woody

Yes I'd like to have a go at the Novogar round but I'm a bit out of touch on a modern bike now and with a buggered wrist it may be one step too far ability wise. Would love a few more rocky stream sections in next years Forest trial though - can never get enough of them

Yes, must be section 10, last one in the woods before going back up onto the road to Alan/Anne Sagar's section. The left hand drop was steep but ok if you picked the right line down it but it didn't give you the best line (for yellow) into the next part of the section, so the right hand drop was better option. The observer did mention there had been one or two 'incidents' on it.... The Bulto is reliable enough but the carb is finished and it needs a new one. It won't run clean and was getting worse all day. Good job none of the sections needed big revs. The front forks are tragic and I can't get them to work - may have to throw some Ossa internals into them - so had a good old wrestle with it all day up the rocks streams where it had a mind of its own. Biggest mistake I made was to chrome the exhaust having forgotten to repack it first. There's nothing left in it which also affects the way it runs so it's going to have to be opened up - I could weep at that mistake. Really enjoyed the ride around, first two loops are my favourite, the first couple of sections in the very last little group on the third loop are good testers for a twinshock. Can't help looking at some of the big sections on the harder routes though - may have to ride a modern contraption next year and have a go at the inters route.

Another enjoyable event even though the weather did its hardest to spoil things. Many thanks to all the course plotters, organisers, observers, score girls etc. who put in an awful lot of hard work to run this event

Ossa themselves weren't interested in doing the cantilever/monoshock, neither were they interested in the reed valve that Ossa UK and some privateers were using (shame as the reed conversion really improved the 250) All the cantilever bikes were UK built and John Reynolds had good results on them, although he was a top notch rider so it's arguable he would have done just as well on the standard suspension layout. The engine must have worked well even with the compromised exhaust/airbox design, given JR's results, but I guess the cantilever didn't significantly improve the rear end as Yamaha dropped it and Ossa UK didn't continue with it with the later models

Yes, rare indeed if it is one of the original Cheney bikes, which it appears to be, although I don't know much about the cantilever models really. Not '79 though, more likely '76-77ish. They first appeared in '75. The later bikes had the motocross barrel and reed valves. Can't see if it has a reed but it isn't the 4 fin Phantom barrel. Wonder what they'd make of it if someone turned up and entered the twinshock class on one - it should be eligible really as they are the bikes it competed against in its time. However, later twinshocks would thrash it out of sight performance wise. It certainly wouldn't be fair to make it compete in the aircooled mono class as it's no match for those bikes either. Rare bike but a steep price.

But that's my point entirely - they don't look Pre65 in appearance with all those billet parts. I didn't really want to start off the whole eligibility topic again as firstly it's been done to death, secondly it goes nowhere and thirdly I'm sick to the back teeth with the absurdity of it all. However, when I read the statement about machine scrutineering at this year's event I couldn't help myself. I might even go up there next year just to see for myself whether 'offending parts' are used again on certain bikes.... I also can't understand the fuss about non-British carbs - did no-one make carburettors before 1965 apart from Amal and Villiers??? Was it not possible to fit another type of carb before 1965? Surely not? Most Amals have worn out by now. Yes you can buy new Amals but they are not particularly good. I bought one for my C15 and it wouldn't come off idle properly and spit stalled regularly. Turned out the pilot airway was blocked from casting and had to be drilled out. Now it runs ok. Bought an Amal for my Bultaco recently, exactly the same spec as the original (on which the body is worn so runs on and won't shut off through drawing air) Guess what - the bike wouldn't even start when it always starts first kick. Needed a bigger pilot to get it running and it is still too weak even with a #35 to accelerate properly off idle although #35 is way too big and makes it very lumpy off idle. So probably an internal passageway blocked again so more drilling required. It may or may not cure it. Or just fit a Mukini or OKO to make the bike run as the designer intended with no hassle - but not possible on Pre65 - although Yorkshire Classic (or Red Rose ??) allow Dellorto on Cubs only.... Why..?? Totally agree with your last paragraph - i'ts what I've done with my C15 but part of the enjoyment is riding to the best of my ability and be at the sharp end of the results if I can. I can't compete against the others on a standard bike. All I want is a bike on which the suspension works, no trick lightweight frame or billet hubs etc. It has original frame, a steel Bantam rear hub, Grimeca front (looks like British conical if polished) Ossa forks which look like MP which are very common, Cota yokes which are virtually identical to the billet yokes that many are using with no problem. Cost of my front end =

