bambam_n_chunx

Quite happy with the way this is going so thought i`d put a couple of pics up to see what you guys think. I`ve got a new in-motion seat cover to fit and give the bike a good check over but its running well enough since the mikuni carb conversion has been fitted. Hasn`t been a cheap build but okay considering the state it was in when I got it. Another one saved from the scrap man.

Anyone know if the 270 runs the same jets as the 250? I`ve just replaced my barrel with a 270 kit and thought i`d check before putting it all back together. Its fitted with the flatslide keihin if it helps. As far as I can tell it uses the same plug and timing settings. Andy

You might even get it a bit cheaper if you turn up with cash

When it cuts out have you checked for a spark, I had a montesa that used to cut out and refused to start for 15 mins. Then it would run for 20 mins and do it again. Turned out to be the stator plate was failing when hot. Obviously if it had no spark and you kick it over it will draw petrol through and look like its flooding.

Easiest way is to undo the front brake master cylinder, loosen the fork yokes and slide the front end out complete. Take out the rear wheel and rest it on the sump. Use the wheels to stop it falling over. Done it like this loads of times with no problem.

I`ve seen photos of John Reynolds riding the bult and it was fitted with the original airbox and side panels. Could it be that the airbox has been changed in the years after he used it as the older style would be a lot easier to get hold of.

Wonder what 501cc feels like on full throttle!

Excellent, thanks for taking the time I doubt this one will turn out as well as yours though.

Thanks Woody It is the bike from up our way, Apparently he wanted it moving quickly as the tealeaves had found it. The disc wheel needs to go but i`m struggling to find a wheel. Its the second bultaco i`ve had without a back wheel since I had one stolen a few years ago, they must be thin on the ground. Lorenzo I had a reg may bult 198b a few years ago and the swingarm mount hole had been cut out and raised about an inch so it was in line with the sprocket, you had to look closely but could make out the weld. The 240 does go well I just find it hard to find grip when its revving and if I change the gearing it wont pull second, bit of a sickener really as i`ve spent a fortune on it with a 245 reed valve motor etc. I`ve just stripped a 303 down so will give that motor a try and see if its any better.

Finally managed to get hold of one at last its in bits (engines ok) but the frames had all the braze on fittings ground off it. If anyone would like to measure me the length of the chain tensioner bracket from hole to swingarm and also the distance up from the swingarm pivot to the rear cable stop I would be pretty gratefull. I`ve already fitted a montesa type head steady as I`ve seen a few with this mod and the ht coil had been moved further back down the frame, but I cant think why. Its also had some work done to the rear shock mounts as they`ve been rewelded on above the rear spindle to make the shocks lay over. I was going to put them back to standard but think i`ll give it a try as is. Anyways when its finished should be a good replacement for my fantic which doesnt have the grunt to pull the skin off a rice pudding.

Cheers for that just spat coffee all over when the penny dropped

I`d have the extra hole in the rim welded up and go tubeless again. Would make changing tyres easier and also who would want to buy it off you when you decide to sell it? Good luck

Thanks for the quick replies, Woody, I`ll check the tap area for any damage. That seems to be the area where its leaking from. All the info i`ve found seems to put dave clinkard on a 320. Its an A reg mk3 with white frame and tank transfers. Chewy, thanks and i`ve looked at the exhaust, the front pipe looks like its been cut and had a longer bend put in but I cant tell you if thats original or not. I believe steve saunders rode the bigger 320.

Can anyone recommend a good way of sealing a fibreglass tank. Most people i`ve spoken to say these tanks leaked from new and I should try putting some resin in it and rolling it round until it goes off but I`m not convinced this works. Also I`m still trying to trace the bike and would like to know who rode 250 hiro`s in the 84 ssdt as from what little info is available it looks like the top riders were all on 320`s. All i`ve found out up to now is it was 1st registered in the bristol area and its number 71 of 75. Cheers and all the best for 2012

Try removing the flywheel weight. Should rev better but may be harder to find grip. I use 10x39 sprockets and find it ok.

Hi all, i`m trying to trace the history of my 83/84 armstrong hiro. Its head and barrel have been drilled both front and back?? and it has been fitted with number holders on the silencer and left seat rail. Its reg is A504 UAE if anyone recognises it or can help. Its a fit old bike with loads of grunt and once I get the leaking tank sealed i`ll be using it instead of my fantic so it would be good to know its history.

Has anyone any experience in using a bike delivery service or can recommend one. Its a one off for me and I dont want to choose the wrong ones.

If its not broke I would leave it alone. You say its no good even if you adjust the lever. Its a hydraulic system so if you are screwing the plunger in you are making it worse. the screw needs to come out as far as it can with just a little play. That way the piston in the master cylinder gets the full travel and pushes as much fluid through as possible. Also a little water on the pads will help, dont ask me why as I dont know it just works. Best way to make sur there is no air in is to take the cap of the master cylinder, push the hose down so its below the bars and just gently pull the lever in and out a lot keepiing it pressed in for a while every now and then. Good luck!!

If the bike has been parked up for any length of time the plates in the clutch have a habit of sticking together. Sounds to me like this has happened and I`m guessing you have`nt had the cover off and the clutch apart to clean it. I think if you do, it will sort this for you. Good luck

Thanks for the help. Lee, I replaced the slide when I built it up but I suppose the carb could be worn, i`ll try another carb, its possible I might be able to find another one or two. If it was running weak could it have the same effect?

Does anybody know what causes a bike to run on after the throttle is closed off. I noticed my fantic does it quite a bit while queueing although it does run spot on once its moving. I`ve a 240 and have recently fitted it with a reed valve motor from a 245, it has been fitted with new mains and oilseals and the piston is okay. I used the 245 carb and electrics which I believe to be set up correctly. The engine is on the bench now as I needed to do some work on the bike so I would like to put it right before it goes back in. Could it need new reeds in or does that not cause it.

Thats what I put in mine, You can also make a triangle shaped plate that bolts onto the 241 fork disc mounts and the brakeplate. Saves you splitting the forks. Also I used the 241 top fork clamp to move the bars forward. It just needs a bit of a shim making out of thin plate for the clamp.

I think its the black and white cable from the switch, just unplug the connector and it should stop it from earthing out. Its the first place I would try before the coils or cdi.

Have you tried disconnecting the kill switch, its possibly full of water if it hasnt been dried out. That could stop it from sparking.