shercoman2k8

Ahh right... That solves a fair few of my problems then! Thought it was perhaps the float level set wrong, not allowing the fuel to be shut off... but if its normal then no bother! Cheers!

Hmm... Wouldn't 100% mean that it's not the shaft. Oil spreads like a bad rumour, what covers your bike may indeed only be about 50mls. It may be thrown off the shaft quicker than the oil is coming out of the engine. First place I would check is the shaft seal. The o-ring. Simple job, whip off the small clutch cover, not the large side casing (should only be 4 or 5 allen bolts holding it on.) Stuck in the groove on here will be the o-ring, check it for damage. If it's alright, shove it back on. The biggest part of solving problems and expanding your knowledge is not only repairing and understanding the problem, but diagnosing too. You have an oil leak, you understand that it's oil leaking from somewhere. If you had a very limited budget, and each part took a few days to change, you'd want to diagnose and eliminate what it's not, before wasting your time, and money. So... Oil leak, final drive side of engine. This narrows it down too (depending on model/side of clutch cover) Sprocket Shaft Seal, Clutch cover, Clutch slave cylinder, Oil filler plug, crank-case breather. Clean the engine up with wd40 so the side is spotless. Either get some chalk dust, or easier... Talkum powder. Sprinkle some over the side of your engine... Top up your oil and run the engine. Look out for your first damp/dark patch. Where is it? If this dark patch is under or around the Sprocket shaft... it's that seal thats gone. Seal pick and

So... Seems like this thing doesn't like the oil I use! Was out training with a few locals down in Kinlochleven on Saturday and took a nasty bail on a splatter, bike fell onto its side and has put a nice hole right through the clutch cover. New one on its way! Whilst im here however, I have another question to ask... How do I set the float level on the Keihin? I appear to constantly be p***ing fuel out of the overflow! Put a pipe from the overflow to alongside the bowl, and it's about 5mm above where i'd expect it to cut off. Cheers guys!

I beleive Dave Cooper racks and trailers are the best available. Will hold a mont on no bother! http://www.davecooper.co.uk/ Cheap too!

It would be plenty enough to cover the left side of the bike if its the shaft seal. As of course it will be flung off the sprocket!

I have ummm... Squint windows! No excuses, im a lazy bum who doesnt bother sorting his blinds

Here she is! did the job well. Excuse the crap webcam pictures. Edit: Out of shape as it has to be bent to apply/remove to/from the gear.

Well, it was an old pedal cage from a push trials bike. Bent over so the ends can grip under the edge of the gear and at the right distance apart for the gear. I put a nut either side of a hole in the cage and threaded a bolt through it and let it push against the shaft... Wound the bolt round with a socket and it was off in seconds. Quite effective. Will get pictures later!

Yes, of course... completely forgot. 1. Symptoms - The bike was constantly going from rich to lean, bogging out whilst riding however much you leaned it off, bogged on the throttle opening despite occasionaly having it so lean it would knock. Setting it correctly was almost impossible. Also, once the throttle was blipped it was taking a long while to return to a normal idle speed, normally about 2 seconds, it was taking upwards of 8. Gearbox oil leaking from the crank case breather. When tested, by putting the overflow hose into a bucket of water, I found that bubbles were produced, meaning it was under pressure. 2. Cause - Turned out to be the crank seals that needed replacing. The seals that were in the bike were the black Nitrile ones, with the help from this forum we established that the Nitrile seals cant handle alcohol laced fuel. Replaced with the brown, Viton seals. 3. The black nitrile seals go hard with our fuels due to the alcohol content. All Sherco's seem to be using different seals. The crank case on the 250 and 125 is very different. The jitsie filters decompose and block carbs. As per your problem I beleive. Oh, and the best way to get those gears off, a home made puller. Will explain this later!

Got the keihin on my paxau... Very nice! Got rid of the bottom end flatspot and also revs to the moon. Got the jetting right first time! Only thing thats wrong with it is the float height needs setting so it p****s fuel occasionaly, needs sorting but i'll get round to it eventually! Going to invest in some v-force reads soon and see what difference they make.

Bikes sorted! Thanks for all the help guys!

