometimes need to take your foot off the peg! it would be very reasurring and very confidence boosting to know that you have another way to bring your bike back down to earth. Saving you and your bike when you get a little throttle happy but need to maintain your balance. sometimes on nice big rocks where theres a smooth run up the front wheel can get pretty high, so you need to bring it back down once your over the obsticle, and sometimes kick a leg out to save a dab or to save binning the bike upon exiting the rock. personally I sometimes find it uncomfortable aproaching a rock for a jap-zap or something similar when I have my rear brake covered, it doesnt seem natural. Im no expert but I would think it could be done pretty easily? you could take a front brake master clylinder and put it next to the clutch, with the lever running on the oposite side to the bar. The only thing that Im not sure about is if there would be a loss in pressure, another brake line would have to be run from the master clyinder to the rear caliper. It wouldnt be much good if it impared the use of your normal foot operated brake. also, where would the line join? directly onto the caliper ontop of the other hose using a double connection of some sort? I know alot of people will be thinking "whats the point? everyone does fine as the bikes are now" but im curious to see if it would work. if anyone has any suggestions or obvious faults please let me know!! All the best Tom

Its not all fun and games for Raga, he's having to pull an office job aswell thanks to that pesky Toni Bou Tom

thanks alot =] Tom