woody

And there were also a couple of the black beta techno Dougie replicas imported directly around here when they came out. How did they go in the Midlands mud? let me think for a minute. Oh Yes, I remember. In the words of the old Dead or Alive record; You spin me right round baby right round..... Or as Murray Walker used to say SPIN SPIN SPIN

You're thinking back too far. The last couple of years has seen an improvement and there have been some good trials. One or two could still be a bit stiffer but that is the problem if it is a combined sidecar / classic round. However, no-one cleaned any of the trials. As you know Nigel Birkett rode them this year and if he didn't clean any they can't be too bad. The only one I am sceptical of for 2005 is the Doncaster Cup as that has been far too easy in the past on more than one occassion. Hopefully they will have taken notice and improved the standard this time. The Otter Vale round in October can also be a bit easy I'm told but it is one I've never done. Out of the remainer though you have Bootle, Welsh Trophy, Lancs County, Torridge, Hillsborough, all of which are good trials. New for this year are the Sutton Falcons, which should be good, and the Cambourne and Redruth which I assume Colin Dommett will have a hand in, so that too should be good.

Mark - the first round is in February as far as I know - the Mansell. link below http://www.trialscentral.com/cms/showartic...p?articleID=790 Also, this is the link to 2005 calender which shows other rounds http://www.trialscentral.com/cms/showartic...p?articleID=812 You will need proof of age to get an age related plate but Yamaha UK are usually very helpful in this respect and will send you confirmation. If it is a genuine UK bike they will do it free of charge, if it was an import they charge -

For the Classic series next year the power of a TY175 would actually be ok. There was only one trial where power could offer an advantage through mud and up big climbs - Colchester - but it isn't in next year. The TY would still cope there as you just use the lower gears and scream it till your ears bleed. You just have to be more precise as there is less margin for error on those types of sections with the smaller engine, as if you're in a big gear you can't back off and go again if you get in a mess. A real shame this round is omitted as there were some BIG sections where you could really get on the throttle stop. With the other rounds there aren't really any events where power will be an issue. Most are technical sections rather than power sappers so suspension set up is more important than power, along with the ability to clutch/brake where necessary. Some rounds, like Bootle, Torridge etc. may have just one or two sections where power may give an advantage but these are the exception rather than the rule and still nothing that the TY can't cope with. Vitually all of the bikes are standard in reality. Nigel Birkett's Suzuki is indeed his 70s works bike, with the exception of the frame, so it is a one-off and nothing like a regular Beamish. The only bikes to come in for some modification are generally TLR250s as they aren't that good as standard and need a few tweaks (they're not bad, before I upset all TLR owners, just need a few tweaks to improve a few areas) All of the other marques are just ridden as they are. Again, most important thing is that the suspension/clutch/brakes work correctly. It isn't like Pre65 where you have to spend thousands to make a bike work to be competitve with others that have done it. Most later twinshocks can't be improved on that much that it will give anyone a significant advantage, so it isn't as costly as Pre65 to be competitve and you can still get decent bikes for reasonable outlay. If you don't buy the bike you are going to look at, get in touch with me and I can put you in touch with someone who has a few TY175s for sale, as well as an immaculate Whitehawk 200 which has done virtually nothing from new if you wanted to stretch that far. Something unique for the series - no-one else is riding one. It still has the 'whiskers' on the original tyres I think. I've never ridden one though so can't tell you what they go like. As HondRS says, given your preference for Yams, a 250/320 Majesty is worth considering although the 320s can be a handful - depends how they've been tuned. Finding a good one is also a problem. Whichever bike you decide upon, you should enjoy the series as it is starting to pick up again these last couple of years. As long as you're not expecting a trail ride though as some can offer a good challenge. Nothing silly (some may argue that about Colchester....) just tradtional type sections, but remember it is a national championship. The Mansell is on the easier side compared to some others. As long as the bike functions as it should it will be ok. Go into it on something with plank like suspension and no brakes and you will struggle.

make that 100% Juan is the older brother. Both brilliant riders and all rounders. Juan also has a liking for classic trials bikes and can ride those a bit too.

Yes, I can understand him being reluctant to tell what he's done if he's spent a long time doing R & D on it. First thing is to get the bike running with the standard motor and take it from there. Don't want to do anything that means altering the standard frame on the Seeley.

Definitely be interested to talk to him if you have a number to find out what he's done to convert to 250 - be even nicer if it would go out to 270 or 280 or so - just to get a bit more punch and torque out of the motor. If it can be done with tiger cubs..... I'm saying this and I haven't even tried the stock bike for power yet, it might be perfectly ok - but I am a touch over 16 stone so then again....

