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About peterb

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    Vertigo ICE 300

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  • Location
    Auckland NZ
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6,578 profile views
  1. a smoky TR280i

    Here are a couple of photos of the inner plate puller. Originally made for a Scorpa (Yamaha motor) flywheel puller, then modified for the Ossa using the inner 3 holes. The BCD, not accurately measured, is 42.0mm, check your stator hole placement. M5 bolt length = 70mm. Hard to see the third inner hole on the photo. (Two sets of 3 holes) Plate is 6mm. Hope this helps. You should be able to get someone to make up one of these. With the centre screw puller, make sure it does not damage the M10 thread at the end of the crank, I use a nut in between. Bye, Peter B.
  2. a smoky TR280i

    You mentioned thick transmission oil that get's stuck on gears. We always used ATF Dexron III on these (and many others) bikes, which is certainly not thick transmission oil. Bye, Peter B.
  3. a smoky TR280i

    The 2013 motors have a tighter tolerance between the inner plate and crank case and need to be extracted reasonably squarely. To remove the inner plate, remove the 3 stator bolts and hang the stator out of the way, then all of the plate bolts too. You need 3 long M5 allen bolts and a steel plate with a centre bolt, and 3 holes that match the stator bolt circle diameter (BCD) Use this set up to carefully extract the plate. I'll have a look for my extractor set up and see if I can get a photo of it on here. Some measurements too. Bye, Peter B.
  4. a smoky TR280i

    I have worked on a couple of Ossa motors that smoked a lot, both had the following problem. On your motor on the crankshaft LHS, the needle roller main bearing runs on a thin steel sleeve which is a shrink fit on the 25 diameter crankshaft. The sleeve was under stress and ended up with a hairline crack, hard to see, that allowed gearbox oil to be drawn into the crank case. The sleeves are not available if yours is cracked, but you might be lucky and perhaps the oil seal has failed on the RHS of the crankshaft. If there is a hair crack on the sleeve, you can always fit the later model LHS inner plate with ball race, that runs on the 25 diameter crankshaft, so the sleeve needs to be extracted - easy if it is split. If the RHS seal has failed, which would be uncommon, then you have no option but to replace the main bearing and seal. Yes, it is a very lengthy job, and needs some setting up to put back together, but it is possible. Bye, Peter B.
  5. Clutch Help 4rt 2008

    You can always check the oil type, mineral oil has a definite oily feel, slippery. DOT 4 has more of a watery much less slippery feel. It would be unusual for someone to change the master cylinder kit to mineral and then the slave cylinder seals too. Bye, Peter B.
  6. 250 or 300 Vertical? Custom maps?

    Hi Ricki, the Ice or Camo 300 with a low compression insert works really well. It takes the edge off the low end response and makes for a more relaxing ride up the becks. This size motor feels slower to respond than the Vertical 250. I haven't tried a Vertical 300 with a low comp insert, but imagine it would perform similar. Changing the inserts does not take very long. The 300 would be my choice from the 2 engine sizes. Bye, Peter B.
  7. Which Transmission oil

    Well researched and written peterh, I also have used Mohican ATF Dex III to good effect with similar change times.
  8. Which Transmission oil

    Hello sveson, the Spanish factories tend to use a fully synthetic 75W oil in the clutch/gearbox. The "W" stands for winter. Various companies can supply this oil, I am not sure what is available in Sweden, but some of the more familiar ones are GRO, Rock oil and Castrol. I have used ATF for well over 25 years in all sorts of bikes without any problem, always ATF rated to Dexron III. All of the Jotagas here run with ATF. Is it possible that you have had water in the gearbox? Although not a common wear point on these bikes, the water pump shaft/seal may have worn. Bye, Peter B.
  9. Piston slap confirmation

    Thats good information woody, you've had Bultaco's for a while then. The keyway ideally needs a repair job though probably not what you want to do right now. After fitting/locking in a new key, you could try using a Nord Lock washer under the crank nut, if you can find one with the right dimensions. I've used these with great success on other bikes, it is like 2 interlocking washers that lock in two directions. These guys have them down your way: https://www.hi-tensilebolt.com.au/product-category/washers/nord-lock-washers/ Bye, Peter B .
  10. Piston slap confirmation

    I have 2 Sherpa's, both have an aluminium basket. At this stage, I'd check the flywheel if the crankshaft nut is tight. I had a similar sounding problem on my bike, that was the result of wear on the RHS parallel crankshaft, fixed temporarily with a special loctite, I think it was silver Loctite, whatever it was it could accept a clearence of up to 20 thou or so. Even though the crank nut was tight, the flywheel could still rotate on the shaft and sounded like your bike. 7 thou is a lot but that sort of clearance would make a ring a ding ding noise, not a heavy clump. Check the flywheel. You may be able to hold the magneto flywheel and then try to see if you can rock the RHS flywheel. Odly enough, your bike hardly makes any ringing noises. Could also be the primary chain, they never lasted too long before needing replacement. Bye, Peter B.
  11. Piston slap confirmation

    Hey Tony27, you got to put oil in your Sherco fuel!.
  12. Piston slap confirmation

    Can you supply the piston bore clearence 3/4 of the stroke length up, on the inlet and exhaust side. The noise does not sound so much like piston slap, but more like the right side flywheel is loose on it's parallel shaft, or the primary chain is shot. It doesn't sound like a big end failure either. Bye, Peter B.
  13. Montesa 248 forks

    Hi Teaboy, 200ml each leg 7 spec fork oil, or 10 would be fine if unable to get 7. Here is a link to an owners manual. Bye, PeterB. https://teflonmike.craywiki.co.uk/0_Lo_100_Library_005_Cota_Book.htm
  14. bultaco model ?

    Were those UK tank/seat units made by Hommerlite? I remember them being light blue and silver and prone to dents when you dropped your bike. Rustynuts, your bike looks really nice, I hope you get it all sorted out soon. Bye, Peter B.
  15. Swingarm Linkage Question

    When you get new bearings and steel bushes, assemble with a lot of waterproof grease and fit an extra O ring to each of the 6 bushes, such that a tight fitting O ring comes up against the shoulder part of the bush. After 1 1/2 yrs use in wet conditions, there is no wear. Getting the last bolt undone is a nuisance, but with the rear brake lever removed, you can just to say get the short end of an allen key in at the bolt, been meaning to grind one a bit shorter to help. Also managed to get a 1/2" drive Torx bit to fit the socket screw head (T45 I think) which helps too.I don't have any 1/2" hex drives. Pretty sure that the new 2018 rocker has a different geometry to the older bikes. I rode a 2018 model which feels like it sits up a tad higher at the back and is easier to bounce the back wheel around than on my Ice 300. Bye, Peter B.