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peterb

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About peterb

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Previous Fields

  • Bike
    Vertigo ICE 300

Profile Information

  • Location
    Auckland NZ
  • Gender
    Male

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6,274 profile views
  1. Silencer repack

    Hi bondy, not many replies here! Only repack if the exhaust note has become noisy. I've used both the pad type and loose (fibreglass type insulation), both were ok. Bye, Peter B.
  2. Ossa TR300i 2013 fan won’t start, boils

    Hi xull, Yes, the thermistor is at the rear of the top of the head. 2 wires exit this which run into a dual connector to the left of the voltage regulator, you can measure the resistance here, I just checked one, it is 2.96 K ohms (2,900 ohms) at ambient, which is a freezing cold 17C right now (winter in Auckland). If this is ok, then most likely to be the connectors to the ECU, or a broken wire. If coolant is blowing out straight away from a cold start, either the head O rings are leaking or the head has cracked. Bye, Peter B.
  3. Ossa TR300i 2013 fan won’t start, boils

    Hi xull, the Ossa uses a thermistor to sense coolant temperature, which is threaded into the head. These alter resistance according to temperature. They are not known to fail, but it is always possible. One of the problems with these bikes has been the wiring connectors, especially to the ECU. If there is corrosion there, don't scrape it off as the ECU pins are gold plated, best to use a contact cleaner spray such as Wurth type OL, works very well. After everything has been cleaned, apply a contact or dielectric grease to the connectors. I don't remember what the resistance value is at ambient temp but measure your temp sensor with an ohm meter and check for this same value along the cables/connectors back to the ECU. Does the coolant over pressure and exit the radiator straight away from cold or after a few minutes of running. Bye, Peter B.
  4. Bultaco Aftermarket Triple Clamps.

    Hi fourex, you can use a pair of Alpina yokes that has the bar mounts directly over the headstock, but, they do not have the 2 degree stanchon offset like the Sherpa ones, which works well for me, sharper steering, and they set the stanchons further apart so you need to machine up a longer spacer for the front wheel axle. Bye, Peter B.
  5. 1994 GasGas JT25 Contact

    Hi Patrick, the standard carb would be a DellOrto PHBL 26. You should be able to pick up a throttle assy and exhaust pipe and silencer from a long time GG dealer in the states. Bye, Peter B.
  6. GasGas 300 Keihin PWK 28mm.

    Hi fourex, I ran my laptop through a restart which then disabled my TC account and have only now got back in through the signing in after a TC password reset. Yes, I am very sure the needle is a GJH, used on various GG 321 and Pro 300 from 1999 till 2010, with a 128 main and 35 pilot. Needle clip second off the bottom. I agree, the Keihin table indicates the G to be leaner than the J from 1/4 to 3/4 but, the taper of the G is 2 deg 26 mins vs 3 deg for the J, you can see the difference when you hold the two together, which allows more fuel to pass with the G, the fuelling feels richer. The std J would always knock under load, the GJH cured this and provided a more controllable response at low revs. Hope this helps, bye, Peter B.
  7. GasGas 300 Keihin PWK 28mm.

    Yes, a GJH with a standard slide works well, a bit more controllable at lower rpm's and it prevents the pinging/knocking with the std set up. Bye, Peter B.
  8. GasGas 300 Keihin PWK 28mm.

    For the 300 only, I have always used a GJH needle, slightly richer from pilot to mid range than the JJH. If you can't get one in Oz, Allens in the UK have them. Bye, Peter B.
  9. Replacing rear spoke?

    There may be two different lengths of short spoke (and the long one also) that are used depending on which side of the hub you are replacing spokes. Have a look on the parts list to see if there is a difference between the left and right side short spokes. Bye, Peter B.
  10. Bultaco Model 27

    Hi nzpeterb, it's peterb here from NZ! I had a new original Bultaco bake lever just like the one you are after for years, then used it for a BSA B40 that is now parked up in the Hamilton Motorcycle centre, in Hamilton. If you were stuck, you could contact someone there to ask about that. Can't help with a prop stand. Bye, Peter B.
  11. Owners manual 2009 anyone?

    Hi Bert, if the disc bolt has not been loctited into the hub, you may be able to unscrew it with a scriber. If it is unable to be moved, then you need to drill it out very carefully and run an M6 x1.0 tap through the hole to recover the thread. To drill the bolt out, remove the disc, precisely centrepunch the bolt in the middle, drill into the bolt squarely with a very sharp 5.0mm diameter drill, the correct size for tapping an M6 thread. Sometimes, all of the bolt is removed without damaging the thread, in this case you don't need an M6 tap. If some of the bolt is left in after drilling, then run the tap through carefully to remove any left over bolt. Some guys like to use "Easiouts" which grip the broken bolt (after being drilled to a particular size) and have a left hand thread that bites into the bolt and can unscrew the broken bolt. Sometimes, the hardened Easiout can shear off and this is even harder to remove. Good luck, Peter B.
  12. Gearbox oil

    Hi Vinnie, 75W is a winter 75 grade of oil, which has a low viscosity, it is not a high viscosity oil like EP90 for example. The 75W is fine for your bike, another fine oil to use is a much less expensive ATF oil rated to Dexron III, which I have used for well over 25 years on all sorts of trial bikes. Bye, Peter B.
  13. Trials Bike Repairs

    Try to get hold of alspan, this is Al the Spanner, totally brilliant with trial bike repairs and a thoroughly good bloke, lives close to Durham. Bye, Peter B.
  14. Softer Dellorto carb spring?

    Cut off 4 to 5 coils from the original, always worked in the past. Bye, Peter B.
  15. Shifting issues

    Problem is very likely to be the selector stop bolt that will have sheared, you can't see it on the drawing above but you need to remove the clutch basket to get to this and will need an M20 x 2.0 pitch bolt to use as an extractor for the centre after first removing the centre allen screw and cupped washer. When refitting the centre, do not use the screw to do this, locate the centre on the splines and tap in with a wooden drift. Bye, Peter B.
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