^

5mm Allen Key Flywheel Holder 19mm Socket Flywheel Puller 6mm or 5.5mm Allen Key

Correct me if I'm wrong anyone, but basically as follows; Programable - Got a small slot for a connector to the pc, should come with usb cable for programming. Dual map - Will have a switch on it to flick between the two maps, may feel a power difference Single map - No switch, no slot.

Does this mean if interested, I would have to learn to ride backwards?

I know its not good practice, but with the rear sprocket, it's sometimes best to use an open ended spanner, or mole gips set real tightly. Anyways, just get some silicone sealant, and run a bead along either edge of the rim band, job done.

Read through, problem solved. Thanks anyway. Was indeed the seals, they had the same part number as posted on the last page or two and also were hard as rock. Put one in the vice, tightened her up and instead of flexing, it shattered. Brilliant seal that would of been

Can I ask, what size are the stock tyres? I know of a place with good tyres, but not sure if they'll fit. I'll tell more when I know the size

Maybe I didn't make it clear, I have a keihin on the bike, brand new... The other carb I was messing around with, the one with all the parts missing was a spare i had kicking around which came off a mates gas gas. To fit this carb properly, I either need the keihin manifold for the 125, which is 15 mm further spaced from the engine, or get the spacer block. I feel this though may take away some of the snappyness of the carb, and maybe even be a sacrifice of power. Strangely, up 'till a few weeks ago, I had the carb in and fitting perfectly, with no parts making contact, Just now though, I cant think for the life of me how that was.

In fact, the keihin fits into the dellorto manifold rather well, yes its a small stretch but the main difference in manifolds are on the keihin, it sticks out further from the engine, as trying to fit the keihin onto a completely standard setup, the bowl rubs on the crankcase. On the 125 that is, on the 250/290 the intake port is raised slightly higher and protrudes further, meaning this isnt an issue on the bigger bikes. May try to design something in school that will allow the carb to sit at a different angle, as I will have access to a cnc machine, many different materials and a lathe. Who knows what may happen?

Source: http://www.sickipedia.org/index.php?title=Main_Page "Don't f**k with Lawyers. My dad is a partner in a smallish law firm. He loves nothing better than annoying people and suppliers who p*** him off, nothing bad, just minor spats. He loves doing really pointless but perfectly legal things. This is my absolute favourite petty revenge story of all time. Dad has queried an outstanding payment to an office supplier, its about

I did, your correct... Sorry about that. Do I know you, your local, real name? It's running great, and a much better feel to it, he seems happy with it too... To answer the question about the ti pipe, none really, weight and sound... Some say its slightly better at dispersing heat, but it's a trials bike! But when you combine it with the smaller S3 insert, the difference made to the bottom end power was actually pretty astonishing... Nice snappy throttle response too, dont think there was any noticeable sacrifice to the higher end power either, so it's all good if you've got the money.

Because he has the money to make the new parts, like keihin intake manifolds, reed blocks, case modifications and other such without having to bodge like us normal guys out here... I dont care whats said, the keihin made a huge improvement over the keihin, as did the ti pipe and v-force reeds I fitted to a mates bike for him. Also for reliability and user friendlyness. Mr Audi, why, if its possible to get an extra 20hp with a remap, ecu upgrade, better turbo, cleaner flowing exhaust or whatever, why didnt he? Why do fork legs come without protectors?

I have an old keihin carb body here, no bowl bolt, and stripped threads... was given to me a few years back. May try a few modifications on it, to try and get it to fit, I reckon, with a little gentle persuasion, the float bowl ground down, using standard hex bolts, not allen for the top, Recessed into the cap and filing off an edge, filing the top carb on the cap, it may just fit, and not rub on anything. Having major fitment problems at the moment. Keihin Manifold block and V-Force reads are on the christmas wishlist. What price am I looking for the V-force Reeds? Neo - Gonna keep the tank i've got, although, I may have a set of those crappy graphics off you for some money! Need a new tank sticker for the 06 due to petrol spillage, I have these on her! Maybe make a little toolbox decoration, all there really worth tbf!

I have an 06 tank, sitting here, out of my 06... and an 08 tank, on the 08. Could swap them round but would need white paint, and graphics. I dont have too much money spare.