woody

If it has drums front and rear then it should be one of the first models which came as 323cc followed by a 240cc. They had an oil-pneumatic rear shock which worked on gas pressure - no spring. Quinn's was the importer but he is long gone. Robinsons in Rochdale were a dealer and are still around so may have some spares. Best bet may be Brian Griffiths M/Cs in Hereford (I'm sure it's Hereford) as his son Carl used to ride one and I think he has spares. Don't have a number though. I had one of the first 323 models. If it's any help and I can get the scanner working I'll post a photo , although have to find the old pictures first.

Dabster, I'd agree with your thoughts on the power/torque of the 325 against 340. I've owned and ridden later 325s and the power delivery was always quick, or snappy perhaps. I've only ridden one 340 ever, finally got the chance a couple of years ago after a classic trial I had ridden on my MAR. Was well impressed. Immediate impression was how torquey the motor was (would be after the MAR though) not snappy or sudden, just a smooth and predictable delivery of torquey power. The suspension worked really well on the front although the rears - falcons - were a little soft but not too far away (see, they're not always perfect ) I also felt that the steering had been 'tucked in' and was a little quicker compared to what I would call the norm for Bults. This all led to one very nice bike which had loads of usable power, steered and gripped well and was stable over the rocky sections I tried. Only drawback over the Ossa was one section with a series of tight turns which the Ossa did with room to spare. The 340, even though it felt as though the steering had been tightened, still had to have the front wheel floated off the odd handy rock or root to make the turn. Didn't have the lock/steering angle to just steer round. But then the Ossa will turn up its own *rse so not really a criticism. When I gave the bike back I asked him if he wanted to sell but no way - he then told me it was one of Thorpe's old bikes so that may account for it being so good. As it is the only one I've ridden I wouldn't know if it was any different from a standard one. He wasn't selling anyway but one day perhaps..... I've since managed to acquire one but it needs some work. It has had the frame mod to move the dampers forward at the rear although the engine hasn't been repositioned, or the swingarm mount. Seems to work quite well suspension wise but the exhaust is a disaster and needs sorting as the engine (noisy is being kind - it's what Hookey's should have sounded like....) is being strangled. The alloy fabricated airbox is a beaut however. Welding on the repositioned frame tubes is messy but can be tidied, I hope. There is a good bike in there somewhere - it's just finding it..... So Dabster, I'm going to try and get around to rebuilding it in a few months. If I e-mail you can you send me your list of magic Sherpa tricks so I can plan ahead on the what's hot mods list. Big John you're a scoundrel..... I saw that 250 6-speed too and thought the same as you - bet that is a 340. Didn't want to investigate any further though as if it was I know I'd have done the same as you and I just wouldn't have the room to keep it or the time to ride it. I've already overdone it. But then again, a gentleman and all that. Good spot anyway.

Perhaps some have been influenced by their road biking bretheren. Ever been to a bike gathering in a pub carpark on a summer evening. Seems to be the done thing amongst a certain element of sportsbike rider when leaving the place, to start the bike up and immediately rev the tits off it in neutral bouncing the rev limiter to impress everyone takes years of practise and the level of skill required is beyond measure...

If you want the ultimate testament to the ruggedness of a 340, Dave Hooke used to ride the bike he owned from new in the old Falcon series for a good few seasons during the 90s. Anyone that knows him will recall what a handy rider he was on that bike, winning many rounds. More appropriate to one of the issues raised on here however, reliability, they will also know what a merciless chap he was with a bike. If it was an animal he would be on the most wanted list of the RSPCA. That Bulto took some serious abuse over the years and only needed one rebore in all that time. Nothing else broke on it as far as I recall and I have seen it held on full throttle for periods that really should have melted every revolving part inside the motor before welding it together. But the bike just took it and moved on to the next event. Price of a 340 now depends upon who is selling and what people are prepared to pay I would say, depending on how/where it is advertised, as well as the region. Vague? Yes, but a nice example on e-bay a few months ago which you would expect to have made

The kits to blow out dents for MX pipes are still available and work very well but the final cost would probably be as much as a new front pipe for a trials bike. You also need access to a torch to heat the pipe sufficiently - small propane torches don't always generate enough heat, and a compressor. Also, MX front pipes are thinner guage than trials I think and also have a much larger surface area, so may respond better to the blow-out kit. Mate of mine who is a brilliant fabricator/welder put a similar type of dent in his 315 front pipe. He sorted it by cutting out the dent, shaping a new peice of metal to fit, TIG welding it in and then buffing the welds. Once repainted you could not see the join, no way. But you have to be very good at that to make a good job of it.

