eddie1

In addition to cleaning the carb, check the o ring on the bottom of the choke (item 30 in this diagram) is in good condition. When I bought my 2003 200 it ran similar to yours. I stripped the carb and blew out the jets also finding the o ring had gone. This was replaced and the carb rebuilt it then ran fine. http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/dellorto_diagrams/phbh-l_parts_list.htm

I should have added that the front pipe can also get blocked. I poured petrol into mine and threw it on a bonfire. That seemed to work ok but I did the same for the silencer and ended up having to cut both ends of the silencer open.Inside I found the holes in the baffle plates completely blocked by carbon. Good luck

I don't think there is any difference. My front pipe is marked up fm250 and is a 200. What does make a big difference is to make sure that the back silencer is clear. If that is blocked it strangles the bike.

Unusual but worth checking is if there is heavy corrosion between the flywheel and the engine casing. I had one that was locked solid and only found this when I went to take the flywheel off to strip the engine right down. Easy fix but wish I had checked before I took it out of the frame.

This one is dirty but not bent

It should be straight. The rod is bent.

I am fairly certain that you do not have enough free play at your brake lever. You need to adjust the rod to give more play. What is happening at the moment is that the brake is always slightly on. When the bike is cold the pads do not quite touch the disc but once you start to use it the pads and disc warm up and the pads start to bind. Once this happens it is only a short time before the brake will fully lock the wheel until it cools down again.

Have you pushed fluid up from the clutch cover bleed nipple to the cylinder now that the piston is fully back? When you do keep going until no more air bubbles come out. If it is still no good take the piston out of the master cylinder and inspect the seal. There is a repair kit that consists of the piston and seal but this is about 1/2 the cost of a new complete unit so a question as to which is the best option. With the top cover off and the cylinder working it should definitely squirt up if it is working correctly. Good luck

Make sure that the piston in the master cylinder is fully returning. It could be that the leaver position screw is restricting it or like happened to mine the return spring had snapped and prevented the piston completing its closed stroke and therefore stopped it priming. With the cap off you should be able to see the piston moving backwards and forwards as you move the lever. If it is working correctly you will need to be careful or it will squirt liquid up. If nothing is happening something is restricting the piston or less likely the master cylinder piston seals are completely worn. If there is air in the system by tapping the lever repeatedly for a very short stroke, barely operating the piston, you should see bubbles rising up. If the hydraulics were working it would have separated the case from the engine.

Nothing worse than a smelly helmet, it's very embarrassing. Not sure what type you have got but I have the wolfsport airflow. The cheek pieces clip in and at first I did not think that the lining could be removed but my friend said it could. You can pull it out by pulling the the rubber type seal away. The first time putting it back in almost seemed impossible but after that it goes in very easy. It might be worth marking which part of the lining is the front.

I jet wash the bike on the lawn with water only, no cleaning fluid. Once it has rained or the mower has been over it there is no noticeable debris.

I've always had good success pushing fluid back from the bleed nipple on the case back up to the master cylinder. If the case is off make sure that the slave cylinder is full of fluid and the piston pushed right in. Not sure if this is necessary but it must help. First make sure that the adjuster screw on the master cylinder is wound out so that the piston is not engaged. Open the bleed nipple on the case enough and push fluid through with a syringe. Watch the fluid as it comes out in the master cylinder. You should see bubbles come out and eventually clear. You may need to stop and empty the reservoir a couple of times. Lock the nipple and try it. If it is still not bled, with the nipple still closed keep tapping the lever so that the piston makes tiny movements. Sometimes you will see tiny air bubbles come out as you watch the fluid in the cylinder.. If it is still not right repeat the process. I've never had any success bleeding any hydraulics on a gas gas by pumping the lever and opening the bleed nipple. The pushing the fluid back with a syringe method has worked for me on the clutch and front brake. The rear brake has been another matter although I have eventually found a method that works for me on that as well. Good luck

Another vote for rockshocks. Cheap and easy to rebuild which is good for me as I have bent the damper rod twice if falls. Always had great service

This is the page out of the owners manual.

After restoring my Fantic it initially ran fine but quickly developed a carb fault. I changed a couple of jets but concluded that I needed a new carb. I figured that as vitually the same type of delloro carb was fitted to recent gas gas bikes then there could not be a lot wrong with the actual carb just the fact that the one on the bike was 35 years old. I fitted a new dellorto which was jetted and had the correct slide for the Fantic. It run great straight away and still going strong 2 years later. I've no experience of the OKO but I would suggest it is a replacement rather than an upgrade nothing wrong with the dellorto unless it is worn. Note Dellortos can be bought cheap on E bay but the standard jets and slide are not suitable for the 200. i know dellorto uk and inmotion will supply correctly set up carbs but cost a little more.