Yes, his are the contact details I have misplaced. When I've found them I can ask him how it was done. I've never ridden a Seeley so don't know what to expect when I get it built but even if I don't like it to ride, I just love the look of them. Like you say, they were built as a smaller version of the 360 which was a nice looking bike - almost as nice as an Ossa MAR.... One more thing I'm not sure about. I thought engines in the TLR200 and the RS200 (which is the motor used in the Seeley) were different units. Are they the same unit then, do you know?

OK - Thanks for that. Things begining to look a little clearer now. I see what you mean about the fins on the RS250. I noticed it but thought it was a shadow. I've since found a picture of the RS200 and see one or two differences between the two. Just didn't realise they did the RS250 as a production bike. So now I see you know a bit about Hondas..... Any idea how an RS200 motor has been converted to 250cc using a TLR barrel. I know of someone who has done it but at the moment can't find their contact details to find out how. Just wondered if you knew. I'm in the process of getting a Seeley and if I can get hold of a spare engine I'd like to convert it to 250.

I'm really confused with these bikes now. Not trying to be clever here or make a point, just genuinely confused. I thought the first pic was of a TLR250 because I didn't realise they did a version of it in Japan called the RS250, but the second picture is an RS200 isn't it, not a 250. I have seen pictures of the Japan only RS250 which were ridden in the SSDT around 1980 and they were nothing like the picture above of the TLR type RS250, or the RS200. They were almost a direct copy of the 360 looks wise. That's why I didn't think you'd posted a picture of it. Just to reiterate, I'm not trying to be clever here, just genuinely confused now... Slapshot 3 - As regards wheel building it's difficult to give a price as it depends on type of spokes etc. which affects cost. If you look at Central Wheel Components website, they have all prices on there so it's a reasonable guide. They also have rim prices too. Don't have a URL but you can find them on a search easy enough. As an example, it cost me about

I can see the pic of a nice TLR250 but where is the pic of the RS250

It's not so bad to do, just a bit time-consuming that's all. Manual covers it well, but basically; Loosen the top nut of each leg whilst the leg is still in the bike but undo the top yolk pinch bolts before trying to loosen. Put the leg in a vice or whatever to hold it. Loosen the allen bolt in the bottom of the fork leg that holds the damper rod in place. Don't remove it at this stage or oil will pour out, just crack the thread. Use an air wrench if you have one to do this but if not it should undo ok. The compressed spring should stop the damper rod turning. To get an allen key into the allen head you will need to screw the damper adjustment screw right in otherwise the allen key won't fit properly into the allen bolt head. Count the number of turns you screw the adjuster in so you can reset it afterwards. Once you've cracked the allen bolt, put the leg vertically in the vice (remember it's still full of oil at this stage) unscrew the top nut from the stanchion. The stanchion can then be pulled down showing the damper rod and spring. The top nut is still attached to the damper rod at this stage so hold the locknut that is underneath the top nut, you'll need to pull the spacer and spring down to see it, then unscrew and remove the top nut, followed by the spacer and spring. Make sure you note the order of these components as they come off for reassembly. You can now drain the oil by pouring it out of the stanchion. You'll also have to pump the stanchion and also the damper rod (not both at the same time) to remove all or at least most of the oil. Then remove the allen bolt from the bottom of the leg. Prise up the dust seal out of the leg and remove the circlip (I am pretty sure there is one) that holds the seal in. You then have to clamp the leg in the vice and pull hard and sharply on the stanchion to yank it out of the leg. At this stage only the tight fit of the bush is holding the stanchion in the leg. It may take a few good pulls but it will come out (cue the inuendos) Expect to fly backwards accross your garage when it does so make sure you have an clear path for your journey just in case..... When the stanchion comes out it will have the seal, bush and a spacer on it and it will also spew a bit more oil out. Note their order. You may as well put new bushes in whilst you're doing the seals. Reassemble the new bush and seal on the leg with the spacer and push the stanchion back into the leg. You should coat the seal with grease as per the manual. You will need to drift the seal and bush into the leg until they are seated correctly. You can't just push them in. There is a special tool but you can improvise. I use an old tube spanner large enough to slide over the stanchion. Whatever you use be careful not to damage the seal. Replace the damper rod allen bolt and ensure it is properly tightened. Then follow the procedure for filling with oil. Leave a final gap of 95mm from oil to top of stanchion. Refit the spring, spacer and top nut. Readjust damper adjustment screw and job done. Please note that this is from memory and just to give you an idea of the procedure. It's not the definitive procedure and I may have overlooked something as it's been a while since I did the job. Give yourself a couple of hours as it's the first time you've done it. It's not too hard, just a bit time consuming but follow the manual and you will be ok.

No problem with stainless spokes. My MAR wheels were rebuilt about 12 years ago with stainless spokes and I have never had one break or even needed to tighten one - On a bike that has had some abuse and hard riding over that period and they also still look new.

