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About mrturtle

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    Beta Evo factory

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  1. Decent trials tyre

    I tried a mitas rear tyre once and it wouldnt hold air for 1 full lap, also it wasnt very good on wet rocks. (compared to a michelin)..
  2. What brake pads

    Galfer for me all day long 👍
  3. Beta Evo Spring swaps

    if the tube is well stuck and the 'coat hanger'method does not shift it, put the fork cap on fully without the "conical" spacer and press down hard repeatedly until you feel it shift upto the cap. Worked well for me when trying to hook it out failed.👍
  4. TechnoMousse???

    no wouldnt even consider one for enduro.
  5. 2 stroke header sealant

    high temp. silicone sealer
  6. BOOTS!

    I got some stylmartin over christmas for a bargain but i was only looking because my forma boulders have split on the stiched outer seam in less than 12 months. Very happy with stylmartins far superior quality and protection,:also the liner has kept my feet dry with and even without sealskinz on so far. Only negative for me (at first try on) was they felt much stiffer and uncomfy around the ankle compared to forma which where very comfy from new and is possibly the only good thing about em 🤔
  7. X-TRIAL Le Mans

    Looked like Gelaberts may of got hit by the handlebars. Bou did the same on that section but kept hold and got away with it.
  8. Rebuild info and a future investment

    Sandifords off road is just up the road from you in Burnley.
  9. Beta evo newer plastics 2009

    Dont know about the tank covers but i fitted a 2014 rear mudguard to my old 2010 evo. Easy to fit....All you need to do is drill one hole at the front of the newer mudguard where the tab is.
  10. 4rt steaming like a kettle

    pressure test the cooling system and cap? ignore that sorry just re read your post
  11. When to buy a new bike??

    Dont know where you are but Inch perfect trials n Lancs are holding a free open test day on the 26th of Jan.
  12. Bought a new 17' factory 300! What does it need?

    so are you saying the sherco is more crash friendly ?
  13. Need to true my wheels this week.

  14. Installing the crank back into engine casing.

    m6 bolt torque into aluminium is usually around 7-10 Nm depending on application. 8Nm is what i used in a star pattern. If you heat up the crankcase enough you will find the main bearings drop into the case and fully seat with no other force. when you have done this heat the bearing in the case and get it hot enough so you can put the frozen crank in the same way without force. Just make sure you have the conrod in the correct place! heat the other main bearing/ case just before you close up the halves and it should go together with no drama. Once you have them together with bolts in snug, tap either side of the crank with deadblow or hyde mallet etc until it turns freely then torque the bolts and check the crank rotates nice and free. HTH jason
  15. Installing the crank back into engine casing.

    Bearings/crank in the freezer, warm crankcase evenly with hot air gun. drop the bearings inti case make sure they are seated. warm the bearings/casings with hot air gun again and fit the crank and then the other casing. may need a small tap on either side of the crank when the casings come together and then recheck casing bolt torques. works for me everytime