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About peterb

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    Advanced Member
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  • Bike
    Vertigo ICE 300
  • Club

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  • Location
    Auckland NZ
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  1. I have both original Bultaco silencers at home, the bigger one is definitely quieter and feels as though there is more low end power with this unit. The slimline "banana" silencer sounds good but the performance is less on a 325 Sherpa. Bye, Peter B.
  2. Hi drca, you can access the 2 O rings from the outside. Just need to remove the gearbox sprocket circlip, sprocket then use pliers to twist and turn the sleeve directly behind the sprocket and remove the sleeve. Makes sense to make sure the weepage is not just from carb overflow first as lineaway mentioned. Bye, Peter B.
  3. Yes you can. To get to the kickstart seal, tip the bike over to the left side and remove the clutch case, leaving the water pump hoses intact. Pry out the seal and replace. Hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like the oil is weeping out from the gearbox output shaft. Invariably, it is not the seal that is passing, but rather one or both of the 2 O rings that are placed behind the output shaft sleeve. The output shaft has a push fit sleeve over it, that the oil seal runs on. The sleeve can be twisted and pulled off with pliers. Usually, one O ring comes away with the sleeve, inside a recess, the other O ring (25 x 1mm from memory) is likely on the shaft. This is usually the source for leaks, but definitely change the oil seal anyway, they don't cost much. Bye, Peter B.
  4. I am pretty sure that the 250 has a smaller crankcase mouth than the 325, and that the 250 has a smaller BCD for the cylinder bolts so, fairly sure the swap will not work. Bye, Peter B.
  5. G'day Dean, hope you can get the Porsche finished so you can have more time on the bike. Bye, Peter B.
  6. No, do not disconnect the rotor bolts, and certainly not the brake hose. We always remove the disc plastic protector when removing the rear wheel, makes it easy to install. As you remove the wheel spindle/axle, hold the wheel with your right hand, unhook the chain over the sprocket and let it hang over the left side of the swinging arm, then swap hands, so now holding the wheel with your left hand with the wheel slightly higher than the axle holes, you can now remove the caliper from the top of the disc by gently wiggling it so it doesn't catch on the rotor bolts - you'll soon see what the guys mean, don't stretch the brake hose just be carefull there. With that M5 silencer bolt, once you have removed the broken piece there is enough aluminium around that area for the hole to take an M6 thread, just be carefull not to go too deep, measure the depth of the hole when you get the broken piece out - use a new drill bit for this, unless it is easily unscrewed. Bye, Peter B.
  7. Hi chudder, the fan operates from a temp sensor in the coolant system. There is another temp sensor for the fuel/air calculation in the outlet of the airbox, it is quite delicate being a glass cased thermistor type, but these don't usually fail. Most problems are with the temp sensor connections, check these are not corroded or loose. This temp sensor is in a plastic push-in housing located through two rubber prongs ending up as a tight fit into the airbox outlet. You can remove the plastic case and very carefully clean the sensor with a tissue. You may need to take the bike to be checked out if this doesn't work. Bye, Peter B.
  8. Have you checked for a spark? Is the plug sooty black? We run Ossas with spark plugs 2 heat ranges hotter, std plug from memory is an NGK BPR6ES, you can use an NGK BPR4ES, or better still, the Iridium equivalent. If the spark is ok, is the plug getting wet? Was the TPS set up when the new fuel pump and throttle body were fitted? Incidentally, why did you need a new throttle body. Bye, Peter B.
  9. Been a year or two now since getting the motor out, was not a massive problem to get back in. As imex says, remove the reed block, tie the shock and swinging arm out of the way and remove the rear brake lever. Pretty sure I replaced the motor with the cylinder head off, yes it is tight to get at the cylinder head torx screws, but you can access them with a Beta Tools (from Italy, not the same as Beta bikes) torx key, they have a very short angled head to get at the screw plus have a ball end torx drive at the other end which comes in handy. I made a stand to drop the back end of the frame onto to make it easier to fit the motor in. Bye, Peter B.
  10. The EP90 would create a lot of clutch drag. Best off using an ATF rated to Dexron III, 600ml is correct. The clutch case has "750ml" cast into it though 600ml was always sufficient. Bye, Peter B.
  11. Hi Dan, I don't have the torque figures with me at present. The centre bolt is only an M5 cap screw with a vent hole drilled through so should not be overly tightened as they can be sheared off. Do not use a ball end allen key here. When assembling this, use a very small dab of loctite blue on the threads. The clutch adjustment is a 3 position spring pressure plate, standard setting is on 1, if your clutch begins to slip in the higher gears under load, then go to position 2. This adjustment would not cause a rattle. Is the noise a definate rattle, like a GG clutch? or is it a different noise, like something clicking or catching. Bye, Peter B.
  12. Hi Dan, what year is the bike and roughly how many hours has the motor done? Vertigos are not unduly noisey from the clutch area, like say on a GG clutch, if the noise has become worse over time then either something has worn or come loose. Two areas to look at, the clutch centre bolt is an M5 like the GG, check this has not come loose. Behind the bolt is a machined washer, check the washer has not fractured from overtightening and "let go" The other possibility is the kickstart idle gear, this has a stub shaft that runs in a narrow needle roller, check this for play. Bye, Peter B.
  13. Or 2 stroke?
  14. There were many problems with the Ducati systems on the GG trials bikes, and like petert above, we replaced quite a number with Kokusan and never looked back. Most of the problems I have seen were with the regulator, the aluminium cased unit, which if you look at the green potting underneath, you may find a brown discoloured over heated area which invariably is a sign of a component that has cooked. The regulator would need replacing. There were two types, identifiable by having a black or a blue connector. I think one was for the 300, I don't know which colour though. Are you able to borrow another regulator to try out? If you are in the UK, then GG UK should be able to help with this part. Good luck. Bye, Peter B.
  15. Buongiorno Guido, most, if not all of the current 2T trial motors use this type of fixing screw to hold a plastic plug in place, to the inner side of each crankshaft flywheel. The flywheels are machined opposite the crank pin to reduce weight there, in order to provide a balancing effect. As the steel is machined away, the volume removed is replaced with the lighter weight plastic so as to maintain maximum primary compression. Bye, Peter B.