I think they may be Acerbis. They recently produced universal front and rear guards for older trials bikes. I was shown a pair (white) to see if they were suitable for my Ossa but I discounted the front one as it had flat edges and wasn't rounded at the front. Sounds very similar to what you are describing. Definitley won't be Gonelli as they are round section and front end (Sherpa) Stilmoto are round section but square front with a lip at the edge - Preston Petty copies sort of. UFO used to make nice front guards, round section, round front but don't anymore. Don't think anything else is available. Pretty sure they could be the new Acerbis guards but don't know who stocks them - Steve Goode may be worth a try as I'm fairly sure it was one of his suppliers that had them.

Yep, some of the blokes in my club fitted boost bottles to their TY175s back in the 70s. They made their own which, if I remember correctly, was a cannister of some sort fitted to one of the downtubes from the headstock connected to the inlet via a pipe. Cheap and simple. Not sure how they work but the purpose was to improve throttle response and engine pick up from low revs/tickover. It must have worked as a good few of them had them and they were blokes who knew what they were doing - seemed to be to me anyway. One of them even ran his 175 with no fork springs, used air pressure only. A bit brave I thought as it only needed to lose pressure and that was it - trial over. They worked very well as I remember though and he won a good few club events on it.

That's beause it's a Yam.... Seriously though, I've also seen a few 4 stroke enduro bikes play at submarines and if it is purely the affect of water on electrics that is the issue, they have had no problem because like Munch said, they are well sealed units. The problem is getting all of the water out of the airbox/engine/exhaust before it will start, no different from a 2 stroke in that respect really. Don't forget 2 strokes have sealed electronics as well such as CDI unit and coil and they aren't affected by a good dunking - although Beta and Gassers don't need water to upset the electrics...... (and that isn't a dig against them as I'm very close to buying an 04 280 pro because I like my mates so much, it's a nice bike - If I do I'll just buy a spare CDI with it...)

There is also something called Atom ignition doing the rounds which replaces points and condensor. It's an Australian product and I have no idea who imports it but apparantly it can be used on any 2-stroke engine. I was talking to someone today who has just bought one for a Bantam. It cost

Just to throw a spanner in the works I put a hefty bend in the rod of one of the Falcons on my Ossa at the Torridge round in 03 - some fairly juicy rocks in that round. Bootle and the Hillsborough round have some fair rocks in too, although at Bootle, it is more likely that if a rod is going to get bent it will be crossing the moors if you're motoring a bit, rather than in a section. I haven't bought any Falcon trials shocks for a while, but last year I bought a pair for a Bultaco Pursang. These cost

Miller does them if it is the wrap around type that you mean to fit the curve of the rear guard.

The falcons will not give you much change from

Have you have got proof of the bike'a age from what DVLA consider a legitimate source before you go for the age related plate. This is normally the importer or in this case Yamaha UK, or they also accept dating certificate from the Vintage Motorcycle club. Without the proof they will only put it on a Q plate. Apologies if you already know this - just wouldn't want you to have a wasted trip.

But don't do tubeless trials rims - or at least didn't when I asked recently

May be a good idea to speak with Martin at Scorpa UK to see if the frame numbers (I'm assuming they have them) can be used to identify the year of manufacture and also UK model. As the general design and appearance of the sorpa hasn't really changed it could be easy to get taken in by a bike that has had its colours updated but is in fact older than it appears. In terms of which year is best, I don't think any year has a particular advantage over another in terms of performance for a cluban rider, so an 01 or an 02 in good condition would be just as good for a clubman as a new bike.

Pems in Rochdale carry Fantic spares so worth a try. If the forks are Marzzochi, I think they are, it may also be worth trying the UK importer/agent as the bushes may be a common part with other forks.

For a tank cover try Steve Goode motorcycles in Welshpool. He used to stock them so may have some left. 01938 850544. That number is off the top of my head but he advertises in TMX if you want to check it.

Fuji is too big to fit on one of those GP bikes...

As far as I know, Sherpas and Pursangs only had 35mm forks, the Sherpa forks being pretty much the same as Ossa, other than the leading axle. To clarify you should contact Dave Renham at Bultaco UK as he is the leading UK Bulto specialist http://www.bultacouk.com

It's fair to say I think that most 80s bikes have footrests much higher than todays bikes. As you have said, lowering them, as well as moving them rearwards slightly, gives you a riding position of standing in the bike, not on top of it and bent over the bars. Not only does this give a feeling of greater stability and enable you to balance better, it also shifts rider weight back a bit putting more weight over the rear wheel. It's definitely a worthwhile mod, especially for taller riders when rebuilding an old bike - I've done it on my Ossas and Majesty. Went a bit too far on the Majesty and had to move them forwards again a tad as the front wheel wouldn't stay on the ground. Problem is it means welding on new mounts and if the bike has been rebuilt, as yours has, it is going to mess up the frame.