PeteJ - do you know what you're letting yourself in for..?? You'll cry tears of blood and Angels will weep before you're finished... Have your frame and swingarm powder coated by a reputable firm as it will provide a durable quality finish. They will blast it as part of the job. Fork legs/yolks just need to be polished by a professional as they are able to remove all of the scratches and imperfections and get the mirror look, as long as there are no deep gouges of course. Or you could do it yourself with wet and dry and solvol but I wouldn't recomend it for your sanity and although you'd get a good shine you'd never get the deep mirror look. I bought a polishing kit once and did a Bultaco but bloody hell, what a mess. The whole garage looked like it had been sprayed with soot and I looked like a miner - never again. Only way to tidy up hubs really well is to strip the wheels and have the hubs and brake plates powder coated too. Make sure the bearing housings and brake surfaces are properly masked. If they powder coat the inside of the drum it is an everlasting nightmare to remove it - trust me, I know. You then need to rebuild the wheels with stainless spokes. New rims or polish or anodise the old ones. It's a lot of time and effort and is also very costly. I rebuilt my Ossa years ago and did a similar job to Booma's Honda in terms of finish but it doesn't stay looking like that for long if you ride it regularly for any length of time, which I did. Wouldn,t stop me from doing it again though (what am I saying?) as it is worth it when it is first done - you only have to look at Booma's to see that. Powder coaters and polisher etc. you will find in your local yellow pages or classic bike mags. If you want to sell your tl200E instead of subjecting yourself to this torture, send me a message as I've been looking for one to ride in the twinshock series next year.

Yep, the bike comes with non-adjustable ignition/fuel mapping and you have to buy the adjustable kit. Can't really see why it should be a problem though as according to feedback the standard set-up will have more performance than all but top-notch riders can exploit so who needs it?

There are 4 I think, don't know exactly where in the inlet/exhaust they are, which if removed turn it into a rocket apparently

can't see you getting home before dark...

You weren't alone in stopping riding but others were for different reasons. In the 90s, the SSDT and other trials were on their knees from a shortage of riders due to the ridiculously tight and totally unrideable sections of the era that the average Joe had no chance on because they couldn't trick ride. This meant they couldn't hop and bounce and reverse themselves into the required positions to attack obstacles. In truth not many others could do it consistently either, INSIDE of the rules. Remember the 5 for a stationary dab. How many times was that given? Not many and there was hell to play from riders and minders when it was. To try and avoid it riders just carried on hopping around like demented rabbits to regain their balance and avoid the dreaded foot down, but in the end the stationary dab inevitably came during this circus act. This performing caused the endless queuing whilst riders p#ssed about for minutes on end getting lined up for several attempts to get over obstacles. This pattern was repeated throughout Nationals where average riders had absolutely no chance of getting through sections as they couldn't trick ride. Result - falling entries and as an alternative, the start of the twinshock series with traditional sections and rules. Bugger, I knew I shouldn't have got involved in this topic but I'm on a rant and roll now... I'd argue that a rider shows more control and ability by turning up at a section, inspecting it, defining what he/she believes to be the best line for a clean, or even a planned dab and then executing that ride in the planned manner. One attempt to enter and ride through the section to the ends non-stop. If you fail you fail, no second chance to attempt an obstacle again or to recover from wandering off-line because of a mistake by stopping, hopping around back on line and carrying on. Just like a golfer who can't stop and redirect the ball if it is going to miss the putt. Or the tennis player who can't stop the serve that is heading outside of the line and bring it back in. One chance and one chance only. Sure, the hopping and bouncing is extremely clever, but it is a different type of skill. If it is allowed, sections can be broken up into sub-sections and ridden a bit at a time whilst the rider stops, adjusts, has a look and goes again. Not as much thought needed to plan a line as you can sort it out as you go along. Two very different skills and approaches, the latter enables much bigger or spectacular sections, but only for the very few, and there would still be fives galore if they were observed properly. I know which I think is the purest approach and form of trials and it is the former. Anyway - Back to the original question of ACU rules and it depends on the club/centre/type of event/observer etc. etc. etc. As someone has already pointed out there are 2 sets of rules and clubs can run whichever they like for club/centre/national events. The rules that allow 'sideways' movement are open to such abuse that they are very rarely correctly enforced. Feet-up stops go unpenalised. Riders bounce bikes all over the place giving the impression of continuous forward/sideways movement but often the bike can have moved backwards in relation to the section. Some observers will give you the nod to 'do what you like lad' as 'the sections a bit tight'. Others don't know and aren't bothered. Some will let you come out of the section boundary to gain an advantage, others won't. So if all of this rambling tosh has left you still confused over what the rules are, ACU or AMCA for that matter, then that is the point. So is everyone else so you are not alone.... And no, I haven't a bloody clue what the answer is

You will be the envy of some US collectors who are going for the full set of Ossas. That is the one they can't get.

