bambam_n_chunx

The timing is now sorted through a days trial and error, not sure if its spot on but its running and sounds some where near. I`ll be fitting a pvl or similar set up once ive had the work on the chassis done. Ive been advised to sort swingarm and have wheels respoked before using it and I might see if I can have the forks looked at as they seem a bit dead.

I know but the thing is ive just found this trials cub after its been stood for 20 yrs. I wanted to make sure all was well with the motor before I start to give it a bit of a makeover to use. What you guys think?

Anyone help setting up the points and atu on my side points cub. I had to split the motor to replace the kick start pawl, thats done but the atu and points arent right as ive a spark but dont know how to set it right. The haynes book seems to be written in imperial too LOL

Advance the timing a bit

I`m going to replace the seals in my section forks but cant find any info on oil type or quantity. Can anyone help????

Your right in thinking its one of the last of the bults going off the numbers, however 198 means you have a 250cc model, the 340 would start 199

Mine works fine on atf

I`ve rebuilt a 200 pro with forward kickstart, the engines had a complete rebuild with new mains seals and ring. The carb that came with it was wrong so i`ve sourced a 25 mil dellorto and set it up as the info on tc would suggest is right. its a pig to start and wont tickover which suggests its running weak. The spark is perfect and timing is spot on, and once started it runs well on high revs just when the throttle is closed it bogs down. Obviously the carb is spotlessly clean so not a blocked airway or jet. Any ideas? It has a 90 main,48 pilot and 60 starter jet. D33 needle on 2nd groove and 40 slide. I need this sorted as I need to sell it to make room for another project.

Sold as seen?

Poor lad could only afford to put rim decals on one wheel so he must need the cash for xmas

Just a little gutted but only by the sellers attitude, it was advertised in the local paper as good condition, when I got there and he told me it was a non runner I was just a teeny bit annoyed . i know the engines can be expensive to repair so I wasn`t prepared to take a chance at £800. I know someone who needed to replace a bigend in one and had to buy a full crank. I`m pleased it turned out ok for tony and I picked up a 2011 gasser 2 days later so I`m glad in a way.

Did you get the bike running easily? I went to see it but he wouldn`t budge on the price and I`m too mean to pay the asking price for a non runner.

Couple of spanners and allen keys weigh a lot less to carry than a compressor and tyre mousse. Your not still on innertubes by any chance?

I think we all turn tyres unless you get them for free but what beats me is why none of the bike designers have used hubs that can have the sprocket and disc swapped round so the wheel can be used in both directions. Makes perfect sense to me. No doubt i`m going to be told that you already can on some bikes.

If it helps, I had a very tidy road reg 78 125 with a suzuki 175 conversion fitted and struggled to sell it a couple of years ago. I wouldn`t recommend spending a lot on it.

Frame number 2 by any chance?

£400 for a runner. Cheap as chips Be a crime not to buy it.

Not really an expert on the rear kick 200 models, my mate knows more but I think hes away with work. I know the 156cc should have its model number fm350 on the exhaust and airbox. The 125cc bikes are fm250. 79 models should have conical hubs and 35mm fork stanchions. Earlier models have 32mm and standard hubs. The frame number should be on frame underneath the headstock on the gusset plate. The engine number should be on top of the crankcase behind the kickstart. Wether they match after 30 years is a bonus. Parts are not a problem as Bill Pye and Bob Wright have a massive amount of spares. Hope this helps.

All sorted, thanks to in-motion who supplied new carb jets and gasket set. Bike starts 1st time everytime.

The spring washer goes on top of the tap part underneath the fixing plate, its what gives it pressure to seal. ;-) Looks to be the same as early yamaha ty seals. A good tip if your not used to working on bikes is to take photos of parts as they come off.

Finally managed to upload some pics of the bike, It came with the tax disc last used in 82 and original receipts. The airbox is in the garage, and I`ve put a pic of the carb on to show the choke system. The part in the bowl was blocked solid but i`m sure its ok now.

Right sorry for the long time in replying the misses made me go on hol lol. The bike still wont start despite the fact i`ve changed the crank seals, compression is sound and it does suck your palm off. Timing is set at between 3.5 and 4.0 mil btdc as this is the figure quoted in the book for my eng number. points gap is 0.35 mil also quoted in the book and there is no rust in the electrics at all. The carb fitted is an amal 627/450 and definitely has a choke system not a tickler. I suspect the carb more than anything else and would be grateful if anyone could help with the jet sizes. I`m fairly sure i`ve got it clean but it still wont fire although it does seem to be trying at last. I`ve also checked the points and condensor. I`ll go and get some new plugs tomorrow and if that doesnt work i`ll park it back up until I can find another carb to try.

Thanks for the replies. I`ll change the old crank seals as it makes sense even though it could suck a golfball up a garden hose, the spark is a fat blue one so why would the condensor be at fault? It`ll have to wait for a while before trying it tho as i`m waiting for a new kickstart return spring, the old one gave up after being stressed for hours by some idiot not knowing when to say enoughs enough. I`ve heard that you can boil aluminium parts in household detergents to thoroughly clean them, has anybody tried this and what did you use. I`m a bit worried that bleach might ruin the old amal, even though i`d remove its internals 1st as I`m not confident all the old petrol resin has been removed from the carb passage ways.