woody

There is also something called Atom ignition doing the rounds which replaces points and condensor. It's an Australian product and I have no idea who imports it but apparantly it can be used on any 2-stroke engine. I was talking to someone today who has just bought one for a Bantam. It cost

Just to throw a spanner in the works I put a hefty bend in the rod of one of the Falcons on my Ossa at the Torridge round in 03 - some fairly juicy rocks in that round. Bootle and the Hillsborough round have some fair rocks in too, although at Bootle, it is more likely that if a rod is going to get bent it will be crossing the moors if you're motoring a bit, rather than in a section. I haven't bought any Falcon trials shocks for a while, but last year I bought a pair for a Bultaco Pursang. These cost

Miller does them if it is the wrap around type that you mean to fit the curve of the rear guard.

The falcons will not give you much change from

Have you have got proof of the bike'a age from what DVLA consider a legitimate source before you go for the age related plate. This is normally the importer or in this case Yamaha UK, or they also accept dating certificate from the Vintage Motorcycle club. Without the proof they will only put it on a Q plate. Apologies if you already know this - just wouldn't want you to have a wasted trip.

But don't do tubeless trials rims - or at least didn't when I asked recently

May be a good idea to speak with Martin at Scorpa UK to see if the frame numbers (I'm assuming they have them) can be used to identify the year of manufacture and also UK model. As the general design and appearance of the sorpa hasn't really changed it could be easy to get taken in by a bike that has had its colours updated but is in fact older than it appears. In terms of which year is best, I don't think any year has a particular advantage over another in terms of performance for a cluban rider, so an 01 or an 02 in good condition would be just as good for a clubman as a new bike.

Pems in Rochdale carry Fantic spares so worth a try. If the forks are Marzzochi, I think they are, it may also be worth trying the UK importer/agent as the bushes may be a common part with other forks.

For a tank cover try Steve Goode motorcycles in Welshpool. He used to stock them so may have some left. 01938 850544. That number is off the top of my head but he advertises in TMX if you want to check it.

Fuji is too big to fit on one of those GP bikes...

As far as I know, Sherpas and Pursangs only had 35mm forks, the Sherpa forks being pretty much the same as Ossa, other than the leading axle. To clarify you should contact Dave Renham at Bultaco UK as he is the leading UK Bulto specialist http://www.bultacouk.com

It's fair to say I think that most 80s bikes have footrests much higher than todays bikes. As you have said, lowering them, as well as moving them rearwards slightly, gives you a riding position of standing in the bike, not on top of it and bent over the bars. Not only does this give a feeling of greater stability and enable you to balance better, it also shifts rider weight back a bit putting more weight over the rear wheel. It's definitely a worthwhile mod, especially for taller riders when rebuilding an old bike - I've done it on my Ossas and Majesty. Went a bit too far on the Majesty and had to move them forwards again a tad as the front wheel wouldn't stay on the ground. Problem is it means welding on new mounts and if the bike has been rebuilt, as yours has, it is going to mess up the frame.

Don't let anyone misguide you into thinking that a 125 is underpowered and no good for trials. If they were they wouldn't make them. A 125 GasGas will pull me fine (as will a 125 Scorpa) and I don't get any change out of 17 stone these days,so if it will pull my weight it has enough power for anything but the most serious of sections - ie; sections that are beyond most club riders ability regardless of the bike. All you have to accept is that they haven't as much power as a 200/250 etc. so they have to be ridden accordingly - correct gear, choice of line etc. is more critical than on a bigger bike. On a bigger bike a handful of throttle in a bigger gear can get you out of trouble sure, but only if you are good enough to use it. Chances are that if you have got into that sort of mess in the first place you're not going to get out of it regardless. Ross Danby, one of the top youth riders, is in our centre. He rides a 125 Pro and has no problems whatsoever. I've watched him in our trials. Does things on it that adults can't do on 250s, 280s, 290s 300s whatever. Never looks short on power. At club level, trials isn't about having loads of power anyway - if anything it is a hinderence, will get you into trouble and will cost you marks unless you know how to use it. From what you've said it sounds like your bike has a problem as it shouldn't die when you snap the throttle. The biggest of engines will do that if something is wrong. As it is nigh on impossible to diagnose from descriptions as it could be anything, you're best bet is to take it to a local dealer who knows what they are doing, let them try the bike and ask their opinion - or even take a trip to Shirty's as I am sure they would be helpful and they have the ground to try the bike there, so should be able to reproduce your fault and diagnose it. If I were you I'd try and sort the problem. Learn to ride a 125 well and you will be able to go on to ride anything after that. It will teach you to think about a section more, plan lines better, pick gears better and give you better throttle control in the long run - all of which are the essence of a good trials rider. Also save you money from changing bike for the wrong reason...... which is always a good thing Hope you get it sorted