I use a syringe with a short piece of tight fitting plastic pipe between it and the bleed nipple. It pushes fluid and air up through the system and you see the air come out in the reservoir. I've found the gas gas pro rear brake to be very tricky to get right and after lots of furs flying around the garage found a way that works for me. I push the pistons back into the caliper. Unbolt the brake cylinder and twist it so that the pipe going in and out of it are about level. I then push the fluid up to the reservoir from the bleed nipple using the syringe watching all the air come outin the reservoir. The new pros have the res on top of the cylinder so they are likely to be easier to bleed but I don't know.

I have one of these - It is my first trials bike bough cheap with several problems.. If it is running well just put fuel in it and enjoy. I softened mine with a flywheel weight and head spacer. Main issues I have had are with the clutch and waterpump but these are common to all Pro models. Jim Snells, how to fix videos, are great should you have any issues. Keep an eye on the gearbox oil level as there is less than 400cc in there and it lubes the main bearings as well. I use ATF and pre mix at 70:1 with good quality fully synthetic oil but know some who use 50:1 and others 100:1 so...

The parts should fit all the 35mm marzorchi forks fitted to the fantic twinshocks. I believe it is the progressive springs that are part of the magicals set up. The full set up would be the progressive springs, adjustable spacers and the adjustable fork caps. The adjustable spacers make it easier to get the initial set up right. The adjustable caps make it easier for you to make changes to the set up on the move. The springs are shorter than standard - much shorter than the original single pinch bolt 200 forks. This means that without buying the adjustable spacer you will need to modify/ make your own spacers with tubing and or washers but it can be done and the resulting fork action will be the same. I bought the springs and the adjustable spacers but keep thinking about the caps as they look so pretty. The original springs on my bike were much too soft either through age or my weight. The adjustable spacers allowed me to easily set the preload on the springs and it is also easy to take the cap off and make any adjustment in the garage. Fork oil weight also has a big influence on how the forks feel. I settled on 10 wt. after a bit of experimenting. I am a clubman rider and I am happy with the set up which gives me a stable and predictable fork action.

I got my progressive springs from here; http://www.francetrialclassic.com/en/23-shocks-forks

Frame and model number are on the front of the frame just below headstock

I am sure that there are easier ways but this is what I did.I Cut the back and front of the silencer off with a hacksaw having made sure that I scribed a clear line on them for alignment afterwards. The silencer was almost completely blocked in the front section so got a blow lamp on it for a while and then wire brushed the holes in the baffle plate until they were clean. The silencer was then welded back up and resprayed Having seen the amount of carbon in there and how solid it was I am glad that I opened it.

You should be able to get any info you want from this page inc. manuals and a how to do video. http://www.trialspartsusa.com/youtube.html

I have registered a 1980 Fantic this year with the aid of a dating letter from Bill Pye, which DVLA accepted. For me the whole process was very straight forward. Give Bill Pye a ring as that is the best way to contact him. 01642 722378. You will need form 55A from DVLA. MOT and insurance on the frame number The fantic will be exempt from type approval etc. as it is a trials bike which you must state on the form. good luck

Looks quite tidy. With regards to pick up check that the rear silencer is not blocked. It has baffle plates in there with smallish holes that get blocked up with carbon. You will need to cut the rea rand front of the can off to do this, re welding them afterwards. A quick test is to remove the silincer and see if low speed pick up improves. I always thought that a blocked silencer would have hit top end performance but it was actually more noticeable at the bottom end. Side panels - I bought some new plastic copies off ebay but have been disappointed as they became brittle very quickly , the mounting lugs broke off first then one shattered with a minimal contact. I am going to try the metal ones on e bay next hoping they last longer. The original tank should buff up fairly well with t cut and a buffing wheel, although it will not be as shinny as fiberglass it will be far more robust. Give it a go it costs nothing but elbow grease. Carb settings I don't know as I have the 200, do a search of google as it is amazing what info comes up. Good luck.

10w oil 52mm from the top of aluminum body. You will need to bleed the unit when you assemble it I have bent the damper rod on mine a couple of times causing the shock to stick. Cheap spare damper and seals from Rocksocks. They sent me an assembly sheet but its lost somewhere in the garage. good luck