woody

Ellastone Offroad have a Beta TR34 Stripey that they have broken for parts, may have the same coil as 87 model? 01889 590186

Well, given my luck and track record with punctures, that's probably just how it will be....

If you're ok with standard footrest position I'd leave them but if you're not move them. Forget originality, that's fine for a museum piece but if your using it you have to be comfortable. If that means moving them so be it. I was ok with the footrest position on these bikes back in their day but 30 years on a knackered back, neck and wrists means I can't ride them like that any more. They get moved.

Too many Majesties around - no early Cotas being ridden at all - do the Cota, be nice to see some Monts out there, I've a MK4b that I must get done sometime for the Miller series. Who cares what it's worth. Enjoying them is what counts.

If you go onto Todotrial Classic website you can download a parts list/manual for a 348. Use the link below which takes you onto Todotrial Classic, then select option 10 from the index on the left of the page for the manuals. They are mainly exploded parts diagrams I think, rather than an instruction manual on how to strip and rebuild the bike, but may be useful to you. Todotrial Classic

It always amuses me when someone posts something like this which is of no assistance to anyone - why not just say what the simple modification is as that would be far more helpful. How can they machine shoes to the exact diameter of the hub without the hub?

It all depends on whether the spoke holes in the Yam rim are at the correct angle for the conical hub, you may be lucky and they are, but I guess only the wheel builder can tell you that. Are you going for the conical hub for appearance or for a better brake. If the former I'm assuming you already have the hub. If it's for a better brake, see if you can find a complete Grimeca front wheel assembly as fitted to Fantic/Beta/Garelli/Armstrong twinshocks as generally they are a pretty good brake and they're conical. My Majesty front brake is tragic. You'll just need to have a fiddle with the spindle fitting as it is a larger diameter than the Yam one.

Can't tell you the actual size of the flywheel puller but you'll get one from Steve Goode/Sammy Miller etc without any problem. You need a clutch holding tool of some description to lock the clutch in order to undo the basket retaining nut. An old clutch plate that drives on the hub with a bar welded to it to locate through the fingers on the basket works. The cush drive on the crank is held on with an allen bolt which is an odd size but can't remember off the top of my head. Once that is removed you can remove the cush drive assembly and then the drive sprocket/chain/basket as one assembly. You are then left with the tapered sleeve on the crankshaft that the cush drive and sprocket sit on. This can only be removed with a puller as normally it is an extremely tight fit on the taper. Don't try to lever it off as you will fracture it as it is brittle or damage your casing - you won't budge it from the taper anyway unless you are extremely lucky. There is a special tool to remove this or you can make something. The groove towards the end of the sleeve is there to locate two semi-circular collars. A thick plate with a hole the same diameter as the sleeve can be pushed onto the sleeve, the collars are then fitted into the groove and the plate pulled forward until it butts up against the collars which prevent the plate from sliding off the sleeve. A conventional 2, 3 or 4 legged puller can then be used to pull against the plate to pull the sleeve off. As mentioned before, this sleeve can be very tight so if it doesn't budge you may have to put some tension on it, apply heat and tap it or tap the end of the puller to shock it free. Be careful as I have had them ping off and travel a few feet through the air when they let go, so stand to one side of it. Or it may just come off with a couple of turns on the puller if you're lucky. Once off, you can get to the kickstart spring. Clutch has to be removed to do the crank seal anyway.

If you run fully synthetic at 50:1 in the Mont it will be fine, no problems at all. That mixture is ok for old steel liners or modern plated liner. On plated liner you can go as weak as 70-80:1 on fully synthetic without a problem. Which brand oil is personal choice but Castrol TTS runs very clean, doesn't gum up piston rings or silencer like some other brands can do. I've used TTS at 50:1 in Yamaha TYZ, Bultaco Sherpa, Ossa and KTM 300. No problems with any of them.

The 198a is 250cc and the 199a is 325cc. Both are the all blue model.