Reason I don't use tubed IRC is because I just can't get on with them. I've tried them on my Ossa and on the tubed type spare wheel I had for my TYZ. Outcome was the same each time. The sidewalls are too soft and the wheel rolls in the tyre on cambers and when accelerating out of a turn up a bank. Increasing the pressure to eradicate this means no grip. I couldn't run it at anything less than 5psi, otherwise it would roll, although even at lower pressures it still wouldn't grip on either bike. Earlier this year I had a go on someone else's Majesty at the section I was observing on. I rode it over some angled rocks and straight away could feel the rear wheel wanted to slide down the rocks, not because of lack of grip, but because it felt like it was rolling in the tyre. Without looking at the tyre I said to him - this is an IRC tubed tyre isn't it? Yes he said. When he asked me how I knew and I told him he said now I'd mentioned it he had experienced it too, he just hadn't realised it was the tyre. It behaved in exactly the same way as those I have tried in the past. That is why I use the tubeless type IRC. For me they work better than anything else. Now I'm not saying that the IRC tubed is no good, it just doesn't work for me, but I know other people who are happy with them and don't seem to experience the same problem. Come to think of it, they are a fair bit lighter than me........ (and my Majesty riding mate)

It's like every other form of motorsport world championship. It's been totally sanitised for the benefit of TV, sponsors, sponsor's guests and whatever else you can think of. What, have the bikes ridden in muddy conditions..?? Oh no sir, can't have mud covering up the sponsors decals now, can we, or mudguards turned brittle with freezing temeratures snapped off at the slightest touch, sponsors decals crunched into the ground..... You only have to look at what the FIA have done to the world rally championship and the UK round in particular to see how things have progressed. Once a truly great event, the RAC rally ran for five days in November, one of the toughests events on the calender. First they reduce WRC events to 3 days with a greatly reduced mileage, with some stages driven twice. Then they tell the UK sorry, you can't have it in November anymore, the conditions are too extreme. Can't have rally cars sliding about on ice or sloshing through all those muddy British forests. If you want to keep the rally you'll have to run it in the summer. So the date was brought forward. Naturally the British summer took a hand and the weather was just as bad as it would have been in November. Poetic justice. OK, rant over. Sorry but your post just struck a chord. I remember the old style format of WTC from 70s and 80s, good traditional events in all conditions, with no indoor circus to get in the way, and when the British round was held, good centre riders could compete and ride alongside their heroes in a field of slightly more than a dozen riders..... Progress isn't always improvement I think.

Depends on your reason for wanting to use a tubeless tyre, but you can fit a tubeless tyre on the original tubed Sherpa rim without any problem by using a tube. Tyre doesn't need modifying in any way won't slip or fall off the rim. Still use the security bolts though. I have used an IRC tubeless tyre on my standard Ossa wheel for years and it has never fallen off the rim. The reason I use the tubeless IRC is because I have found it is the tyre that gives the best grip, not specifically because I want a tubless tyre. I also have one fitted to a Yamaha Majesty rear wheel, again, no problems. We have fitted an IRC and a Michelin tubeless to my mate's 72 Sherpa, no problems. If you want a tubless rim because you feel that it will give better performance without a tube in it you can buy tubeless rims, 36 hole, but when I last looked into it they were about

Andy (Booma) Just out of interest what shocks are those fitted on your Yam?

Not sure if you will get the old style braceless renthals now. Must admit though, the shape of the modern braced type have a better feel to them than the old style. Don't know why but definitely feel more positive on the steering. Not sure about the old ones being strong enough as we used to break bars all the time in the 70s. Can't remember the last time I broke a modern braced pair (so guess what will happen Boxing day when I borrow my mate's Sherco.....) Have you thought about lowering the footrests. Shouldn't be too bad a job on your bike as the brackets bolt on don't they, so you don't have to chop the frame? If so, make or buy some new brackets and lower the footrest hangers, maybe move them back a bit too but caution here as it is a short wheelbase bike and you don't want to make it too light on the front by going too rearwards. All of the Yams suffer from footrests that are too high for tall riders. I've had to do the same on my 320 Majesty. The footrests were almost 17" off the ground.....!! - almost like standing on the saddle. Lowering them has the same affect as higher bars but with the added benefit that you are standing lower in the bike, rather than over it, which helps balance. Like a modern bike riding position. Worth looking at.

