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I certainly still have it. I will email link (and clean out my inbox)

Hey Mark, looks like your inbox may be full, can you send over a link if you still have it available? sclay115 @ gmail.com Thanks!

How close is this to what you have? http://ossa.2y.net/ossa/onlinemanuals/ossa5speedmanual/Page124.jpg

Hi, Anyone have a wiring diagram for TR77? Looking for information on the magneto wires, I have 4: Black - Ignition Yellow - ? Green - ? Pink - ? I am assuming one is for the horn, one for lights and one for brake light. Carl.

No, the whole thing rides to low to the ground.

When my c15 had a modified original frame it had a triumph cub hub

I don't remember all of the details but I put a Bultaco Alpina rear wheel on a 1965? C15. I probably had to make wheel spacers but don't remember having to do anything else to make it fit. I also installed the Alpina forks and front wheel. As I recall, the rear Alpina brake worked well but the front was terrible. There was not a lot of forethought but the bike turned quite well.

Transmission and wet clutch oil actually, since it is not a 4-cycle engine. You are looking for a lubricant (oil) that is suited to the operating temperature you are likely to be running in. I use all season hydraulic excavator oil which is ISO46 why because I buy it in 5 gallon pails and it works as good in a motorcycle transmission as it does in a farm tractor transmission or excavator that is full of gears and wet clutches. More important is that you keep the oil clean and free of water, so change it frequently which is going to happen a lot more frequently if you are buying it at 7$ per litre and not 20$ per litre. Viscosity charts will show you where !SO46 fits relative to other lubricants. What you don't need in a manual transmission and wet clutch is multi-grade 4-stroke engine oil with friction modifiers.

Hi I found a rolling chassis of Beta zero 260 and I'm looking for the engine, or enough parts to put it together. Transmission, cylinder etc etc, Let me know what you have.... Thanks

Is there a specefic viscosity I have to use for the engine oil?

Some days nothing seems to want to work good

Easy to cook a rear brake by dragging it against the engine power, front brake not so much if you don't have pavement. Last time I had a trials bike front brake steaming hot on trials terrain was never.

The first time I used the steam cleaning trick was with the bike running on a stand while strapped to the trailer. It was the rear, and I just applied brake pressure while the wheel was turning. I could easily monitor the rotor temperature with an IR thermometer (which is totally unnecessary). Get the rotor so hot you can smell the pads cooking. More than one application may be helpful.

Yes it is an option, but The complete set of spokes and nipples costs me more than the rear wheel that i found.

P.s. dont be shy, heat them up and douse them good!

You just ride around a few minutes with that brake locked on almost skidding. Almost ends up like a steam clean. First time I ever say it done was Tommi Avala came to do a trials school/demo. Pulled a new bike out of a crate and FIXED the brakes in a few minutes.

Blow torch or do you do this on pavement?

You could just replace the spokes? Wouldn't be surprised if the 4rt spokes are a direct fit.

This is a Jotagas rear wheel with a later model rear caliper in the 'wrong' bike. It just took a load of measurements, home made spacers, a touch of filing and it lined up nicely. The front forks and clamps are 40mm Marzocchi from a Gas Gas. Stuff will generally fit but it takes a bit of searching for the measured part you think will fit, such as alternative bearings and spacers.

Trials compatible rear hub/sprocket assembly for standard (ie engine mountings not offset) '64 BSA C15 road going frame. Anyone got any suggestions?

Hi everyone! I have just purchased and old rusty 1999 315r with rusty spokes and nipples that make impossible to center the rear wheel. I found a cheap 2008 4rt rear wheel, that have different disc/sprocket bolt pattern, but will it fit into the 99’ 315r? Wich spacers/mods must have to be done? any help would be appreciated. thanks!

I guess you have never used the water trick. Which is the best way to get your brakes working in just a few minutes. Just over heat your rotors and hit them with a bucket of water. Instant sharp brakes.

Facing a similar issue, Fitted a similar case but find the splines dont protrude through enough (same as image shown above) and that I can pull the kickstart shaft out by 10mm, I could space that out with a teflon spacer but does anyone know if the RT or DT100 (or early dt175 twin shock) kickstart shaft is longer than the standard TY shaft? Or do these models have different crankcases that positions the kickstart shaft further out with the correct clearance to the clutch case? Has anyone successfully extended a kickstart shaft by cutting, welding in a new section? Looks like the kickstart shaft would have to be about 10mm longer than std TY175 to use these older cases. Thanks

Hy, maybe anybody has the same problem. My Vertigo R3 MY 2021 starts poorly when hot. When the fan was running and the engine was off longer than about 15sec. it fires up very poorly. The problem was the capacitor and the cables which look like this: hope this helps anyone BR M

....do you mean the sump guard/skid pan?