I agree that on no account should riders be forced to ride at a level they think is too difficult for them

A mate of mine who is an absolutely brilliant fabricator/welder once made a replacement fuel tank for another mate's TYZ for the Scottish. It fitted perfectly, the plastic cover still fitted correctly and I think it gave almost an extra litre capacity. It filled every bit of available space under the tank cover and even though it couldn't be seen was still beautifully made. I borrowed it myself a few years back to do the SSDT. Unfortunately it has bee sold on a couple of times in recent years and we don't know who has it now. Another way of increasing the capacity is to make a small supplementary tank that fits onto the front forks, where the number board fits. Same mate made a few of these some years back as well for local riders. They were the same size as the number board but about a couple of inches deep and again took around a litre of fuel. If you know someone who can alloy weld and fabricate, this would be fairly easy to make as it is just rectangular in shape. Just needs a filler cap and tap outlet and a fuel line to the carb. I think some firm was selling something similar a few years ago as a drinks carrier as well - same principle, except it wasn't connected to the carb...

I'm with you there. I doubt Joe Public will ever know the real reason. Speaking to someone at the weekend who has one on order, all paid for etc. (some time ago as well) and he says they have been halted because of a 'branding' issue that has to be corrected. ie; some are branded as Mont some Honda. Apparently they were all the same. Something to do with the front mudguard or stay. Wasn't really paying attention as I was taking it with a pinch of salt. So there is another reason for the delay from someone 'in the know'. I just feel sorry for the poor sods that have ordered them, particularly those who have paid up front in full, and are being kept waiting without the slightest public sympathy or statement from the importers or factory. It is really disheartening to look forward to receiving your new bike and..........nothing. But they did the same with the 315.

Cheers Bikespace - taken in the spirit in which it was intended.. How about this then 1975 Ossa 250 on it's 29th birthday. Lakes 2 day and Loch Lomond 2 day in 2001, zillions of classic championship rounds over the last 15 years, loads of centre trials (sometimes entered somewhat over ambitiously considering the lack of clutch and brakes and the nature of modern sections..... ) zillions of club trials etc. etc. In other words it's been battered. Excellent in its youth but dementure and frailty setting in. Recently; Too many engine rebuilds to think about. Probably more strip-downs than the tears I've shed... A voracious appetite for pistons. Now on it's third liner and up to maximum again. Probably single-handedly responsible for wiping out Millers entire stock of pistons and rod kits over last few years. Broken frame 7 broken rear brake plates 3 broken front brake plates Several duff ignitions Hideous appetite for swing arm bushes Clutch with more of an aversion to disengaging than Honda have for releasing their 4T bog wheeler. Brakes that actually make you accelerate when applied, the type of acceleration that is only matched by the resultant passage of #### through the bowels and widening of the eyes Repeatedly breaking or bending gear lever as the engine is wider than all of the rolly pollys standing side by side. A recent propensity to pink and knock for no apparent reason causing more detonation than found in the average working rock quarry - culminating in the mother of all blow-ups at this weekend's Classic Experts which I had been so looking forward to and didn't bloody well finish. It is being pensioned off herewith. Who said Gassers were the least reliable

been fighting this for too long and just have to do it '95 TYZ on it's 9th birthday, several SSDT, numerous centre trials, nationals, club trials, even subjected to some 'throttle to the stop' road racing around Scottish twisties and so far; still on original piston and rings original clutch engine never been apart never loses water original shock and s/arm bushes bashplate and all of its bolts line up perfectly still does 80mph and a bit It has, finally this year, been treated to some wheel bearings. Hadn't bloody well budgeted for them this year though... Sorry - just couldn't resist it

Oh Yes......... last year. First day before the first group of sections. Not the fuel capacity of the bike to blame though. An Arctic was parked up on the pavement obscuring the flags to turn us into a junction. I didn't know to turn off there so sailed past and went a good way before realising something was wrong. U-turned but ran out before I reached the fuel check. A long push and finally blagged some neat fuel of a farmer to get to the fuel check. Great bloody start to the week. Guy on a Rev 3 was with me and did the same but his bike went a bit further than mine before he ran out. Mishaps like that aside, the fuel capacity on the TYZ is enough to get you around without increasing it. You can put extra fuel in the frame. The bike I have at the moment has been done but without stripping it can't see exactly how it is done and I've never used the extra capacity - and no, it isn't the bike I rode in last year's. The holes on the inside of the frame spars are welded up, A tap/outlet is put into the bottom of the cross-brace that runs between the spars by the carburettor and presumably is connected to the pipe from the tank to carb. There is a breather in the top of the frame just in front of the headstock. What I can't work out is how the fuel gets into the frame in the first place, unless it is filled through this breather. I shouldn't worry though a it will get round on the standard tank.