Yes, Enfields had leading axle alloy sliders. I had a pair that I was going to use on my C15 and get better internals fitted etc. as my Ossa forks (although looking like anything else used in Scotland) aren't allowed. However, finding someone to do it for me and then the cost of doing it (horrifying) meant it just wasn't possible. It's not something I can do myself so it didn't happen and I sold them. As Enfield forks are genuine Pre65 and the eligibility stance has for some years been 'period look', regardless of what the eligibility criteria actually says, I really don't see why a pair of Bultaco or Marzocchi forks can't be used - how different are they going to look, when modified slightly, from the Enfield sliders on Murray's bike. I've long since given up trying to make any sense of it, other than it's who you are that determines what you can get away with. This year they have apparently inspected every bike and compared the components fitted against the components that the competitor had to declare are fitted to the bike when entering. Competitors have been advised of minor indescretions in order that they can be corrected for next year. So, for example, when a bike was being examined and the competitor has stated the following on the form:- Fork yokes - Pre65 BSA, Triumph or whatever Hubs - Pre65 BSA Triumph or whatever and the scrutineer looks at the bike and sees nice shiny Alan Whitton billet machined hubs, brakeplates, yokes, I wonder what happened, as the form states they must be Pre65 design only. I guess next year, all those bikes with those billet components fitted will have had them removed and replaced with original steel assemblies - yeah, right... I can understand what the committee wanted to do, along time ago perhaps, but 1) it's way too late now and 2) the way the eligibility rules are interpreted and enforced is utterly inconsistent. I know someone who has used polished Fantic 200 yokes for years without problem and will use them again next year without a problem. Personally I don''t care what they fit to their bikes and I've nothing against them, I just wish the organiser's stance would be to understand that not everyone can throw pots of money at specialists to build a bike that 'complies' with the regs. There are people who can modify their own bikes using parts from breakers that will bolt straight on and give them working suspension and alloy hubs, for a fraction of the cost of the specialist bikes. Why force Joe Bloggs on a limited budget to compete on a standard uncompetitive bike against the richer man's bells and whistles modernised version.... Or am I seeing it all wrong?

Not sure why you think that? Craig's backplate has slots so you can move the static timing point to wherever you want, so it's adjustable. The other ignition has 3 fixing points for static timing so it is also adjustable over three positions. Both have a built in advance curve, although one more than the other.

Champs positions Calendar (scroll to bottom of page for individual championship dates) Yellow route at the Forest trial is ideal for twinshocks. If you want a comparison with the ACU championship sections, the latter are generally harder, more technical with more to go at. That's not to say they are too hard but you have to be competent to go around those events without losing too many marks, the sections are all rideable but there is a fine line between a clean/single dab ride and a three, reflecting the fact that it is a national championship. The yellow route at the Forest trial has to cater for modern 0/40, Novices etc. as well as twinshock/pre65 so there is a wider range of abilities to consider, therefore the sections are easier than the ACU champs. However, they are still good sections and will give you plenty to think about in terms of picking lines and keeping your feet up. Cracking trial, you'll enjoy it. Next ACU trial is Torridge MCC - do it if you can, an excellent event.

Not sure you'll get one to go straight in. I'm not familiar with all of the Fantic model's forks but most if not all up to the upside down fork models are 35mm. The Section model's may be larger than 35mm, not sure. Not sure which Yam you mean but the mono Yam forks where they fit in the yokes are 36/37mm so 35mm forks won't clamp up. The twinshock Yam is 34mm so yokes are too small. If it is a Yam mono you should be able to get a complete front end from a Pinky which will go straight in. Probably a better brake on that as well compared to the earlier Fantics/Betas etc.

You have to be very careful with the exhaust locking ring as the thread is very fine and can easily get damaged if the ring comes loose and chatters around. Eventually the threads will strip, either from the chattering or when you're tightening it after it's come loose for the umpteenth time. It's an engineering job to repair with a new insert or oversized thread and new ring, so to be avoided at all costs. First off, clean all of the crap and crud from the threads on the ring and in the cylinder if you haven't already. Aerosol brake cleaner and a small wire brush works well. Get all the threads perfectly clean. There should be a gasket between the pipe and the cylinder. A Yamaha TY fibre gasket can be made to fit or Dave Renham at Bultaco UK may have a copper one for the MAR - this will be better than the Yam one as it isn't so thick and you need to get the ring to screw right in to use as many of the threads as possible, again to minimise the chance of stripping them. Use a proper C spanner on it when tightening - avoid the hammer and chisel method to turn it. Make sure it doesn't cross thread which it can easily do. Avoid really lamping it up, it needs to be tight obviously but don't overdo it as if the threads have had their edges taken off it is easy to go one tweak too many and strip what's left - trust me, I know.... When tight you can use locking wire or a spring from the ring to the left side front sumpguard bracket to stop it rotating undone. Just drill a small hole in the bracket to attach the wire/spring. Personally, I'd avoid using loctite as it could be a real bugger to undo the next time you need to. Providing the threads are ok and cleaned up before fitting you shouldn't need it, it should stay tight.