Don't let anyone misguide you into thinking that a 125 is underpowered and no good for trials. If they were they wouldn't make them. A 125 GasGas will pull me fine (as will a 125 Scorpa) and I don't get any change out of 17 stone these days,so if it will pull my weight it has enough power for anything but the most serious of sections - ie; sections that are beyond most club riders ability regardless of the bike. All you have to accept is that they haven't as much power as a 200/250 etc. so they have to be ridden accordingly - correct gear, choice of line etc. is more critical than on a bigger bike. On a bigger bike a handful of throttle in a bigger gear can get you out of trouble sure, but only if you are good enough to use it. Chances are that if you have got into that sort of mess in the first place you're not going to get out of it regardless. Ross Danby, one of the top youth riders, is in our centre. He rides a 125 Pro and has no problems whatsoever. I've watched him in our trials. Does things on it that adults can't do on 250s, 280s, 290s 300s whatever. Never looks short on power. At club level, trials isn't about having loads of power anyway - if anything it is a hinderence, will get you into trouble and will cost you marks unless you know how to use it. From what you've said it sounds like your bike has a problem as it shouldn't die when you snap the throttle. The biggest of engines will do that if something is wrong. As it is nigh on impossible to diagnose from descriptions as it could be anything, you're best bet is to take it to a local dealer who knows what they are doing, let them try the bike and ask their opinion - or even take a trip to Shirty's as I am sure they would be helpful and they have the ground to try the bike there, so should be able to reproduce your fault and diagnose it. If I were you I'd try and sort the problem. Learn to ride a 125 well and you will be able to go on to ride anything after that. It will teach you to think about a section more, plan lines better, pick gears better and give you better throttle control in the long run - all of which are the essence of a good trials rider. Also save you money from changing bike for the wrong reason...... which is always a good thing Hope you get it sorted

Reason I don't use tubed IRC is because I just can't get on with them. I've tried them on my Ossa and on the tubed type spare wheel I had for my TYZ. Outcome was the same each time. The sidewalls are too soft and the wheel rolls in the tyre on cambers and when accelerating out of a turn up a bank. Increasing the pressure to eradicate this means no grip. I couldn't run it at anything less than 5psi, otherwise it would roll, although even at lower pressures it still wouldn't grip on either bike. Earlier this year I had a go on someone else's Majesty at the section I was observing on. I rode it over some angled rocks and straight away could feel the rear wheel wanted to slide down the rocks, not because of lack of grip, but because it felt like it was rolling in the tyre. Without looking at the tyre I said to him - this is an IRC tubed tyre isn't it? Yes he said. When he asked me how I knew and I told him he said now I'd mentioned it he had experienced it too, he just hadn't realised it was the tyre. It behaved in exactly the same way as those I have tried in the past. That is why I use the tubeless type IRC. For me they work better than anything else. Now I'm not saying that the IRC tubed is no good, it just doesn't work for me, but I know other people who are happy with them and don't seem to experience the same problem. Come to think of it, they are a fair bit lighter than me........ (and my Majesty riding mate)

It's like every other form of motorsport world championship. It's been totally sanitised for the benefit of TV, sponsors, sponsor's guests and whatever else you can think of. What, have the bikes ridden in muddy conditions..?? Oh no sir, can't have mud covering up the sponsors decals now, can we, or mudguards turned brittle with freezing temeratures snapped off at the slightest touch, sponsors decals crunched into the ground..... You only have to look at what the FIA have done to the world rally championship and the UK round in particular to see how things have progressed. Once a truly great event, the RAC rally ran for five days in November, one of the toughests events on the calender. First they reduce WRC events to 3 days with a greatly reduced mileage, with some stages driven twice. Then they tell the UK sorry, you can't have it in November anymore, the conditions are too extreme. Can't have rally cars sliding about on ice or sloshing through all those muddy British forests. If you want to keep the rally you'll have to run it in the summer. So the date was brought forward. Naturally the British summer took a hand and the weather was just as bad as it would have been in November. Poetic justice. OK, rant over. Sorry but your post just struck a chord. I remember the old style format of WTC from 70s and 80s, good traditional events in all conditions, with no indoor circus to get in the way, and when the British round was held, good centre riders could compete and ride alongside their heroes in a field of slightly more than a dozen riders..... Progress isn't always improvement I think.

Depends on your reason for wanting to use a tubeless tyre, but you can fit a tubeless tyre on the original tubed Sherpa rim without any problem by using a tube. Tyre doesn't need modifying in any way won't slip or fall off the rim. Still use the security bolts though. I have used an IRC tubeless tyre on my standard Ossa wheel for years and it has never fallen off the rim. The reason I use the tubeless IRC is because I have found it is the tyre that gives the best grip, not specifically because I want a tubless tyre. I also have one fitted to a Yamaha Majesty rear wheel, again, no problems. We have fitted an IRC and a Michelin tubeless to my mate's 72 Sherpa, no problems. If you want a tubless rim because you feel that it will give better performance without a tube in it you can buy tubeless rims, 36 hole, but when I last looked into it they were about