shercoman2k8

Cope, Exactly what I thought, Neo sprung to mind straight away... New bike? New bike? You buying me it? On hold for a long while possibly. Anyway, will check to see if its pressurised, there doesnt appear to be much pressure behind it, I removed the hose to see whats going on, and although the rate was excessive, it wasnt that strong of a flow? Done water pump seals a few weeks back, could this have anything to do with it? Geebee, as said above, I only change 430 to compensate for those cling on's around the box

Hey there, Went out, clean bike... come back in, clean bike, one difference... my sump is covered in oil. Definately gearbox oil too. Pinpointed the leak to the crankcase breather, now... This leaks due to pressure, right? This is what had me stumped, if it purges oil and air under pressure, yet doesnt suck anything in... Where did this pressure come from? Only happens when bike is hot mind. Only happens when bike is running. Gearbox oil not white, so no leaks into here, raising quantity. Put 430 mL's of g.box oil in, 10.40 No dirt or grit in the oil. Also cant get the carb to balance properly, it can be running rich, yet still knock... and be running lean, and bog slightly, no happy medium, it seems to change from rich to lean by itself under load. Runs better on choke, then bogs when throttle opened. Been running the Keihin carby, not got a clue on jetting, although its set perfect as it was running fine the week before. Tried the dellorto. Same problem, this leads me to beleive crank seal, or air leak somewhere... Waved a propane torch, unlit around manifold, and behind flywheel, revs didnt pick up atall. Although the carb issue isnt important to me at the moment, I can sort that... the gearbox oil leak has me baffled, is this crank seal, then the gearbox oil is coming out of this breather before reaching the cylinder or what? Seems odd to me. Has been running smoky recently, thought the mixture was just really rich, wasn't blue, and wasn't obsessive. Compressions fine, sparks fine, fuel's fine. May lead to the poor running if these were dodgy, but once again, not the leak. It isnt a dribble either, in a minute or so I lost maybe 50-75 ml? Work that out to be empty in about 6 or 7 minutes? Anybody split the cases and got a pic, I have, just cant remember whats on the inside of that breather, crank area or gearbox? Or is it like the water pump weep? Will let out whatevers leaking? All advice welcome, Jamie

Neither, it softens the power to make the bike easier to handle...

Hey there, Mechanical section was removed back in april or may, maybe earlier cant remember. The pit bike, im presuming your on about ignition advance. The advance is controlled from the CDI unit, or as you put it... Black box. The standard one you can't fiddle with, no advance/retard. If you want a programmable ignition you'll have to invest in an aftermarket racing CDI. The ignition is controlled here as the bike uses an inner rotor iginiton, or IRK. So you may notice the lack of a stator on the bike. From what i've heard, on a standard bike you wont notice the difference, anything with a few mods and it'll give a bit of extra kick and top speed... I beleive this, is what your after. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CDI-REV-BOX-HONDA-XR...907163002r21100 I've also heard about the Kitaco race system, helps take the low end bog from the engine, and eliminate the Rev Limiter! Fits Honda CRF50 XR50 - used without the wiring harness Fits XSport, Thumpstar, Most Copy Chinese engines Fits Zongshen, Lifan, Jialing etc etc etc The best Power CDI Unit available apparantly. Have a look on here to see which one fits on your bike... http://www.monkeybike.co.uk/acatalog/Elect...;_Ignition.html Hope this helps, Jamie

Link dont work unless your the owner, so people, just click on the garage link and search for his username... Anyway, Dunc... mind if I ask how much they set you back? Need to tidy up my 06 for sale!

You have adjusted the mixture screw, right?

My guess is that its high quality, corrosive resistant, aluminium, anodised black. And Neo, it probably does make sense in japanese, think something was lost in translation.

Found this on the mitani site, what y'all think? http://mitani-kobe.shop-pro.jp/?pid=7757205

Express signs north east, graphics come in a large tube, If you take them out and feel them they are very thin compared to originals May be alright if your selling the bike, but if you plan on riding it before the sail, dont bother.

I bought a set for my 06, imagine duct taping copy paper to your bike and getting a four year old to come along with a marker pen to do the imagery. They wear through to the plastic in 15 hours, and aren't even that waterproof! Not to mention the wrong shape.