You don't say what problem you have but as standard the bike should have an Amal MK2 carburettor (26 or 27mm, can't remember) The jets would be something like Pilot jet - 20, Needle jet - 106, Main jet - 160, Throttle Slide no.3. I don't know where you can find a specification sheet for the Gripper but hopefully someone who owns one may be able to confirm the jet sizes for you.

Used airboxes appear on ebay from time to time, they are all the same for the MAR range including the green TR77 models. Air filter available from Sammy Millers (haven't bought one myself so don't know what they're like but they are advertised as available) Someone is remaking the sidepanels for both the white MAR models and the green TR77 (they differ in shape) Again, they appear on ebay from time to time. Or, if you can find a number for him, Steve Sell who trades as Marlimar, keeps them in stock and they aren't too expensive from what I remember (

You can speak to/e-mail Colin here; TY Offroad He should be able to get you one from the makers. It isn't a complete replacement ignition (ie; stator and CDI/coil) it is a new CDI unit and HT coil which uses the existing stator. Fairly straightforward to fit, it just requires a new bracket making which bolts to the existing frame mount to attach the two components as they won't both fit straight onto the frame mounting. I've tried it on my '75 350 MAR and can tell that it revs harder. A new Ossa stator from the same source may be a future availablity.

I haven't really had a chance to run my Majesty 320 properly with the latest electronic ignition kit as the bike (not the ignition) has a problem which isn't sorted yet. However, I have tried a replacement CDI unit on my Ossa from the same supplier as the Yam ignition and there is a noticeable increase in pull at about two thirds up the rev range. I'm not talking double the horsepower and all that bull, but there is a difference from the standard CDI and the bike will rev really hard on climbs. Bottom end is unaltered but when the revs start climbing I can feel the extra surge from about two thirds throttle. If the Yam ignition is configured the same, then the affect of fitting it to the TY should be similar but as mentioned, I haven't been able to try mine properly on the Majesty so I can't say for a fact. I had one of the early electronic kits fitted to the Majesty (with the black Slovenian CDI box) and I couldn't really tell any difference over the points set up, but my main reason for fitting it was convenience and to do away with points/condensor maintenance and mishaps, a 320 isn't in need of any more power. As regards a big bore kit, a 72mm piston is only going to increase the cc to 260cc with the 64mm stroke and I can't imagine 10cc extra is going to provide any sort of dramatic power increase, it's not much different from going to maximum oversize.

Fibreglass tanks are repro copies of the original type alloy mini-majesty tanks which were smaller than the 250 tanks. The original 250 tanks can have the filler cap on either side, no idea why. The person that made them for Shirty lives a stone's throw from me so I'll remember to ask him one day. Maybe he fitted the top part upside down on some of them reversing the side the filler is on.... The alloy tanks for sale on the French site are new repro alloy tanks, presumably to go with the repro frames that Magical had made. Not sure if they are full size or mini tanks. The mini tanks look much neater on the 250 bikes and give it a slimmer look than the original. Only problem is the amount of fuel they hold for road trials, particularly on the 320, you need your petrol stops planned as they are a bit thirsty. I've seen a few chrome framed Majesties around, had one once. Looks nice when it's new but doesn't wear well and if you have to have any welding repairs done if anything breaks it makes a mess of it. Had an Ossa frame chromed once and really wished I hadn't bothered afterwards.

Just to clarify - my post wasn't criticising observing. It's the riders I get frustrated at, particularly classic trials, not just SSDT, when they know it is a non-stop trial but they still stop hop whatever and expect not to be penalised for it - and wail like babies if they do get penalised.

That sort of thing has happened ever since the trial went back to no-stop in '97. Riders who mess up and get off line, stop and either continue after they've regained their balance or hop their way back into line and carry on, whereas if they continued with forward motion after messing up it would cost them at least a dab to get it back on line without stopping. So what should have been marks lost in a section because they couldn't keep the bike on line (the whole point of no-stop, forward motion at all times...) turns into a clean with the benefit of stopping and going and again. The crowd applaud it and the observer presumably feels pressured into giving the clean. The truth is, the rider messed up, lost their way or whatever, but gets away with it instead of being penalised. If the observing on all sections was correct, (which would then make riders ride proper no-stop) the scores wouldn't be as low as they are - any year. A few years ago I saw one rider on a very difficult section make a complete mockery of the rules. He flicked the bike out of the stream onto the bank. Hopped it round, jumped accross the stream onto the other bank, hopped it round again and launched it over some rocks and out for a clean. Brilliant technique but a 5 at least three times... If he'd stayed in the stream and tried to ride over the rocks as the section intended the score may have been somewhat different. It happens in classic trials too, riders stopping and hopping and getting away with it.