At that price I think it's fair to say that it won't be ridden anyway and will just go into someone's collection. From what people who rode them at the time have said they were no match for their contemporary rivals from Spain at top level, but that is pretty obvious anyway. However, today's classic trials are nowhere near as tough as the nationals back then so if you really wanted to you could compete in the Miller or Traditional series on one. They'd take more input and effort from the rider to do well on but they'd make the sections. Juan Knight won the Isle of Man classic outright on his last year and that was riding at the front of the field too which was quite a disadvantage on slimey rocks. He's a very good rider yes, but the bike was up to it as long as the rider was good enough and it was nice to see it out there and being ridden. For me though, that would be one challenge too far I think....

Using 50:1 of Castrol TTS does not clog exhausts and does not affect throttle response. Even though I could run 70/80:1 on my TYZ I use 50:1 and that bike does not lack response and runs clean as a whistle. The reason I run 50:1 is because it suited any bike I had so I didn't have to worry about the wrong mix going in the wrong bike. That ratio suited the TYZ, KTM300 and the Bultaco and Ossa. Run a steel liner Bult or Ossa on 80:1 and it will more than likely seize, it's for plated bores and hard rings.

Yes Chris, I think the travel involved is possibly the strongest factor in riders entering these series. It's expensive these days (costs

Have you tried Nigel Birkett? He may have some TYZ wheels as when he did his frame kit for the TYZ he used GasGas type wheels. Wakefield Offroad also have used trials bike parts. Alternatively, dings in rims can be hammered straight (by someone who knows what they're doing, don't just attack it with a lump hammer...) and a wheel builder can true out buckles more than you would think possible.

Twinshocks in the Novogar... Right, seeing as how you keep talking out of your a*** this is how it is. Novogar Successful series - no need to change anything. It's one step down from British championship and gives the good riders on modern bikes a good test and a championship to contest. It's now just too much of a stretch for me these days and that is on a modern bike - if you think I want to ride a twinshock, no matter how good it is, in a Novogar, you are insane and you've obviously never been to one. Riders better than me dropping 50 - 60 marks on GasGas, Sherco etc. - I think both me and my twinshock would go home very bent and broken. Traditional Series No longer a classic series. As the name suggests it is a series based upon how trials used to be, one big lap or two laps of 20, with or without roadwork, for people who enjoy that type of trial. Works very well and is being well supported. Maybe not every round to my liking but that's just personal preference. Personally, I could do without the some of the sidecar rounds, but one or two are still very good events. Clubs have the option to put easier route over a certain percentage of sections for riders who don't fancy the championship route. The officials of the clubs themselves know whether they need to do this with their trial or not. There's nothing broken here so what are you trying to fix. Sammy Miller series Not a modern trials bike in sight. Specifically for twinshocks and Pre65, the easier route is fine for Pre65 bikes in more original spec including rigids. No 'modern bike' sections here, so this is the answer to your problem. No need to discuss the Traditional series any further. However, still doesn't get the support it deserves from twinshock or Pre65 bikes - why? You can't use you're familiar phrase - 'because it is a shambles and only caters for modern bikes' for this series. So why do you think this series isn't well supported? I'd be interested to know. Personally I would love to get back to the old Sebac/Falcon series of the 90s with 2 routes and classes for twinshocks, Pre65 unit and pre-unit. Maybe one day it will come round again. But there has to be a starting point. The Miller series offers a good starting point and from there, if riders on twinshocks and more modernised Pre65 want a further challenge, they can move up to the Traditional series. And then, if the numbers of twinshocks and Pre65 start to grow in this series, maybe, it could spawn a new series just for them - and the Miller series could revert to what it was originally introduced for - standard British Pre65 bikes. But for that to happen the entries of Pre65 and twinshocks needs to grow in one or the other of the current two series. There is not much sign of that. People own them but aren't getting out and riding them. If there were numerous riders clammering at the ACU doors baying for a championship to ride their old bikes in, then you may have a case for your ongoing argument. There aren't. So until that happens things will continue as they are. I'm just glad that there are trials, by virtue of the Miller and Traditional series, and many local modern events with a middle route, that allow me to enjoy doing what I enjoy most - riding old bikes in trials that are suited to them. Try it sometime.