Why would you do that? For all you know they could look like something you scrape off the bottom of your shoe! Who knows, maybe this fuel pump will be as dodgy as a beta stator? I certainly wouldn't like to be first to find out, thats for sure

Set it up tonight, got it on the bike after an hour or two of trying, fitted the cable, adjusted it and I must say, it's amazing! Very fast throttle response, I noticed a bit more bottom end, aswell as lots of top end, shoved her in fourth on the track, opened her out and it accelerated as if in third. Lots of power! Very fiddly though! Beats the Dellorto hands down!

45-48 pilot, 125 main, 3.5 slide, JJH needle and middle clip position. Air screw wants to be about 3/4 to 1 1/4 turns out depending on conditions.

Describe your problem, could be something else? Not sure of the jetting for the 290 though, but will go through everything else if you describe what your experiencing.

It's pretty normal, it's kinda like a safe guard to stop you knocking it into neutral when in a section, nothing worse! Change the gearbox oil regualarly and you shouldnt have any problems in that department. Just shove it up and down gently between 1st and 2nd and you should slot into neutral. Use your hand, normally easier.

Yeah, love Greece! I find it's very anglosised these days, everywhere you go theres pubs offering footie on tv and the full sunday roast.. Some of the further out islands like Corfu and even some of the uncivilised ones are very nice!

Yes, JJH... the carb has had the bowl ground already, and some foam attached so it should slot in with a bit of effort. I suspect I may go back as with the 28mm you lose some bottom end, made up for by top end power... Just thought i'd experiment as i seem to use my top end a lot more, normally revving a lot. A lot of the 125 riders seem to be using the keihin round here and getting on with it so Im going to give it a shot myself, although I beleive you cant beat a well setup dellorto! Will report back sunday evening/monday morning.

Well, basically found a carb off an old gasser lying in a mates shed, on closer inspection it turned out to be a keihin flatside! Offered to buy it from him and he said a tenner and its yours, its only gonna lie there otherwise. It seems to be in great condition and is now stripped on my bench being cleaned out properly. Just gonna try it out on my 125 before deciding wether to keep it or ebay it. Just a quick query on jetting though, best base point? My sherco's pretty much basic apart from the standard paxau modifications. The bike it came off was a 125 gasser with ti frontpipe, high comp head and piston and a load of other little goodies, im guessing the jettings gonna be way out for a straight over transfer? Its a pwk28 Help please (Copey, I see your online?) Regards, Jamie Edit: Hows 118, 45 sound? Probably go down one on the pilot?

As far as im aware, and the forest floor is after it found itself soaked in coolant, that the sherco stat isn't threaded. Rather just the push in kind with a case around. should be able to find a push in kind down your local motor factors, thats where I got my replacement on my 06.

Corfu, greek islands. Amazing weather, amazing scenery, clean air, clear sea's. Just love the place, went on holiday there 2 years back and would return without a doubt! Looks like there could be some good riding too! First thing you see on approach Clear seas Amazing scenery Also a quick search for corfu brought up this geeza, surely there must be some good spots out there?

Any chance of an explanation of how, and with a picture of the final result?

Well, decided to spend the money on performance stuff instead. Keihin carb and Ti frontpipe coming next week. Gonna put the wallet away and bring out the polish, buff a few things up, buff and polish up the stat casing, water pump casing and clutch casing, sod this anodied business. Quite like the black wheels. I've seen sense Making the most of it, doesn't normally hang around long. Really, should I bother with a high compression head? Heard some good things about them, and the bikes i've tried with them felt pretty responsive and torquey, but does it make that much difference? After seeing the 2010 pre release pic, im gonna keep this another year or so and make the most out of it, maybe before venturing into another brand (like that'll ever happen) Any other nice little touches anyone can think of, in here please Jamie

I see your point, I think it can wait. Maybe school are looking to find items they can teach the y10's to anodise on Will probably stick to the smaller, and cheaper bits and pieces and spend the money on performance parts, anodised rims wont make me ride any better. On the other hand, couldn't exactly make it any worse Well, whenever the bushes are on order, be it next week or next year, would you let me know? Thanks Jamie

No need for the bike in shreds, would be done bit by bit, as and when I can afford it... Living in the middle of nowhere with nothing really to save for, 50% of my money goes on the bike. Saw someone on ebay who will de-build, anodise the rims and rebuild the wheels for