Plating was a standard finish on Godden frames. Early ones were yellow, then they were plated and on the last bikes they were red - changed to red on instructions from Yamaha I believe as red/white was Yamaha corporate colour at the time.

He doesn't actually say why he believes it is rare and I'm at a loss to know why he thinks it would be. I don't understand the statement 'bike needs a good cleaning up but wont it be worth to turn out on a bike that no one else has got or never will have'.... Without the frame number it's difficult to know exactly which model it is but it's one of the later 77 onwards green bikes, either the green tank/white guards/black frame model or the green frame/guards/tank model. Listed as a 250 but it has a bing carb, on the green bikes only the 350 (they're actually only 302cc) had a bing carburettor as original fitment, the 250 had an amal MK2. Not possible to tell which engine from the picture as they are identical externally. The pictures are poor but everything about the bike looks standard, apart from the colour. Look here for pictures of what they should look like (although colour is irrelevant really as it is personal choice) Ossa

Forearms as hard as concrete is arm pump - it's compartment syndrome, where the muscles in the forearm haven't got room to expand fully when exercised. The increased bloodflow from the exercise has nowhere to go if the muscles can't expand so you get the 'concrete' feeling due to the pressure of the blood in the muscle - it's why weights and other training won't really help as all you are doing is building the muscle up when it is already too big.. The operation for compartment syndrome cuts the fascia, which is the membrane holding all the muscles in place, from end to end so that it no longer restricts the expansion of the muscles. This enables the muscles to fully expand and allow the blood to flow through freely. I had it done about 4 years ago, worked well for a couple of years but it's slowly come back and is now the same as it was. I've had it for 25 odd years and it's now got to the stage where I've had to give up enduros before I kill or seriously injure myself and I can barely ride a modern trials bike anymore due to the constant clutch/brake control that is required which aggravates it. Old style riding without constant clutch/brake use I can just about get away with so I can at least still ride.

You need to lever behind the basket itself, not the hub, you won't get anything between the hub and basket. You need two 'instuments' with curved or L shaped ends pushed behind the basket so that you can push the basket outwards by levering between the back of the basket and the casing. I use two 12" long car tyre levers with curved L shaped ends although it can be done with one. This allows the lever to roll on the curve when levering against the basket and no part of the lever other than the curved part touches the casing so there is no risk of damage to it. Pushing the basket outwards will push the hub off with it. A couple of jolts normaly moves it. Just be careful what you are levering against, particularly the mating face where the clutch case fits. If you have a puller whose legs will fit behind the basket, that would be the better option.

Once you've taken the nut off the basket/hub there is nothing holding that assembly on the gear shaft. The reason it won't come off (unless someone has altered the way it is secured from standard) is probably because the hub is tight or stuck on the gearshaft splines. You can gently lever the basket outwards with something appropriate like tyre levers with curved ends (obviously gently without damaging casing mating edges or anything else) as it won't be seriously tight, not like a taper. Or, better, you can use a puller behind the basket if you have one that will fit. Pulling/levering the basket off will bring the hub with it. The basket has a needle roller bearing which sits on a sleeve that slides onto the shaft. As well as this sleeve there is a shim and a distance piece. All these should remain on the shaft when the basket is removed, it's unlikely the sleeve will come off inside the needle roller but check it doesn't. The other two pieces will remain on the shaft.

Pilot screw generally is 1 and half turns out as a starting point and then it is fine tweaking of both to get the final positioning right - how much tweaking depends also whether you want to run it with a tickover or not. As these bikes will ride well just on the throttle without use of the more modern clutch/brake technique they'll run better without a tickover but that is just personal choice. It's also easier to set up without a tickover. If you do run it without a tickover the throttle screw should be turned in just enough to give a tickover and then backed off very slightly until the engine just dies, don't turn it any more. Adjusting it this way means that if you have rolled forwards on the bike with the throttle shut, when you open the throttle again the bike should pick up immediately with no lag as it is already drawing in minute amount of mixture with the throttle closed, not enough to fire it but enough to help it pick up cleaner when you open the throttle again. You don't say which model Bult you have, earlier 250 had the MK1 Amal concentric, later models had the Amal MK2. Both have similar jetting I think, no personal experience of the later model with MK2 but MK1 has pilot 20, needle jet 106, main jet 150/160, needle on middle clip, slide number 3. Check what is in yours as who knows what may be in there after 30 odd years. The earlier bikes run pretty well on the original concentric Amals as long as they aren't worn obviously - after 30 odd years there is a chance it may be which could also be your problem, depends how much use it's had. The new concentric Amals that can be bought now don't seem to work as well, I've just fitted one to my type 49 Sherpa with the original jet size specs and slide number and it won't run like it should...

That's because every time I ride one I break it and it takes me 12 months to get it fixed again.... TYZ is the only one I can't break - it's old reliable...