woody

Anyone out there converted a pre65 or twinshock to tubeless rear rim and if so where did you get the rim from and what price are they? I've never been bothered about doing this before as I don't feel there's any performance advantage from one or the other, however, I am sick to the hind teeth of puncturing what are fast becoming next to useless IRC tubed rear tyres. The sidewalls are now ridiculously soft and give even with 5psi. Any lower and I can't ride the bike across a camber as it rolls down it and at 5psi grip is being lost to a degree. The carcass is very thin also and the punctures now seem never ending. The tubed Michelin that's available is like having a slick fitted and Dunlop no longer do one, so the only option now is to go tubeless. Tubeless tyres won't work on all tubed rims so fitting tubeless to tubed rims is not always an option, therefore next time I have a wheel rebuilt I want a tubeless rim on it. Last time I enquired around the dealers few sold them and those that did were quoting stupid prices, a complete rear wheel from Haven at the time was only a few quid more.... Central wheel don't sell tubeless so I'm stumped as to where people are getting them from. Any ideas anyone? edit - I'm asking about new rims, I know second hand tubeless rear wheels come up on ebay now and again but I'd prefer a new rim.

It's possible to have a Godden style sumpguard on the Yam frame if someone has fitted one, so that won't help identify the frame. If it's a Yam frame it will have a toolbox built into the frame at the top of the front downtubes. Godden frame doesn't have one. Also, the frame is cut and reshaped under the tank on the Yam frame to clear the spark plug cap. Godden frame is a different design so doesn't have this. Frame number is on the headstock. Yam frame will begin 493xxxxxxx, Godden will begin 81 or 82 for example, which is the year, next two numbers are the month (I think) and the next three the actual production number. You should be able to tell which it is from that. However, doesn't matter which frame it is, the Yam framed bike is just as good.

For a manual try TY Offroad, he may have one for the early bike. Later bikes had different clutches and bigger carb but they are pretty much all the same apart from that I think TY Offroad

What clutch kit is it? Couple of my mates have TLR250 and are looking to sort out the next to useless Honda clutch. We're looking at Barnett at the moment but they don't do one specifically for the TLR250 but the plates from other models fit. Someone posted the Barnett part number on here a while ago and the plates fitted 200 ATC, XR200 and CG125 amongst others from memory Is the one you're looking at Barnett or some other?

Didn't see anything on the website but I may have missed it - it's well hidden if it's there, I'll see Martyn Willmore on Sunday, he's done it a few times so I'll see who's going.

Have you seen any regs for this trial anywhere? I've been on the website and it doesn't even mention the event. Have you done it before and if so is there accomodation (as in B and on the site or nearby? Never done it but there's just a chance I might b able to this year if entries haven't closed Edit - I mean bed and breakfast not B and a bloody smiley face - conjures up all sorts of connotations...

And he would probably have won it on that TY330 he used to ride too......

It's a dating certificate you need confirming the year of manufacture and it has to be from a source that the DVLA accept as providing accurate information to get an age related plate. Dave Renham at Bultaco UK can date it for you but I don't know if DVLA will accept it for an age related plate. If not the Vintage Motorcycle club based in Burton on Trent Staffs. will date it for you and they are on the DVLA approved list VMCC

Hoping to be there, it's a good venue and if it's a championship round it should be a good challenge

Glad you got it sorted, never mentioned checking carb as thought you'd narrowed it down to electrical. As you've mentioned the Nostalgia trial, any idea if the regs are out yet and where? Not done it before and really keen to have a go this year but seen nothing about it yet. Mikuni is a good a replacement as anything but unless you can get one ready jetted you're going to have to play around with jetting as there is no base setting for any other carb than the Bing, as it was the only one fitted to the later 350s. There are 26/28mm Mikunis on ebay for

I've been told by a couple of people who have used them (not on Bultacos) that they perform well, straight out of the box without any need to re-jet. I'm still sceptical about that but they reckon so. I know someone who has one on a 240 Fantic with pilot re-jetted and it works well as a replacement for his clapped out dellorto. However, I know someone else who also had the same fitted to his 240 Fantic but he said it was no better than the dellorto on his which was in good order. Only thing to do is try one and be prepared to write off

