pauls320

Sorry to hear that this was indeed the problem. If I remember correctly, the later ones had a larger bottom out bumper on the shock shaft...? Depending on your ride weight you may want to adjust the spring a littler stiffer and/or possibly modify the header pipe,where it tags the swing arm, before trying out a new head. Hope you get her sorted out

Be a good idea to inspect the o-ring grooves in the back side of the head for cracks. The exhaust mount bolts to the head stay and if the suspension is bottomed out it tags the header pipe and levers against the cylinder head , have seen it fracture the head in the mentioned location ..hopefully yours is okay

Good stuff, okay too far away then. Trials suspensions are generally not as sophisticated as enduro/mx , has the oil leaked out of your shock, possibly just rebound screw adjuster is wound all out?

TRP and the Ohlins are both great options and they work well (have both) but realistically the stock Olle if its not sacked out, is all most of us really need for trail, clubman stuff. I do have a very nice Olle hanging on wall. You wouldnt happen to be in Chinada would you? ? (That is an interesting rear disc guard you got there)

Possible issues with water pump not circulating coolant ?

Sad, would inquire if the dealer and import could make this right and exchange the bike for another, that is hopefully...non-defective or even take it back and return funds. Then they can try to fix it at their leisure. For goodness sakes a guy buys a brand new bike to avoid all this nonsense. Good luck

Its a brand new bike with only one hour on the clock, Is the dealer that you purchased it from unwilling to help you out or are they just too far away??

Its not uncommon for the weld to let go on the inner end of the shifter shaft on this model. Easy repair, just remove clutch.cover/clutch and slide out'n reweld. There was an older thread on here. Best of luck

May just need some clutch adjustment to remove some excess ''play'' at the hand lever and slave cylinder actuated arm on the block? Also, sometimes the little steel clutch lever (on engine) gets bent and needs a tweek back to correct angle.

Its really shocking that such an obvious flaw can get pushed out of the factory and then get past a dealer final assembly and PDI ....Sad

Until the last few years the 200 used a 125 bottom end, so I dont think a 250 top is plug and play for your machine

I am guessing the ''new model'' will consist of a different graphics package (obviously)and a diaphragm clutch.

If yours is indeed not sealing anymore, you will probably have to dig it out the old one and source some Viton rubber in same thickness ( old one may have shrunk a little) and punch out a new one from the stock.

You could always turn a shouldered aluminum spacer if you have a lathe or have a machine shop do it ,to put it back into desired thread range.

1:The rubber seal under the choke ...plunger.., can decompose or get hard and fail to seat causing rich running condition even with choke ''off''. 2: Many parts are getting hard to source. It is still a good machine, good luck