No, not a chance mate, more important things in life to get frustrated over - like getting my Ossa to run properly.... Just trying to see whether someone can back up their repeated rantings with hard facts

You can practise at Shatterford, a venue used by the Stourbridge club. No need to pre-book, just turn up, pay

The problem we have with this topic Lee, is the fact that the person being most vocal and carping on about how badly organised and incorrectly formatted this championship is, doesn't actually ride in any of the events. Any comments made aren't from personal experience of riding the events themselves, so the comments about section severity and unsuitability for twinshocks are ill-informed, inaccurate and B*****ks. So come on Majestyman340, you ignored previous requests, so here's another opportunity to say which events you've competed in and which you thought were laid out for modern bikes Something you continually overlook is the fact that the Miller series doesn't have that many Pre65/twinshock entrants eiither - is that because those events are laid out for modern bikes too?

One of the advantages of owning a Pre65 in this area, and it doesn't have to be an expensive special, is that the BMCA club has a trial every week for Brit bikes from September through to April. Twinshocks aren't allowed. There are no twinshock clubs in this area, Pre65 has a much bigger following.

Harry Perry is Saturday 5th April Steve, I'm no expert on frame mods, but my C15 has standard length swingarm in standard C15 frame, rear shocks are positioned to quicken the steering, it has Ossa forks/Mont 247 yokes, it handles fine, don't think it would benefit from a longer swingarm. Not sure of the reasons for bracing the swan neck - It's useful for mounting a tank and lifting it higher away from the engine. I've no idea if there are other reasons for doing it so can't help there. On the Cubs, the bracing also acts as an oil tank, Millers do a kit for that.

Wish I did - it would give the bike a far easier time, but I haven't been in that territory since I was about 13 unfortunately.... You riding the Harry Perry next Saturday - still time to enter. Should be a good one. Plenty of rocks so you should feel at home and should be a healthy smattering of twinshocks. I'll be punishing myself on the Bult again.

What facts are you on about - Name the events YOU'VE competed in that have modern type sections

Personally, I don't think the TY Mono forks are any better than the Marzocchis fitted to 240/300 Fantics. Marzocchis from later aircooled bikes such as Stripey Betas, Fantic 301 are also so close in performance to the 240/300 forks or TY Mono forks that it really makes no difference. Forks from Yam TY twinshock and Honda TLR200/250 are pretty poor (all personal opinion obviously but that's mine) They are under-sprung and under-damped - they aren't as good as mid 70s Ossa/Bult/Mont forks. So, all that is being achieved by using Yam Mono or Marzocchi forks in a TY Yam or Honda is to put the front forks on a par with other bikes such as Fantic 240/300, Armstrong, Garelli, SWM etc. It is not cheating or fiddling (my opinion obviously) If you weigh around 10-12 stones the Yam or Honda forks are probably fine. If you are 17+ they aren't (which is why it's personal opinion) they bottom, top and generally do everything they shouldn't and nothing they should. Just out of interest, I had a Majesty 15 years ago fitted with Fantic forks (fitted by a previous owner) and no-one batted an eyelid. Now once you get past the aircooled mono years, bikes had upside down forks and no-one in their right mind would want to fit any of those. The next generation of right-way-up forks, as fitted to GasGas, Fantic, Beta watercoolers are superior and perhaps they should be made ineligible

Well. I'm not a bike builder so no expert on the subject, but that is what I'd be thinking about if I was starting off with a road bike. I know people have done it, but they're a lot cleverer than me when it comes to sorting bikes.