Realistically, it should start ok (but not keep running) whatever plug is in it (within reason obviously) as long as the plug is functioning correctly. It's more likely one of the components in the ignition is failing that is causing the problem - HT coil, points, condensor or source coil. Replace the easy parts first, points and condensor and see if that improves things. If not then try the HT coil and finally the source coil. I normally use a BP7ES in the Ossa. There is, hopefully, going to be a new electronic ignition available for Ossas in the near future. It will be a complete system, new stator plate/source coil, new HT coil, new CDI unit and a new flywheel rotor. It will have a built in advance. The existing Ossa flywheel can't be used as there are 3 types for the Ossa - early motoplat electronic with the timing pin hole at 9 o'clock, later motoplat electronic with timing pin at 4 o'clock and the points type. To develop 3 ignitions to go with each flywheel would have been cost prohibitive so the solution was to develop one ignition with a new flywheel that will fit any electronic or points model, MAR or Gripper. I'm waiting to get one to try and will be very interested to see how it perfoms. The manufacturer already does a replacement HT coil and CDI unit to replace the motoplat HT coil and that performs very well, really letting the bike rev. No specific date yet as to when they will become available, price should be around

Any of the things mentioned above but also your bike may have the clutch bub located on the gear shaft by a woodruff key, some older models do. If that has sheared you'll have no drive to the clutch through the kickstart, it'll just turn the gearshaft and spin it inside the clutch hub. Check the clutch for slipping/woodruff key first, if it is neither of those the problem lies inside and you'll need to split the cases. Bults are the easiest engines to work on but you'd be amazed at how they can be codged up when reassembled by some people. Broken spring won't cause the problem of non-engagement

Scrutineering, rarely done these days for reasons of liability, no longer includes the 'road legal' check, it's riders responsibility, so you still find one or two people hiding from time to time....

Yes you need a licence for ACU events and you need to join a club to get the licence, licence is

Nothing you can do without a frame number. Either look out for frame on ebay or from a breakers which has a number and depending on whether it is in better or worse condition than yours, either swap everything from your bike into it, or grind the number off and re-stamp it onto your frame. If you use the number to stamp your own frame just make sure you never sell the bought frame with the number still on it

Yes Charlie, the registration fee applies to any vehicle, you don't pay road fund licence on anything pre73 If I were you I wouldn't mention anything about the frame being new or replacement, just write the frame number on the form as you would if it was the original BSA frame. All they're interested in at the inspection is that the bike is what you say it is and that the engine/frame numbers on the bike match those written on the form. They're not going to know anything about Faber frames etc. but if you mention it's a replacement frame they don't like frame swaps which could open a whole new can of worms and you could also find that they consider it 'new' which means no age related plate and paying for the road fund licence.

No, I meant bad - poor would have been too kind....

Don't see why not, the 340 is only an overbored 325 and 325 motors can be bored out to take the 340 piston (apart from the early 325 as the liner is too thin) Sure someone said once (probably Dabster) that Vesty used to run a 325 barrel on his 340 as the 325 had a bit sharper power delivery than the 340. Mr Renham will have all the answers on that

Yes it's a good bike, remember riding it many years ago. Miller round was pretty good, little bit more testing than usual and with the good weather, great scenery on the ride round it was very enjoyable. Roll on the Classic Experts at the same venue in November.

Almost impossible to diagnose a rattle really from a description but I had a new liner/piston put in my Yam and it rattled badly right from first start up. The rattle wasn't really noticeable when revving the engine but as the engine slowed down with no load it rattled and it rattled on tickover spped and just gentle blipping. Took the barrel and piston back, new liner fitted with the same piston (which was brand new) with instructions to peform a tighter bore. No rattle this time - yet anyway....

There is no longer a single answer to this question Jaan. It depends what you want, what the rules are where you ride and how much money you want to spend, but Pre65 bikes exist and are being ridden that fit all of the three categories you mention.

BOSTIT - just clicked who you are - must be you Simon, the very man I was referring to above. Was going to get someone to ask you at Stourbridge tomorrow if you could remember their name. If it is you..... PS If it is you and you are going to Shatterford tomorrow, make sure you thrash Dean on his Honda for us.

Yes, parts are available for the Hiro apparently. I was speaking to someone a couple of weeks ago who has found a source in Italy who can provide them. I don't have any details, or contact for him, but he found them by trawling the net. So looking back through ebay Italy, also checking completed items, to see if you can find the pistons and then try back tracking from there is an option. Or just trawl the net as he did and you may find the supplier - they have a lot of stuff I was told, even crankcase halves.