Any chance of a close-up picture of that sticker as needless to say mine has long gone and no-one has any now. I can get one made from a copy

Don't know the TLR200 well enough to comment on it, although I'd give the Majesty the edge if both are in standard trim. As regards the Majesty I would also agree that it should be competitve enough in standard form as long as everything is working as it should - brakes, dampers etc. and you're not trying to compete against modern bikes. The 175 forks are a smaller diameter than the 250 but are up to the job. They can be a little soft on the spring rate and damping but it is easy enough to experiment with different oil grades and spacers to pre-load the springs. To change to 250 forks you will have to bore out your yolks to take the larger diameter 250 legs, or fit 250 yolks also. They should fit straight in as the 175/250 use the same head bearings I believe. Although yours is a Godden frame I think they still retained the Yamaha head bearings which are ball race (and a ball-ache to fit....) However, the standard 250 forks are also under damped and have softish springs so there is not really any point changing. On works or supported rider Majesties, they were revalved to firm up the damping. Mono forks are bigger diameter again. To fit a mono front end will require the headstock altering to take the different bearings for the mono yolks, or fitting the 175 stem into the mono yolks. You also have to bear in mind that the mono forks are leading axle, so they will increase the wheelbase and also alter the steering, making it slower. I would stick with the 175 forks and concentrate on getting them right. Try it in a trial first to see how they perform and take it from there. You'll never get the right impression from them practising. The engine should be powerful enough. It may well be a 200, being a Majesty. Just don't expect to pull high gears from low revs. It is an engine that has to be buzzed in low gears rather than plonked in higher gears, therefore ride it accordingly. And they will rev...... For an indication of how competitve it is you only have to look at the results of a Mr Postlethwaite who rides one up in Cumbria. He has humbled many a modern bike in the Lakes 2 day. It is a Birkett prepped bike I guess but still only a 200. Finally - very nice bike. Looks superb. I'm sure I've seen it at a trial with a previous owner. Did you buy it from around the Stoke/Cheadle area. If so I'd guess it is the the bike I saw. If so the rims are tubeless I think, as are the tyres. They look tubeless rims from the photo. Hope the 320 Majesty I'm building turns out that nice

Not too familiar with American bikes, which are the before/after pictures? ...... Only joking of course, very nice job indeed Charlie. Look forward to seeing the Cota if that is done to the same standard.

like a 330 Cota if you are a Monty fan. mmmmmmmmm.......... nice

MT13 is a very old design from the 70s, hard compund, MT43 replaced it in early 80s, softer compound than the 13 with unique tread pattern. Either will work OK on mud but are way behind current super soft tyres from Michelin, IRC or Dunlop. Those three will give superior performance by a long way, like you wouldn't believe, on mud and especially rocks/rocky streams. The pirellis will be unbeatable on snow or ice though as their harder compounds bite in better. Chances are your MT13 has been on for many years so may now be very hard and pretty much useless. Can't really help with the carb as don't know much about cubs. Guess you've elliminated the basics like the carburettor body being worn out, old jets etc. Apparently the Amals differ in some way depending on whether they are for 2-stroke or 4-stroke engine but don't know how. Make sure you have the correct type if that is the case. Someone else on this forum is bound to know. Could also be electrical?

Don't worry about that - it's what a forum is for...... Everyone has and is entitled to an opinion and I'm certainly not on a high horse over this. For me, it is a simple case of what I can't understand anymore, for the life of me, is this 'spirit of Pre65' thing. I've heard it from various quarters, usually in trials from someone who is not winning that day, but their mods are ok when they are winning...... I spend a fair bit of the year competing alongside and sometimes in Pre65. I've been lucky enough also to have ridden some of the top bikes, Mick's James, Peter Salt's FB, trick 500 Ariel. From my experience, modified bikes are the norm, not all to that degree though obviously. I noticed Duckwizard was in Scotland but I don't know where. Could be Southernmost and therefore competes in Pre65 in England where virtually anything goes now (discs would be pushing it but I'll bet the Paolis have been done somewhere.....) If he rides a standard bike he'd be at a disadvantage in England. May not matter to him I don't know, but it is why I did say I don't know how things are policed in Scottish club trials. I think things have progressed way to far in Pre65 now to stop modifications. Too many bikes have been done. Their owners wouldn't ride standard bikes by choice otherwise they wouldn't have modified them in the first place. Some people would surely go bankrupt as a whole industry would fail....... I think they should let all modified bikes compete in the Scottish as it makes no sense to me at all how they differentiate which bike is elligible or not. Some seriously modified bikes compete whereas some that are less competitive cannot. My feeling is let them all in and have a trophy for the best standard machine also, as well as the current awards. Riders can choose to ride as standard or modified bike and standard bikes aren't then competing against modified. Wouldn't be hard to judge if a bike was modified or not - just ride it over a few rocks......