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Simple green is NOT safe on anodized aluminum. It is too alkaline. Just Google the question and you’ll see. I once used it on a red anodized cassette on a bike and it faded it considerably.

I use Simple Green on everything. "has a mildly alkaline pH of 8.5 to 9.5." Can that corrode anodize? I have not seen this on other bikes.

As standard, parts book lists 4 studs with nuts, 4 bolts (2 different lengths). There is an increased possibility of stripped threads in the cylinder casting with bolts, maybe,

On the anodisation? What cleaner do you use? Sounds like oxidation. Id try some t-cut, cleaner wax doesn't have much abrasive in it

Could try a maroon scotch brite pad

Just buy a new rim and get the wheel rebuilt, Its the only way its going to be great again.

There is some kind of white residue primarily on the front wheel of my 2018. It looks sort of like mineral deposits from where water dried. Detergent, Isopropyl alcohol and acetone do not remove it. A carnauba cleaner wax removes some but is way too much work for old hands. The rag with cleaner turns black so maybe it is some kind of oxidation. Is there an easy way to remove it?

Failing to see how that could possibly work, to start with the coating is on the outside surface so this bushing is designed to slide against the lower leg bore and that would make it attached to the stanchion tube. Any reason nobody ever shows the stanchion tube?

Sorry I was at work. This is pictures of my fork and my new bottom bush. It stays inside the lower legs and does not come out with the stanchions.

I have both bushes to replace the old ones and I have removed both top ones and the plastic sleeves but am struggling with removing the bottom ones. thanks Chris

Get rid of the Bing get a new carb from inmotion

Mines all nuts on studs

Should these be nut on studs are are some bolts. Right hand rear where there should be a head stay is a bolt but the others as far as I can see are nuts on studs

Hi. Just got a 199A and the throttle seems very heavy and the carb spring quite strong, stronger than I remember. Does anyone know what the free length of the spring should be, the number of turns and the wire diameter. The old twist grip is knackered. Anyone recommend a fast or slow domino right angle twistgrip and suitable cable. Thanks Tony

So what is the part number and lets see them, the photos you attached are copied from a previous post and don't show the part you report to be struggling with. If your bottom bushing is not on the stanchion tube then it's not a bottom bushing.

Seem to be the most popular boots in my area, have seen comments saying they're a bit taller than other brands Mine are at least 5 years old & I'll probably replace them with another set in the future

I have both bushes to replace the old ones and I have removed both top ones and the plastic sleeves but am struggling with removing the bottom ones. thanks Chris

What's the part number? Pretty sure that part does not exist, if it had one and you have the fork apart by now it would be obvious, it's not like fork bushings are pressed on the stanchion tube or anything. ... or here's another possibility, somebody one off customized your forks

Hi Has anyone had any luck on removing the lower bush in the lower legs of the tlr 200 forks. thanks Chris

Blasting ...

Changing the seals on my (I think) Supertrial, which has nonadjustable 36mm upside down forks; I can’t find a spec for oil anywhere, which isn’t surprising for this model. I’m guessing 5wt, and I can guess at the level based on current level, but if love to have a real reference to work from. Suggestions?

Yeah - that's the newer case, that Jim points out has the stop in a different position than my older case, w/o the recess guide. Anyway, through trial & error I found a spot that works....

Looking forward to seeing the restoration!

At least you won’t have to replace that tire…perfect condition. 😉